transducer

thereheis · Post by **thereheis** » Sep 24th, '06, 17:41

is it possible to mount the garmin 1 kw transducer flush on the bottom of the hullwith out using the big faring block?i have seen the faring block they have and holy s^%&* it's huge!!!!!i wanna use the 1 kw for deep water ,,,any ideas????? phil

JP Dalik · Post by **JP Dalik** » Sep 24th, '06, 19:28

Plenty of options if your up to it.
First find a 1kw that works with the garmin unit and place it in an oil box. This is a transducer box mounted inside the hull and filled with mineral oil. Simple and effective on most solid fiberglass hulls (if cored your screwed)
Down side is you need to mount a seperate temp and speed paddle.

Second is to build a box inside the boat. Custom flush mount transducer box. This is made by casting a mold of your transducer and building an exact to size box. Then "CUT A BIG HOLE IN THE BOTTOM" of the boat and glass your transducer receptacle into the bottom. Leave the ducer hang down an 1/8" or so to be sure you have no bubble trail.....
#2 is not for the faint of heart call in the pros for that job. But its really a clear picture without the speed loss.

Both will probably cost more then the fairing block... You will probably see no better or worse picture with one then the other. Down the road the oil box is easier to change transducers should you change units or a ducer fail.

Good Luck.

thereheis · Post by **thereheis** » Sep 24th, '06, 19:44

not really to happy about the oil box,,had one on a 42 bert,and it didnt work so good ...i really want it flush mounted in the hull.i have one on my intrepid and it works greatguess i'll let the yard do the do ..got enough to worry about right now,, thanks i'll kepp those options in mind,

phil

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Sep 24th, '06, 19:48

JP,

Thanks for the text rundown, I was in to process of giving a very similar discussion when the power went out and lost the post.... Grrrr..

Phil,

I've done it both ways and creating an interior pocket is the way to go and I already know that you're not a member of "Faint Hearts Assoc."

Cut your hole to fit the ducer with only about 1/16" of space around it. Wrap the ducer in plastic sheeting, (Saran Wrap) & support the ducer into the hole from below the boat.

Build up the interior box with heavy roving and epoxy. After it cures for a couple of days, remove the transducer, the plastic wrap, and grind and fair out the interior box to be cosmetically acceptable.

Re fit the ducer & use thickened epoxy to fair out the lower edge of the ducer to the hull. This should span at least 4" back from the edge of the duce so that water flows smoothly up to and over the ducer face.

Install the ducer with a minimal amount of 4200, mainly at the exterior hull joint and around the stem and nut. Remember, you'll probably need to remove the ducer some day...

Br,

Patrick

thereheis · Post by **thereheis** » Sep 24th, '06, 20:06

thanks capt. pat thats what i was looking for,i just didn't know how to go about doing it,looking at your drawing i see how now...all that is a cavity .am i correct?the shape of the ducer????approx how many layers of glass should i lay it up with ?????got the trailer in from mc clain today,headed back to the ranch to put the THEREHEIS on it ..

phil

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Sep 24th, '06, 21:01

Phil,

the internal shell should be at least as thick as the hull, including the top. Remember, if you were to hit something it could try to drive the ducer back into the boat, so make it plenty strong and flared out to spread any abnormal loads.

you can precut dry fiberglass patches & then wet them out and work them on one by one. In other words you'll layer them up until complete. Try to keep your resin content down to only what you need to fully wet out the glass & chase bubbles away, but no more. Don't try to make angle changes with heavy cloth.

Call me for any specific details.

You probably want to do this job before putting the boat back on the trailer...

Br,

Patrick

Rawleigh · Post by **Rawleigh** » Sep 25th, '06, 08:55

Capt. Pat: Wouldn't one of the flush mounts be easier?
Tilted element:
http://www.airmartechnology.com/airmar2 ... &PageNo=67

or

Straight Flush Mount through the keel area:
http://www.airmartechnology.com/airmar2 ... &PageNo=65

JDavis · Post by **JDavis** » Sep 25th, '06, 09:11

Phil,
Did you have your trailer made? If so, what should I expect to fork out for one if you don't mind me asking. Do you have a name and number of a contact person to call? Thanks.
John

IRGuy · Post by **IRGuy** » Sep 25th, '06, 09:27

If you want to talk with someone about what xducer will work with what electronic package, call Gem Electronics in Lake City, SC... 843-394-3565.

They make the xducers for a variety of fishfinder/ depth sounder manufacturers and know what goes with what. I believe they have most in stock, and will sell direct. I bought my xducer from them.. when I told them what electronics package I was going to buy they were able to tell me what xducers would work with it, plus they charged me wholesale.

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Sep 25th, '06, 09:55

Rawleigh,

Totally different transducer...

These mothers are BIG.

Br,

Patrick

Rawleigh · Post by **Rawleigh** » Sep 25th, '06, 11:26

Kinda like having a canoe attached to the bottom of your boat!! Glad my fishing is in shalloweer waters!

bertram31.com

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