Shaft movement

[Stuart Cooperrider]

Needed to true my props while the boat was out of the water this past winter. And the starboard prop required some muscle to get off. This was not work I'm comfortable doing myself. Key got jammed, etc, etc...Hammer force was involved.
Balanced props we're just put back on and the starboard prop is 1/2" furthur aft from the strut than the port. Is this within tolerances? If not, what should I be looking at to remedy this while I'm still on the hard?
Go Sox.
Thanks.
Stu

[Bob H.]

Stuart, Id check the depth of the shaft on the coupling. May not be in to the point it was in the past. Rule of thumb is shaft size gap past the strut and no more. BH

[Stuart Cooperrider]

Thanks for your reply.
So as I understand you, any gap up to the shaft diameter is okay. Even if both side aren't identical.
Thanks.

[CaptPatrick]

Stuart,

No, what Bob is saying is that the distance from the aft end of the strut tube to the forward face of the prop hub should be no more than the diameter of the shaft.

When you drove the prop off with the hammer, you also drove the shaft back & out of the transmission coupling by 1/2"...

[Stuart Cooperrider]

Thanks for the diagram Capt. Patrick. Much appreciated.
I'll adjust it at the coupling.

[Tony Meola]

http://www.waltergear.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Stuart

Carl (SIM) turned me on to this puller. It makes it easier. You fight a little getting it on until you figure it out, but I no longer take a hammer to the puller to get the Prop off.

[Stuart Cooperrider]

Thanks. I used a puller. Port came right off. Key on starboard was jammed (previous owner) to where no puller on the face of the earth would have worked. Used hammer on the puller, not the prop and only upon discovery of the jammed key was I able to "persuade" the prop off. Took two people. One to tap the key back into the slot while the other manned the puller.
Wasnt expecting such a fight.