well - the crappy offshore weather up here in the NE ( isay crappy only when i have time to go fishing) has meant that Mrs Fanelli has had her time to get on my neck about replacing the deck on the back of my house. We've gone around and around about what type of decking to use. She likes the "happy shiny" trex brazilia...i like Ipe. This is really kinda wierd because she is from Brazil and everything there is made from the real stuff...concrete, terra cotta , granite and hardwood. Now she wants to plastic pretenders attached to the back of our house.
I tried to be objective...and the fake stuff doesn[t look bad - but almost all brands and types have the same drawback...they fade and scratch (just lke real wood) but can[t be re-furbished (like teak of Ipe)
The pretenders are expensive too...just about the same as Ipe.
Maintenance, i would argue, is going to be the same. I put samples of all possible contenders on my old deck all summer. The fakes get dirty and would need to be washed with cleaners and brush at a minimum to get em clean. The Ipe...well i just took that piece into my kitchen sink and scrubbed it with a course scotchbrite pad, just like i used to do on my boat's teak covering boards...and voila...came up clean and nice again. ...so...no choice is maintenance free.
I do worry about cupping and cracking with the Ipe. i would be using 1x6 with hidden biscuit ype fastners- and worry that it could cup...i don[t know why i worry...i just do.
...anyway - all the bigbox depot guys, local lumber yards and hardwood dealers have thier opinions - and they have thoroughly confused me. Then - just now, at a little after midnight - i thought...hmmm...i'll bet the B31 guys will know about this sort of thing.
...so...any of you use either type of real of fake wood on around your house?
Joe
way off topic
Moderators: CaptPatrick, mike ohlstein, Bruce
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JohnCranston
- Senior Member
- Posts: 737
- Joined: Jul 8th, '06, 17:50
- Location: Spring, TX; Freeport TX
Joe,
We built our bay house in Freeport Tx 5 years ago and used treated pine on all decking areas, including hand rails. The Tx sun shines bright all year around, and the hand rails were starting to buckle and twist up a bit. We replaced the rails with Trex and are completely happy with our choice. We would re-do the entire decks with Trex if cost wasn't an issue, but, being in hurricane alley, we'll just stick with the Trex on the hand rails. When we were in NY a few ago, we were real impressed with the ipe. We didn't feel any warpage or buckling on any of the decks that we walked on. Nice stuff, and , was told, much cheaper than Trex. I heard different prices on what the ipe costs...between $1-$3 a board foot. If I had to replace our decks, I'd sell stuff, or do whatever to have ipe decks. My decks suck compared to that stuff.
Let me know what you choose
Thanks.
We built our bay house in Freeport Tx 5 years ago and used treated pine on all decking areas, including hand rails. The Tx sun shines bright all year around, and the hand rails were starting to buckle and twist up a bit. We replaced the rails with Trex and are completely happy with our choice. We would re-do the entire decks with Trex if cost wasn't an issue, but, being in hurricane alley, we'll just stick with the Trex on the hand rails. When we were in NY a few ago, we were real impressed with the ipe. We didn't feel any warpage or buckling on any of the decks that we walked on. Nice stuff, and , was told, much cheaper than Trex. I heard different prices on what the ipe costs...between $1-$3 a board foot. If I had to replace our decks, I'd sell stuff, or do whatever to have ipe decks. My decks suck compared to that stuff.
Let me know what you choose
Thanks.
I'll never ruin a $50 buzz with a $4 sandwich
My back deck is 11 year old timbertech, and my dock is decked with whatever Home Depot had at the time that was cheapest. The maintenance isn't much--wash the deck with a brush and some deck cleaner (or water and bleach to get the mildew) every once in a while--that's it. If you have kids, another benefit is that it never splinters.
I had a wood deck on my old house--never again. The cleaning/washing/treating with whatever that didn't last more than a year looking OK. My parents had their deck built with cedar--looked good for about a year. They spent the next 10 years getting it treated with different stuff that didn't last or basically covered up the cedar and made it looked like brown painted boards. They finally had it stained/painted grey.
Ipe is nice looking, but I'd rather spend my time working on my boat (or fishin' it) than working on my deck.
I had a wood deck on my old house--never again. The cleaning/washing/treating with whatever that didn't last more than a year looking OK. My parents had their deck built with cedar--looked good for about a year. They spent the next 10 years getting it treated with different stuff that didn't last or basically covered up the cedar and made it looked like brown painted boards. They finally had it stained/painted grey.
Ipe is nice looking, but I'd rather spend my time working on my boat (or fishin' it) than working on my deck.
when i was a carpenter i built a large ipe deck. to do it right every end cut has to be sealed and every hole has to be pre drilled. building a deck with biscut joinery is asking for trouble no matter what you use. deck boards should be spaced and face nailed or screwed so the water drains between them and dosent sit at all. i use treated lumber for our home decks. turns gray and lasts forever. a power wash every five or eight years makes it new.
Buddy did his deck from Trek. Fastened from underneath with their special little fasteners, extremely neat and clean looking. He went with a grayish color that doesn't show dirt as easily. 5 years and still looks great
No splinters or sharp edges anyplace, looks clean, no maintenance other then he gives it a power wash at the beginning of each year and he's good to go. I've seen it before the power wash and I would have left it as is...but he's a bit more of a perfectionist.
No splinters or sharp edges anyplace, looks clean, no maintenance other then he gives it a power wash at the beginning of each year and he's good to go. I've seen it before the power wash and I would have left it as is...but he's a bit more of a perfectionist.
I like Trex very much, but will tell you that it is ###### slippery when wet. I came very close to falling off the roof when the ladder slipped out from under me when cleaning gutters this spring. I was lucky that the ladder had a hook on it that happened to catch on the gutter or I would have been decoration in a flower pot below.
Other than that handicap, its awesome stuff, easy to work with, etc.
Dug
Other than that handicap, its awesome stuff, easy to work with, etc.
Dug
i cant imagine that ever happening.Dug wrote:I like Trex very much, but will tell you that it is ###### slippery when wet. I came very close to falling off the roof when the ladder slipped out from under me when cleaning gutters this spring. I was lucky that the ladder had a hook on it that happened to catch on the gutter or I would have been decoration in a flower pot below.
Other than that handicap, its awesome stuff, easy to work with, etc.
Dug
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Brewster Minton
- Senior Member
- Posts: 1795
- Joined: Jun 30th, '06, 07:44
- Location: Hampton Bays NY
- Contact:
The first Trex could get slippery. There are alot of different manufacturers of composite decking materials. If you think you may go this way, get to a lumberyard that carries different products. The TimberTech that I used is tongue/groove and is wood-grained, and looks better to me than the stuff I used on my dock. However, the Timbertech gets black mildew spots after awhile, where the stuff on the dock has never been touched and looks the same as when I put it in. My sister has a small Ipe deck that looks great.
I'm in middle of making same decision and after talking to every contractor we have worked with for 20 years I've found the following..
Ipe is the best if you want real wood and want to maintain it with only a yearly power wash.. but listen to randal what he said is dead on also be careful of stain issue when left to weather naturally
Issue around here with azek trex alot of others that contain any wood fiber at all is with staining, has to be pressure washed all the time, weathering of color and scratching as color does not go all the way through consistently..
Right now I've settled on Lumberrock.. all plastic ..good pattern so wet traction is better than most..Did tests with screwing down vs concealed fastening and it does not mushroom like others at screw head..best warranty will not stain at all and aside from sweeping and a hose wash to get off any bird droppings etc..thats it.. lousy dealer network so I may buy direct from factory in Illinois I think...decent color choices and best selection of darker colors.. even with freight from Ill to Boston about same price as others..
Be very careful about spacing vs temp you are installing at.....
A 16' board will expand 1/2" along it's length across a 100 deg temp range..Try to install at around 50 deg if you can and the shorter the boards the smaller the gaps you'll need....
Ray
Ipe is the best if you want real wood and want to maintain it with only a yearly power wash.. but listen to randal what he said is dead on also be careful of stain issue when left to weather naturally
Issue around here with azek trex alot of others that contain any wood fiber at all is with staining, has to be pressure washed all the time, weathering of color and scratching as color does not go all the way through consistently..
Right now I've settled on Lumberrock.. all plastic ..good pattern so wet traction is better than most..Did tests with screwing down vs concealed fastening and it does not mushroom like others at screw head..best warranty will not stain at all and aside from sweeping and a hose wash to get off any bird droppings etc..thats it.. lousy dealer network so I may buy direct from factory in Illinois I think...decent color choices and best selection of darker colors.. even with freight from Ill to Boston about same price as others..
Be very careful about spacing vs temp you are installing at.....
A 16' board will expand 1/2" along it's length across a 100 deg temp range..Try to install at around 50 deg if you can and the shorter the boards the smaller the gaps you'll need....
Ray
I did a dock and deck with Ipe about 8years ago and my biggest regret is not going with the biscuit fasteners. When finished properly it's almost a shame to put furniture on it let alone a bunch of holes. I used 1x4 and cupping has not been an issue although checking will occur at the end of the boards if not properly sealed. I have some 5/4x6 lumber laying around for future projects and that hasn't cupped either. The Ipe is also stiff shit and you can go 24" on center with 1" lumber. It has a solid feel under foot as well as a different sound when walked on. My neighbors 2x6 pt deck adjoins mine, we put them in together and you can really get a feel for the difference between the two materials. Traction is great even if wet and it doesn't get as hot as some plastics.
If you let it go gray there is no maintenance but if you want it brown there will be some oiling to do. The wood itself does not scratch but the finish can so bringing the deck to a high polish is do-able but murder to keep up with. I chemical wash and oil once a year in the spring although they recommend oiling every 4months for the first few years. power washing or sanding isn't recommended or necessary, oxy clean and a brightener bring the wood right back with little effort.
Cutting and drilling isn't that bad if you use the proper blades and bits, watch your feed rate. I used one 10"carbide saw blade and two drill bits during the installation. Splinters are a bitch and more like metal splinters than wood splinters, and wear a mask. Pre-cut ,pre-drill and countersink make the construction of the deck more tedious but it's a one time deal.
I'm a lazy guy and I like the stuff. I have to replace my 15 year old cedar deck with the Ipe next year. I won't have to replace my dock and deck in this lifetime. Email me if you want pictures
If you let it go gray there is no maintenance but if you want it brown there will be some oiling to do. The wood itself does not scratch but the finish can so bringing the deck to a high polish is do-able but murder to keep up with. I chemical wash and oil once a year in the spring although they recommend oiling every 4months for the first few years. power washing or sanding isn't recommended or necessary, oxy clean and a brightener bring the wood right back with little effort.
Cutting and drilling isn't that bad if you use the proper blades and bits, watch your feed rate. I used one 10"carbide saw blade and two drill bits during the installation. Splinters are a bitch and more like metal splinters than wood splinters, and wear a mask. Pre-cut ,pre-drill and countersink make the construction of the deck more tedious but it's a one time deal.
I'm a lazy guy and I like the stuff. I have to replace my 15 year old cedar deck with the Ipe next year. I won't have to replace my dock and deck in this lifetime. Email me if you want pictures
Don't lend a hand to raise a flag aboard a ship of fools!
well men:
thanks for all the input. I believe we are going to use IPE...and what all of you have said seems right...if you can live with the little bit of maintenance required, nothing looks as nice. ...and it can be restored and restored over and over iif needed. I found a local guy in NJ who is selling the stuff for 13% less than the Trex Brasilia.
The hidden fastner system seems pretty robust and certainly does require a bunch more labor to pre-drill every hole, etc...but...since i'm the laborer in this case, the time is free ...at least that is how my wife sees it.
Actually pretty excited about this project...especially suprising since it is not a boating project. My wife is suspicious as she really expected me to complain more. ...don[t know what'[s wrong with me lately.
Well...thanks men. As always, the answer to most of life's tough questions can be found here. Will keep you all posted
Joe
thanks for all the input. I believe we are going to use IPE...and what all of you have said seems right...if you can live with the little bit of maintenance required, nothing looks as nice. ...and it can be restored and restored over and over iif needed. I found a local guy in NJ who is selling the stuff for 13% less than the Trex Brasilia.
The hidden fastner system seems pretty robust and certainly does require a bunch more labor to pre-drill every hole, etc...but...since i'm the laborer in this case, the time is free ...at least that is how my wife sees it.
Actually pretty excited about this project...especially suprising since it is not a boating project. My wife is suspicious as she really expected me to complain more. ...don[t know what'[s wrong with me lately.
Well...thanks men. As always, the answer to most of life's tough questions can be found here. Will keep you all posted
Joe
I have built and repaired a lot of decks. Around here no one uses the plastic, just a matter of esthetics more than anything else. We occasionally use Ipe. Nice stuff but heavy and hard. You definately have to pre-drill for all fasteners. Use only stainless screws. The square head drive ones are good. And figure on dulling a blade or two in the chop saw by the project's end.
We used to use vertical grain fir back in the 70's.... but that has been replaced mostly by Meranti... which is a sort of mohogany with an open grain. It isn't really a mohogany tree at all but more of a luan. It is lighter and slightly softer than Ipe so you can shoot it with the proper nail gun and stainless ring shank nails, or screw it down generally only having to pre-drill at the butt joints to avoid splitting. But it is hard enough that it stands up well to traffic, tight enough grain it doesn't shed splinters and generally doesn't cup.
The thing is I never see the stuff in big box stores... so you would have to find a local yard who will work with you to order it.
It is fairly rot resistant. All of it that we get from our yards is stright grained and knot free. Maintenance is an occasional pressure wash if anything at all. It goes silver-gray in the weather and looks fine without any stains or sealers.
Peter
We used to use vertical grain fir back in the 70's.... but that has been replaced mostly by Meranti... which is a sort of mohogany with an open grain. It isn't really a mohogany tree at all but more of a luan. It is lighter and slightly softer than Ipe so you can shoot it with the proper nail gun and stainless ring shank nails, or screw it down generally only having to pre-drill at the butt joints to avoid splitting. But it is hard enough that it stands up well to traffic, tight enough grain it doesn't shed splinters and generally doesn't cup.
The thing is I never see the stuff in big box stores... so you would have to find a local yard who will work with you to order it.
It is fairly rot resistant. All of it that we get from our yards is stright grained and knot free. Maintenance is an occasional pressure wash if anything at all. It goes silver-gray in the weather and looks fine without any stains or sealers.
Peter
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JohnCranston
- Senior Member
- Posts: 737
- Joined: Jul 8th, '06, 17:50
- Location: Spring, TX; Freeport TX
One thing not mentioned:
About 1 in 15 people have severe reactions to ipé dust, the lapachol to be more specific. This only occurs when you're putting the particles up in the air ( sawing, sanding, etc )
Most common are skin rashes... bad rashes... poison ivy type rash, everywhere on the skin where the dust makes contact. I've seen it on the arms, legs, neck, and face. Takes about a week to clear up a mild case.
Have also seen a few cases of respiratory issues... guys didn't wear a particulate mask, allready had skin reaction, then the breathing trouble sets in. That can get scary... like a anafalactic reaction. ER visit.
Just saying, if you haven't worked with good ol ipé yet, approach w/ caution until you know wether or not it effects you... Me, I smoke a cigar rolled w/ ipé dust in it every morning @ 7 a.m.... antibodies ya know?
And yeah, watch those fu&%in' dagger ipé splinters...
About 1 in 15 people have severe reactions to ipé dust, the lapachol to be more specific. This only occurs when you're putting the particles up in the air ( sawing, sanding, etc )
Most common are skin rashes... bad rashes... poison ivy type rash, everywhere on the skin where the dust makes contact. I've seen it on the arms, legs, neck, and face. Takes about a week to clear up a mild case.
Have also seen a few cases of respiratory issues... guys didn't wear a particulate mask, allready had skin reaction, then the breathing trouble sets in. That can get scary... like a anafalactic reaction. ER visit.
Just saying, if you haven't worked with good ol ipé yet, approach w/ caution until you know wether or not it effects you... Me, I smoke a cigar rolled w/ ipé dust in it every morning @ 7 a.m.... antibodies ya know?
And yeah, watch those fu&%in' dagger ipé splinters...
I don't know what the world may want,
But a good stiff drink it surely dont,
Think I'll go and fix myself...a tall one.
But a good stiff drink it surely dont,
Think I'll go and fix myself...a tall one.
-
RAWicklund
My 2 cents.
I too have put in few ipe decks and have a love/ hate relationship with the stuff.
To reiterate some advise above.
Always end seal (AnchorSeal)
Possible linear growth/shrinkage... plan (and minimize) joints accordingly.
Cupping?? Not sure, never had any issue with 4" and 5" widths. But I've never used 6" wide boards.
The bisquits you plan on using to fasten the deck is the EbTy hidden fastening system I assume. I've used it but don't care for that system myself.
You need to buy grooved boards or groove them yourself... bisquit jointer (Labor intensive) 2x pass thru table saw... You need more then an 1/8" kerf for plastic bisquit.
There are a few companies that make SS hidden fasteners for grooved boards that look like a better system then the bisquits, but I haven't used them myself.
One other drawback to the EbTy system I found is there lack of holding power when you need to tweak a board (1/2" bow over 8' is not uncommon)
My favorite so far is the TigerClaw (TC-4's) Installs resonably fast and very secure.
I've also used 16ga SS brad nailer along with 5200 to fasten Ipe... don't laugh... gravity is your friend.
Applying a finish is where my love/ hate relationship begins.
Ipe can be polished to a furniture grade finish with very little effort...BUT keeping it that way is futile in an outdoor enviroment.
I spent the extra bucks to use Penofin Marine Stain, but it was a waste of money IMO. Olympic stain worked best for me (tried Cabot and Sikkens also)
Due to its density, you need to rub/sand in the stain. No spraying, rolling etc. or you'll have pooling and splotching.
My sister up in the rainy PNW used penofin and loves it... that may be more your climate then the Africa hot we get down here in S. La.
Also as mentioned above.. beware of splinters... a big downside to pressure washing.. it raises the grain and creates a splinter factory.
Good luck
Ray
I too have put in few ipe decks and have a love/ hate relationship with the stuff.
To reiterate some advise above.
Always end seal (AnchorSeal)
Possible linear growth/shrinkage... plan (and minimize) joints accordingly.
Cupping?? Not sure, never had any issue with 4" and 5" widths. But I've never used 6" wide boards.
The bisquits you plan on using to fasten the deck is the EbTy hidden fastening system I assume. I've used it but don't care for that system myself.
You need to buy grooved boards or groove them yourself... bisquit jointer (Labor intensive) 2x pass thru table saw... You need more then an 1/8" kerf for plastic bisquit.
There are a few companies that make SS hidden fasteners for grooved boards that look like a better system then the bisquits, but I haven't used them myself.
One other drawback to the EbTy system I found is there lack of holding power when you need to tweak a board (1/2" bow over 8' is not uncommon)
My favorite so far is the TigerClaw (TC-4's) Installs resonably fast and very secure.
I've also used 16ga SS brad nailer along with 5200 to fasten Ipe... don't laugh... gravity is your friend.
Applying a finish is where my love/ hate relationship begins.
Ipe can be polished to a furniture grade finish with very little effort...BUT keeping it that way is futile in an outdoor enviroment.
I spent the extra bucks to use Penofin Marine Stain, but it was a waste of money IMO. Olympic stain worked best for me (tried Cabot and Sikkens also)
Due to its density, you need to rub/sand in the stain. No spraying, rolling etc. or you'll have pooling and splotching.
My sister up in the rainy PNW used penofin and loves it... that may be more your climate then the Africa hot we get down here in S. La.
Also as mentioned above.. beware of splinters... a big downside to pressure washing.. it raises the grain and creates a splinter factory.
Good luck
Ray
brothers we have another buju here , very informative that is hands on experiance i like the color of ipe and have used it extensively . i used buju three step method prior to vanish. that is actone---clean ---alcohol clean--- clean again . so far absolutely no warping, bending.cupping and vanish adhere well. the ipe on the edges of the floor boards is holding up well better then the alluminum crap . i have to remove floor board to fill water tank every week or so. i am happy with the results and nothing in the world is as good as ipe as a backer for thru hull especially 2" raw water intake.
capt.bob lico
bero13010473
bero13010473
When rebuilding our dock and boat house we put down ipe decking. Tried a finish for that brown look. After two attempts we sanded it off and went natural. Looks great after five years. No issues.
Well, you can't really see it under the snow.
Can't see it under the hurricane's efforts either.
Guess what I'm saying is that it stands up very well and looks great, when you can see it.
Well, you can't really see it under the snow.
Can't see it under the hurricane's efforts either.
Guess what I'm saying is that it stands up very well and looks great, when you can see it.
Mikey
3/18/1963 - -31-327 factory hardtop express, the only one left.
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits.
-Albert Einstein
3/18/1963 - -31-327 factory hardtop express, the only one left.
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits.
-Albert Einstein
i was planningg to use the ebty clips...but IPE CLIP makes a similar item made of Stainless steel. I'll check the tigerclaw as well. Funny you mentioned 5200 - in my reseach, i saw several guys saying you should use polyurethan contruction adhesive...and i thought 5200 would be a great idea.
The deck is well off teh ground so i'll have good airflow around it - hopefully this will keep cupping to a minimum
Buju - i heard the same thing about the dust. My wife is brazilian...her bro-in-law is a carpenter and warned me. I'm going to get the boards pre-grooved so i can minimize dust creation...otherwise i'll wear the good mask, goggles and longshirts etc.
I'm not sure how i'll deal with the sealer yet...i took my IPE sample with 1 summer worth or weathering on it and scrubbed it with a scotchbrite pad - it came up and really nice light-brown color...siimilar to freshly sanded teak. I like that look. Of course, my wife likes the look of the dark brown oiled/stained Ipe...and i have ahunch she'll win this fight....at least for the 1st yr or so.
Will be looking to place my order soon. ...1x6 boards with pre-grooved edges are going for about $3.20 / lf.
The deck is well off teh ground so i'll have good airflow around it - hopefully this will keep cupping to a minimum
Buju - i heard the same thing about the dust. My wife is brazilian...her bro-in-law is a carpenter and warned me. I'm going to get the boards pre-grooved so i can minimize dust creation...otherwise i'll wear the good mask, goggles and longshirts etc.
I'm not sure how i'll deal with the sealer yet...i took my IPE sample with 1 summer worth or weathering on it and scrubbed it with a scotchbrite pad - it came up and really nice light-brown color...siimilar to freshly sanded teak. I like that look. Of course, my wife likes the look of the dark brown oiled/stained Ipe...and i have ahunch she'll win this fight....at least for the 1st yr or so.
Will be looking to place my order soon. ...1x6 boards with pre-grooved edges are going for about $3.20 / lf.
Rawleigh,
Noticed that Miss M was staked out for the last hurricane. Dreamsicle hasn't made it back inside yet. Maybe this weekend.
Maybe not.
Noticed that Miss M was staked out for the last hurricane. Dreamsicle hasn't made it back inside yet. Maybe this weekend.
Maybe not.
Mikey
3/18/1963 - -31-327 factory hardtop express, the only one left.
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits.
-Albert Einstein
3/18/1963 - -31-327 factory hardtop express, the only one left.
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits.
-Albert Einstein
Heres an exerpt from an engineers report for redoing parts of the ocean city boardwalk.
For decking alternatives, the report compared the costs of plastics, domestic softwoods and imported hardwoods.
According to the report, pressure-treated domestic softwood has a useful life of 20 years, and a $15 total cost per square foot, $54,000 cost per module, and a 40-year lifecycle cost of $108,000. Certified imported hardwood has a useful life of 60 years and a total cost of $31 per square foot, $111,600 cost per module and a $74,000 lifecycle cost over 40 years. Recycled plastics have a useful life of 50 years, and a total cost of $19 per square foot, $68,000 cost per module and $54,720 lifecycle cost over 40 years. Composites have a useful life of 40 years, a total cost of $11 per square foot and a cost of $64,800 per module and a $64,800 life cycle cost over 40 years.
“Based on cost comparisons, the pressure treated domestic softwood southern yellow pine is the most cost effective when comparing initial construction costs. However, over the 40 to 80 year life cycle, the recycled plastic and imported hardwood products become the most cost effective alternatives,†according to the report.
For decking alternatives, the report compared the costs of plastics, domestic softwoods and imported hardwoods.
According to the report, pressure-treated domestic softwood has a useful life of 20 years, and a $15 total cost per square foot, $54,000 cost per module, and a 40-year lifecycle cost of $108,000. Certified imported hardwood has a useful life of 60 years and a total cost of $31 per square foot, $111,600 cost per module and a $74,000 lifecycle cost over 40 years. Recycled plastics have a useful life of 50 years, and a total cost of $19 per square foot, $68,000 cost per module and $54,720 lifecycle cost over 40 years. Composites have a useful life of 40 years, a total cost of $11 per square foot and a cost of $64,800 per module and a $64,800 life cycle cost over 40 years.
“Based on cost comparisons, the pressure treated domestic softwood southern yellow pine is the most cost effective when comparing initial construction costs. However, over the 40 to 80 year life cycle, the recycled plastic and imported hardwood products become the most cost effective alternatives,†according to the report.
-
CaptPatrick
- Founder/Admin
- Posts: 4161
- Joined: Jun 7th, '06, 14:25
- Location: 834 Scott Dr., LLANO, TX 78643 - 325.248.0809 bertram31@bertram31.com
I ain't plannin' on livin' much over another 20 years or so. Might be lucky, (or unlucky), enough to see 87. Don't want that furrin' stuff, even if it is a legal immigrant. Plastic is just plastic, n' I like my wood to look like real wood. And....... Being from the south, my deck will of course be PT SOUTHERN yeller pine. Build starts in October... Tenatively... Well, maybe...
Now where did I put that order form for the deer butt doorbell?
Now where did I put that order form for the deer butt doorbell?
I'm gettin ready to do a little one for my outdoor shower out of flotsamwood and weathered driftwood I've colleted over the last few years... Got a good collection of worm-bored mahogany and what I belive is spanish cedar (smells an awful lot like a humidor when it's cut..) and some good gnarly buttonwood and seagrape trunks for posts.
Yep, it's gonna be "different" and whatnot.
Yep, it's gonna be "different" and whatnot.
I don't know what the world may want,
But a good stiff drink it surely dont,
Think I'll go and fix myself...a tall one.
But a good stiff drink it surely dont,
Think I'll go and fix myself...a tall one.
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