Locating and venting a portable A/C unit
Moderators: CaptPatrick, mike ohlstein, Bruce
Locating and venting a portable A/C unit
A previous thread (and my first mate's encouragement) got me thinking about a portable A/C unit for use dockside. The hatch units are pretty self contained but they're also pretty big and awkward to haul around when underway. I'm kind of drawn to a small, cheap unit like this one.
http://www.portableairshop.com/PAC8000S ... nditioners
The review say that it doesn't produce a lot of water, and a drip into the bilge wouldn't be a big deal anyway. For location I'm thinking the footwell area of the v-birth or possibly under the dinette table.
My question (finally) is venting this thing. Any ideas for a slick venting arrangement? I think a panel placed in an open window would look like hell. I'm wondering about simply venting into the engine compartment (creates a route for fumes/CO to enter the cabin) or simply running a vent under the aft dinette seat and through the aft cabin bulkhead. This route seems pretty straightforward though I'm always hesitant to drill large holes without giving it some thought first.
http://www.portableairshop.com/PAC8000S ... nditioners
The review say that it doesn't produce a lot of water, and a drip into the bilge wouldn't be a big deal anyway. For location I'm thinking the footwell area of the v-birth or possibly under the dinette table.
My question (finally) is venting this thing. Any ideas for a slick venting arrangement? I think a panel placed in an open window would look like hell. I'm wondering about simply venting into the engine compartment (creates a route for fumes/CO to enter the cabin) or simply running a vent under the aft dinette seat and through the aft cabin bulkhead. This route seems pretty straightforward though I'm always hesitant to drill large holes without giving it some thought first.
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 7036
- Joined: Jun 29th, '06, 21:24
- Location: Hillsdale, New Jersey
- Contact:
- In Memory Walter K
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2912
- Joined: Jun 30th, '06, 21:25
- Location: East Hampton LI, NY
- Contact:
If your dinette windows are sliders, open up one fully. Make a cardboard template of the open space. Use the template to cut a piece of plywood, Azek, Coosaboard etc and cut a hole into the center of it to fit the exhaust/vent ring that usually comes with the unit. They are usually the quick disconnect type. When you need it, open the slider, fit your panel into it's place. Slide your slider back to hold it tight. Snap on the vent hose into the fitting on the panel and you're set to go. If you paint it white it won't be visually intrusive and hell. if you want to, a local plexiglass place could cut one out for you and it will look like your window. Being flat, it's easy storage. The water run-off hoses are small and discharge a minimal amount. Bilge or bucket. Some even have a pan you could empty with an automatic shut-off when it is full
Steve,
I love the idea and I think Walter is right on the mark with his suggestion to make a panel that fits in the side window as a vent.
How many BTU's is the unit you are looking at? If you do this let us know how it works! I thought about a similar set up for my 28 and don't want to lose the space of a permanently installed unit.
JD
I love the idea and I think Walter is right on the mark with his suggestion to make a panel that fits in the side window as a vent.
How many BTU's is the unit you are looking at? If you do this let us know how it works! I thought about a similar set up for my 28 and don't want to lose the space of a permanently installed unit.
JD
I'm warming up to the idea of a side window vent. The unit I'm looking at is 8000 BTU. Click on the link above for more info, including a video.Wingnut wrote:I think Walter is right on the mark with his suggestion to make a panel that fits in the side window as a vent. How many BTU's is the unit you are looking at?
It would fit under the dinette (where I have an AC outlet) and wouldn't expose that much unsightly vent hose in the short run up to the slider. We would most likely use it only at night for sleeping. If I decide to give it a try I'll definitely report back.
- CaptPatrick
- Founder/Admin
- Posts: 4161
- Joined: Jun 7th, '06, 14:25
- Location: 834 Scott Dr., LLANO, TX 78643 - 325.248.0809 bertram31@bertram31.com
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 106
- Joined: Jun 30th, '06, 06:57
- Location: NH
- CaptPatrick
- Founder/Admin
- Posts: 4161
- Joined: Jun 7th, '06, 14:25
- Location: 834 Scott Dr., LLANO, TX 78643 - 325.248.0809 bertram31@bertram31.com
Ever run your auto air conditioning with the re-circulation bypass off? Allowing the system to draw an amount of outside air in?
Ain't nowhere near as cool as a closed recirculated system.... I wouldn't connect the unit to anything that would allow it to draw in outside air. If it's necessary to vent the unit because of heat generation, vent it to the cabin bilge.
Ain't nowhere near as cool as a closed recirculated system.... I wouldn't connect the unit to anything that would allow it to draw in outside air. If it's necessary to vent the unit because of heat generation, vent it to the cabin bilge.
-
- Senior Member
- Posts: 267
- Joined: Jun 29th, '06, 13:30
- Location: Nassau,Bahamas
- Contact:
Steve:
Also take a look at RV websites' 115V airconditioning units and consider...............Coleman type,roof [hatch] mounted...................most need a 14"x14" cutout if I remember correctly and you can install it in either the cabin door hatch or the bow hatch,both are ~20"x20".................for what they cost and ease of install may be perfect for you..........drawbacks would be in being 'permanently' mounted and in not being able to open the hatches.................you'd just have to duck under into the cabin even more than usual if installed at the doorway hatch........I figured I could install anything between 8,000 or 12,000 BTU's capacity/size wise there that would fit under the bench seat overhead without mods to it.........I would take the cabin hatch off and build one instead from 3/4" glassed/painted or gelcoated plywood to mount the unit on/in.........I only haven't yet as I spend little time inside the cabin except to retrieve beers from the fridge...................
Also take a look at RV websites' 115V airconditioning units and consider...............Coleman type,roof [hatch] mounted...................most need a 14"x14" cutout if I remember correctly and you can install it in either the cabin door hatch or the bow hatch,both are ~20"x20".................for what they cost and ease of install may be perfect for you..........drawbacks would be in being 'permanently' mounted and in not being able to open the hatches.................you'd just have to duck under into the cabin even more than usual if installed at the doorway hatch........I figured I could install anything between 8,000 or 12,000 BTU's capacity/size wise there that would fit under the bench seat overhead without mods to it.........I would take the cabin hatch off and build one instead from 3/4" glassed/painted or gelcoated plywood to mount the unit on/in.........I only haven't yet as I spend little time inside the cabin except to retrieve beers from the fridge...................
Preston Burrows
1976 B28 FBC
BERF1398M76J-285
1976 B28 FBC
BERF1398M76J-285
The heat comming off the cond coil is the same as whats comming off your outside ac unit. While not quite the volume, it gets real warm.
Outside venting is the only option to keep the cond coil temp down which makes the unit as efficient as designed.
Most of those units if you read the fine print say low water output cause of use in very low humidity areas.
Considering most of the US during the time AC is needed is med to high humidity, much water will be made and need to be drained. I would not use a bilge unless you are on the boat. Other wise direct overboard thru a sink drain is best.
An AC is Just a dehumidifier is reverse and we all know how much water they develop.
Outside venting is the only option to keep the cond coil temp down which makes the unit as efficient as designed.
Most of those units if you read the fine print say low water output cause of use in very low humidity areas.
Considering most of the US during the time AC is needed is med to high humidity, much water will be made and need to be drained. I would not use a bilge unless you are on the boat. Other wise direct overboard thru a sink drain is best.
An AC is Just a dehumidifier is reverse and we all know how much water they develop.
- scot
- Senior Member
- Posts: 1470
- Joined: Oct 3rd, '06, 09:47
- Location: Hurricane Alley, Texas
- Contact:
Steve,
There are some marinas down here that consider a home window unit hanging of the side of the boat a real neat idea. I had a slip mate in Port Arthur that had a huge honkin window unit bolted on his 20ft blow boat. He stayed in the boat for IKE...they found him intact, seriously shaken up, about 200 yards from his slip...high and dry, trapped in a pile of boats, go figure.
Just to be clear, I don't advocate this type behavior, or this type AC system.
Could you vent to outside air with an OEM chromed brass engine ventilation cowl? That may look right at home on the boat assuming you can find a good spot for it.
There are some marinas down here that consider a home window unit hanging of the side of the boat a real neat idea. I had a slip mate in Port Arthur that had a huge honkin window unit bolted on his 20ft blow boat. He stayed in the boat for IKE...they found him intact, seriously shaken up, about 200 yards from his slip...high and dry, trapped in a pile of boats, go figure.
Just to be clear, I don't advocate this type behavior, or this type AC system.
Could you vent to outside air with an OEM chromed brass engine ventilation cowl? That may look right at home on the boat assuming you can find a good spot for it.
Scot
1969 Bertram 25 "Roly Poly"
she'll float one of these days.. no really it will :-0
1969 Bertram 25 "Roly Poly"
she'll float one of these days.. no really it will :-0
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot] and 220 guests