Old Fuel Pickup Tube Issue / Old BBS dead ?

[Sean B]

Hi guys - long time no talk. Hope everyone has been well. I haven't had much to say here lately, but I do come to read, especially when I have something boat-related to fix as is evidenced by my question.

Is the old / original bulletin board still functioning at all? I've been searching the active one for quite a while tonight, regarding fuel pickup tube problems, and I keep finding statements about that problem being discussed and solved "ten years ago"... but of course that implies the old board. I get an error message when I try to access it however.

My issue is my engines seem to both be sucking air instead of fuel suddenly, and considering it hit them both within minutes of each other while running, I was thinking the only common component must be the fuel pickup tube. That and I check just about everything else already, have bloody knuckles tonight to prove it. I kept reading in messages from circa 2006 - 2008 that the issue was identified and solved years ago. I gathered that it was a rolled copper tube with soldered joints that cracked open. Just trying to find the decided-upon best fix, and maybe some pics, before I tear into that next. B33 with 3208T's here.

[Tony Meola]

http://bertram31.com/bert31_fs.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Sean

I can get to the old board. If I remember right you have a 28. Not sure how they are set up, but I know on the 31 there is one pick up tube feeding both engines. An air leak in one will shut the other one right down. May not be the pick up. Try shutting off one side at the tank at a time and if one engine runs with the other side shut down then you know the leak is in the line.

Tony

[Sean B]

http://bertram31.com/bert31_fs.htm

Sean

I can get to the old board. If I remember right you have a 28. Not sure how they are set up, but I know on the 31 there is one pick up tube feeding both engines. An air leak in one will shut the other one right down. May not be the pick up. Try shutting off one side at the tank at a time and if one engine runs with the other side shut down then you know the leak is in the line.

Tony

I have an '87 33 Sportfish, but yes still single pickup tube. In fact some pics I saw here of the 31's big 2" hex nut top fitting look identical to mine:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/0ul72spjnx3ji ... 1%20PM.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I had not thought of one engine sucking air from the other's fuel system and thus one leak killing both engines. If that's true I sure don't like it much, for safety reasons. Damn after fooling with it all day and thinking about it all night, driving myself nuts over this, I just might go down to the marina and try isolating them one by one right now. Thanks for that idea to help diagnose.

The link on that page: " The old Webbbs Bulletin board is still located at: http://www.bertram31.com/bb/bbs.cgi?noframes still doesn't work for me. I don't know if the issue is my computer or not

[Sean B]

You know, when it happened, my starboard engine ran about two minutes after the port kicked off. I didn't really hear the port go down, but the starboard definitely sputter out as if it was out of fuel. Now neither will start. Damn your simple suggestion is starting to make a lot of sense to me. I already drained the racor bowls and checked with the magic colored paste for water (none), and I spent all day today priming and messing with the port side engine fuel lines. Didn't do anything to starboard except try and start it (with both fuel supply valves open).

I bet I have an air leak in the port side fuel line.

Thanks

[Rocky]

Sean,
Air to break vacuum or don't forget lack of air- I mean above fuel in tank like something crawled up inside your VENT! Just a thought to check here too.

[White Bear]

I had this maddening problem when an engine would run perfectly with 1/2 tank or more of fuel, below that it would die. Discovered a crack midway along the fuel pick-up tube that was allowing it to suck air when the fuel got below the level of the crack. Changed the pick-up and all was good.

[Carl]

Sometimes a fresh fuel line, to a new copper tube with lil screen on end going directly to bottom of tank, bypassing all else helps to cut out all possibilities from tank to point you hook up the fuel line...(racors). Switch from one side to the other to isolate.

[Skipper Dick]

Sean, several years ago, I bought a new fiberglass tank from the company that makes them out of Miami. It was the 190 gallon model and with the help of a few friends, I installed it and filled it up with gas. That was before gas went out of sight. Almost immediately, I started having problems keeping the port engine going. I checked all the hoses and clamps time and time again. I finally pulled the pick up tube that was supplied with the tank and noticed that the brazing where the tube is brazed to the head of the pick up was spotty and who ever did the brazing did not let the metal flow and there were holes in the weld. I did not have anything hot enough to melt the brazing so I used plumbers solder and filled the holes just to see if that was where the leak was. Sure enough, it solved the problem. I pulled the tube once again and took it to a welding shop and had it done right.

[Sean B]

Thank you all for the advice. I isolated fuel lines and primed both mains, one at a time.... no joy.

Now trying to get that awful contraption off the top of the tank to have a look at the pickup tube.

[Sean B]

Sean,
Air to break vacuum or don't forget lack of air- I mean above fuel in tank like something crawled up inside your VENT! Just a thought to check here too.

That was a good thought, I did check that. Pulled the fuel sender to make my own vent. Didn't work though

[Tony Meola]

Sean

Sorry that did not work. We found out the hard way about breaking the line open and loosing the other engine. Had a fuel pump go bad one day. While trying to replace it, we broke the line, then the other engine went down a few minutes later. Had us stunned until we realized what happened. Never gave it a thought until that happened.

[CaptPatrick]

Is the old / original bulletin board still functioning at all?

Sean,

Fixed! Still Read Only, but Searchable...

http://www.bertram31.com/bb/bbs.cgi?index" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Capt.Frank]

Sean,
I had similar problem years ago turned out the lid on my racors had some rot and caused air to get in. Check racors make sure they are holding fuel.

[Sean B]

Sean,

Fixed! Still Read Only, but Searchable...

http://www.bertram31.com/bb/bbs.cgi?index" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks Captain. It wasn't even readable before, I just got an error message. It works fine now.

I spent some time probing the old board on issues that were discussed long ago... and very much enjoyed reading the sharp wit of at least one ghost too!

[Sean B]

Isolating the engines didn't allow either one to start. Got the fuel pick up assembly out, and pressure tested it today at my buddy's radiator shop. It's fine. This is weird.

Going to drain the fuel lines via racor bowl drains (lowest point) and try this "smoke machine" my radiator shop buddy has. It hooks to a compressor & power, and makes smoke out of vegetable oil. If there is an air leak, that should find it.

Any advice about how much air pressure is too much for a fuel system consisting of aero quip hoses, 900 series racor, and CAT fuel hand-prime pumps? I've had this boat for 10 years now and haven't messed with any of that stuff except to change out fuel filters very occasionally, so I have resigned to buying new seal kits and rebuilding the racors and the primer pumps. But I do want to find that damn air leak first.

Was thinking maybe 20 PSI is the most I would want to do
(?)

[CaptPatrick]

Was thinking maybe 20 PSI is the most I would want to do

20 psi is a bunch... I think a constant 2psi and some soapy water will allow you find any air leak.

Br,

Patrick