Check your work!

Amberjack · Post by **Amberjack** » Jun 21st, '25, 17:19

In the process of gettingAmberjack ready for summer cruising I had a mechanic do a complete fluids change. I used to do this work for myself but over the years I’ve been farming more of it out to a local marine diesel service company. They have done solid work. I’m not comfortable heading out relying on someone else’s work so I usually check for myself. Transmission fluid, fine. Engine coolant, fine. New engine mounted fuel filters, both new. Port engine lube oil, right on the mark. Starboard engine lube oil, 3/4 quart high. Yanmar sticker right next to the oil fill port says “EXTREMELY important- do not fill past the fill mark”. Maybe not a big deal on other engine models. Overfilled engine oil on Yanmars hits the bottom of the cam shaft creating frothy lube oil causing premature engine wear. I could have put 80 nautical miles on the boat up to Reid Harbor before a normal after run engine check. Then I would have been stuck at anchor trying to figure out how to remove the extra 3/4 qt engine oil.

Most of us already do, but if you don’t, check their work!

Ironworker · Post by **Ironworker** » Jun 22nd, '25, 12:15

Good reminder. I just had a very similar issue with the oil being overfilled in a Suzuki DF140 outboard engine. When the engine was started it smoked badly. I pumped out about a quart of oil maybe 1.5 quarts and the engine started and ran perfectly.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Jun 24th, '25, 22:22

Doug

I preach to all my friends; I don't care who works on your boat. Check everything. Never take it for granted that it is right.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Jun 25th, '25, 14:09

Doug I don't know which is worse. Doing the job yourself or paying someone to "do it right" costing a good bit of coin then having to check their work. In your case fix the problem yourself before it became a major problem.

My guess is they just poured in the specified amount. Which would mean they didn't pull the last 3/4 quart out.

Ironworker · Post by **Ironworker** » Jun 26th, '25, 11:54

I have a neighbor who smoked two cummins engines in his 42 Bertram. He hired a maintenance guy to do some minor work on his boat and the mechanic shut off the seacocks and did not open them back up. My neighbor left the dock to go fishing and overheated his engines.

The mechanic didn't check his work. The mechanic's helper didn't check the work. My neighbor didn't check the mechanics work.

Amberjack · Post by **Amberjack** » Jun 26th, '25, 13:08

Carl wrote: ↑Jun 25th, '25, 14:09 Doug I don't know which is worse. Doing the job yourself or paying someone to "do it right" costing a good bit of coin then having to check their work. In your case fix the problem yourself before it became a major problem.

My guess is they just poured in the specified amount. Which would mean they didn't pull the last 3/4 quart out.

Carl,the dip sticks on Yanmars are fickle. Long, narrow with a kink on the bottom they also have a seal at the top. If you leave it fully inserted while filling oil the seal creates pressure in the tube which prevents oil from rising to the level of oil in the pan (at least that’s my theory). The mechanic probably left the dip sticks on all the way in while he filled the specified amount so when he pulled the stick out to check it read low. “Too much is better than not enough” he thought so he added another half quart or so. The next reading would have been a mess as the tubes are narrow and the kink causes the stick to drag oil up into the tube. Result-a completely useless reading. So he probably added a touch more to be safe and crossed his fingers. All this at $145/hour. I’ve been to that rodeo before but like Capy I’m getting to a point where I’ve been farming out some of my work. Next time I’ll go back to my old practice of having the mechanic pump the oil out but I’ll fill it!

pschauss · Post by **pschauss** » Jun 26th, '25, 17:09

Before I retired six and a half years ago, I worked in IT for 40+ years. I learned three things:

- If my work depended on a task that someone else performed, I needed to check their work.
- More important, if anyone made any changes to software or system configuration, the entire system needed to be tested.
- If you make multiple changes, make them one at a time and test each one as you go. That way, if something breaks, you have a better chance of figuring out what caused the problem.

In my seven seasons with my 31, I have learned to be scrupulous about all of these points, especially the second one. There is nothing worse than loading half a dozen people on the boat and discovering that some minor change/adjustment that you made a week ago broke something.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Jun 26th, '25, 20:53

Doug

I learned at an early stage, that when you do an oil change, and you have put the fresh oil in the engine, you pull the dip stick, wipe it off and then re-stick it and check the oil.

Those where my father's rules whenever we changed the oil on a customer's car.

Amberjack · Post by **Amberjack** » Oct 14th, '25, 18:48

CHECK YOUR WORK REDUX

Ever since we bought Amberjack 30 some years ago we have used and enjoyed having the bulkhead mounted 110v/1500 watt electric heater that was already installed when we bought the boat. Few things feel more snug than being at the dock in miserable weather and hearing the heater click on. Morning coffee is always more enjoyable in the cool Pacific Northwest when the heater is there to take the chill off. Finally this summer it quit, time to replace it. So I got down on my knees to remove it and found the first surprise. The two lag screws holding the grill cover on were the only fastners holding the entire unit in place. The PO just used extra length grill screws to go right into the bulkhead to secure the whole thing. Jack, you bastard!

Anyhow I figured replacing like with like was by far the easiest and most practical way to go so I did a web search for replacement units and found out this model had been recalled 25 years ago as a fire hazard!

Probably six surveys over the course of my ownership and no one mentioned anything. I know it was my responsibility to be aware but still, who checks their wall mounted heater? I hope this discussion will prompt everyone to take a look at things like this on our 50-60 year old boats.

Finally, in the same theme I’ll conclude with an old image I took when crawling around under the gunwales a couple years ago. Who ever thinks to make sure their cleats are securely bolted down?

https://imgur.com/a/0fZ1JTs

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Oct 15th, '25, 07:09

Amberjack wrote: ↑Oct 14th, '25, 18:48
Finally, in the same theme I’ll conclude with an old image I took when crawling around under the gunwales a couple years ago. Who ever thinks to make sure their cleats are securely bolted down?

https://imgur.com/a/0fZ1JTs

3 outta 4 ain't bad... well actually it is.

When you said high oil level hits cam...did you mean the crank? Or is the cam low in yanmars or a funky passageway?
High oil level is to be avoided in the Cummins 5.9's as well, crank would hit causing oil to foam.

JeremyD · Post by **JeremyD** » Oct 15th, '25, 07:59

Learned this racing cars. Had a mechanic replace brakes and rotors before an event. 3 laps in thought something felt strange in the front end. came in and didn't see anything - took the wheels off and grabbed the caliper that moved in my hands. Obviously had not torqued the caliper bolts properly - could have ended badly, but didn't. At that point I started doing my own work, and if I fail at anything, it will be under my own hand. Now I make all bolts with paint when I torque them - even on my truck.

Amberjack · Post by **Amberjack** » Oct 15th, '25, 18:04

Carl, you are correct of course. Yanmars may be different but not that different, it is the crankshaft.

Jeremy I was at the government locks to lake a week ago and noticed the safety rail separating the visitors (there are hundreds every day, all usually leaning against the rail) from the lock attendants who walk along the edge of the lock and safety clip onto a track along the inside of the rail. It was fairly elaborate with custom brackets. Each was secured with a maybe 1 1/4” nut and bolt and every nut and bolt was paint marked. That was quality engineering and fabrication. The locks themselves are impressive also. Built in 1917 and still operating as originally built.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Oct 15th, '25, 21:01

Doug

I would assume the prior owner had the cleat out for some reason and missed tightening one of them up. Or he used the same rule as putting the heater. That's the Good Enough rule.

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Oct 16th, '25, 01:44

I always use self locking nuts for cleats, windlass etc.

Attention however has to be paid on HOW to turn these self locking nuts...if you use a drill, you have to go SLOW, or else the plastic within the nut gets overheated and melts and becomes obsolete, without your noticing it...rather, you will notice it the hard way in the future!

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Oct 16th, '25, 08:39

Yannis- You are right to be using self lock nuts, thread adhesive or jam nuts(with jam on first) over lock washers. Funny how lock washers are the still the standard for keeping assemblies tight in the face of studies proving otherwise. I was late to that show, a buddy keyed me in.

Doug- I was more curious if there was a difference that caused cam to foam the oil. I've been inside a few gas motors but not a diesel...and kinda hope it stays that way. Unless its just cause I can and want to. Dads Steyrs are an electrical monoblock design, some interesting stuff going on there..again, aside from brochures and talking to tech servicing them, I don't know much about them.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Oct 16th, '25, 22:06

Yannis

Carl is correct. Those self-locking nuts fail. The Nylon/Plastic breaks down. Better off using a locking nut as Carl described.

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Oct 17th, '25, 06:45

Apart from not knowing what these locking nuts or washers that Carl describes are, I have never seen a self locking nut like the one I describe fail.
Unless, you go fast on the drill and ruin the plastic which eventually fails...

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Oct 17th, '25, 07:11

Tony- I'm a fan of quality locking nuts, nylon ones can be great...but Yannis hit the nail on the head when powering them on. Being snug they can generate lots of heat which can degrade the nylon. As my customer found out powering SS Nylocks with SS screws...the heat generated not only ruins the nylon but in his case caused the threads to seize together...unfortunately before they cinched down. SS on SS with snug fits and heat...not a match made in heaven.
They have distorted threaded nuts too, They hold tight but I find they muck up the mating thread, but I've had little experience to really tell.

Now the best way, castellated nut or hole through for cotter pin, also wiring them up which can be an art. Maybe a bit over the top for a cleat and just snug them up good.

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Oct 17th, '25, 11:13

"Castellated", now THAT'S something new, oh boy, I need to go back to school LOL !!!

Ironworker · Post by **Ironworker** » Oct 17th, '25, 16:33

Lesson learned

I've been waiting for 3 weeks for a weather window to go the Bahamas. I finally got a break in the weather on Monday. The seas had been 6 to 10' or higher for weeks and this past Monday was forecast 3 to 5's with the winds out of the North. I fueled up on Saturday with 340 gallons of fuel on board. Its normally about 195 gallons for the trip which is 205 NM or 236 SM. It was a solo trip for me. I checked into West End to clear Customs and as normal practice checked the bilge. I had a little diesel in the bilge which I attributed to a leak in the plumbing on my port AUX tank. I had a guy help me install the plumbing on the AUX fuel tanks and he installed a sight tube. The Starboard side had leaked and I removed that crap but never got around to fixing the Port Aux tank. I assumed the diesel leak which was on the Port side was the sight tube on the Aux tank. That was a mistake to fixate on that as the issue!

I stopped a couple of more times in route to check the diesel leak and I still was seeing fuel in the bilge. I am now a 120 plus NM into the trip and the Aux tanks are empty. (They gravity drain into the Main Tank). I checked the fuel level in the main tank and had ~ 130 gallons in the Main tank. I was headed to the barn south of Grand Bahamas and Abaco. The sea state was decent and I was making 24 knots at 2100 rpm. Doing the math I has 130 gallons to make 75 NM, I pushed on. I got to the Hole in the Wall about 4:30 pm (I was looking at the light house) and my Starboard engine quit. WTF, then the Port engine quit!

I checked the fuel level in the main tank and it was empty!!! I had run out of fuel about one mile from the tip of Abaco in 700' of water and drifting Southwest towards the shipping lanes and water depths of 14,000' deep. Just 35 miles short of Spanish Wells on the other side of the Providence Channel.

Now that I had nothing but time to look around at the engines, I noticed that my fuel return line had come loose from the Starboard engine. My lesson learned was to double check, no triple check all fuel line connections and to safety wire them as well. Also, don't fixate on what you think the problem may be but run through all the possible sources before coming to a conclusion.

A tough lesson for me but for those that learn from others mistakes then a here is a gift to you.

Ironworker · Post by **Ironworker** » Oct 17th, '25, 16:35

BTW, There are only three types of people in the world.

People that learn from the mistakes of others.

People that only learn from their mistakes

People that never learn.

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Oct 17th, '25, 22:50

Rick,

I always look for someone to accompany me on my trips to and back from the islands, which is an 80nm trip.

And although they almost always assure me that they will come, infact when time comes to commit themselves it’s almost always the same story…”oh damn it I’m busy” or “I have an appointment that I can’t miss” etc. so I very frequently make this trip alone.

Too long a trip to be alone and sometimes too risky, like last year when my whole bimini structure snapped, because of bad conditions.
Very bad idea to travel singlehandedly…
And it worsens as I get older…

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Oct 19th, '25, 11:02

Wow, that is a lot of return fuel that wasn’t returned. Surprised you don’t have an indicator or light to show rear bilge pump on. May have given a tip off something’s not right.

Ironworker · Post by **Ironworker** » Oct 19th, '25, 16:38

Carl,

Its a hellva lot of fuel! I installed two normal 2000 gph bilge pumps and two 5000 gph crash pumps in the boat when I built her. I wired all of them with indicator lights. HOWEVER, this summer I installed a 1500 gph automatic pump in the belly of the boat. I did not spend the time to add the indicator signal wire for this pump. It does its job well, Its getting water down to the a 1/2" in the bilge. So this was the pump that was pumping the diesel out before it could get to the other pumps.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Oct 20th, '25, 21:47

Rick

I would guess you do not have a fuel gauge on the main tank. I know that sometimes they are more of a pain then they are worth, but I have found that with a Centroid sending unit they are pretty dam accurate. I can usually look at my gauge and tell within gallons where I am.

Might be worth it as a double check.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Oct 21st, '25, 06:24

Tony, now I'm torn. Do I stay with my mechanical sending unit that always tells me something. When running tank is full, off plane its usually less then full...if not tap the top of the sending unit and it will find the level. Fill tank to half...wait for gauge on tank to read half, wait for half. Geez, has to be enough fuel for half...go tap the sending unit n WallA 3/4 tank which is more like full as 1/2 is really 3/4 and 1/4 is just under a half, 1/8 is really a quarter, but makes me nervous so I add to about 3/8 to 1/2 when local, running is still full till about 1/8 to 1/4 depending on how I'm running.

Electronic sending unit...I like the sound aside from it possible losing calibration just cause or power spikes, loss etc, But I'm pretty good at knowing were it should be and use more for reference except if more is used or leaked and I assume sending unit is off. Hmmm, something to think about. 20 years with flow scan...aside from me once in awhile zeroing it when I should not have it was always accurate. Hmm...wish I could run both. Or just do dads gauge...open top n stick it. Accurate but doesn't help when underway n wanna verify amount of fuel remaining. Then again have to stop when running to really see level.

Something to think about, thanks for info on Centroid sending unit Tony.

Ironworker · Post by **Ironworker** » Oct 21st, '25, 10:47

Tony Meola wrote: ↑Oct 20th, '25, 21:47 Rick

I would guess you do not have a fuel gauge on the main tank. I know that sometimes they are more of a pain then they are worth, but I have found that with a Centroid sending unit they are pretty dam accurate. I can usually look at my gauge and tell within gallons where I am.

Might be worth it as a double check.

Tony,

You are correct. I have a sending unit but not a head gauge. I need to replace both. My QSB 5.9s are electronic and they have FF gauges built in. They are pretty damn accurate on how much fuel is consumed by the engine but of course they don't measure the fuel in the return line.

Of course, I have a fuel gauge in my future. I'll take a look at your unit.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Oct 21st, '25, 12:52

Amazing, its the perfect storm Rick.

How many seemingly inconsequential items had to come together to run out of fuel. One return line not 100% secure, one bilge pump not wired with an indicator to tip you off of a substantial leak somewhere, a fuel sending unit without a gauge in dash to tip you off the tanks not as full as it should be. The kicker...you saw diesel in bilge before going. I thought it was only me that had that type of luck where I can kick myself for knowing better, but tell myself whats the chance.

Also have to say you were lucky to be at the doorstep in decent weather and without people on board that would not take motors dying in stride.

Ironworker · Post by **Ironworker** » Oct 21st, '25, 17:16

Carl wrote: ↑Oct 21st, '25, 12:52 Amazing, its the perfect storm Rick.

How many seemingly inconsequential items had to come together to run out of fuel. One return line not 100% secure, one bilge pump not wired with an indicator to tip you off of a substantial leak somewhere, a fuel sending unit without a gauge in dash to tip you off the tanks not as full as it should be. The kicker...you saw diesel in bilge before going. I thought it was only me that had that type of luck where I can kick myself for knowing better, but tell myself whats the chance.

Also have to say you were lucky to be at the doorstep in decent weather and without people on board that would not take motors dying in stride.

Yep, and still could be drifting in the Northeast Providence Channel. At least I have Starlink! Any guesses on how much the Tow was?

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Oct 21st, '25, 20:32

Just a week or 2 ago a neighboring club headed our way for closing day party. Ran out of fuel a couple miles from us….instead of getting on phone n calling us for a hand, they called Sea-Tow. Hour or two later they show up with a few gallons of fuel, enough to start motors n then had to get towed in to fuel dock by our club. $700.00

I”ll guess $1200.00

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Oct 21st, '25, 22:04

Carl

The unit is pretty simple. You need to run power to it. I fused that line with an inline 3-amp quick blow fuse. I pull my batteries for the winter and the unit starts right up in the spring. No problem

I accidently shorted out the wires last summer while working back there. No problem. Replace the fuse and off to the races.

Just measure the tank and let them know how long you want it to be.

It also stops reading if you have water in the tank. So, it forewarns you of a problem.

There is only one issue with Centroid, the company not the unit. They are a small Florida company. They are quirky in that, originally, I could order direct from them. That was my first unit. I updated the unit when I repowered because I was installing a Cruz Pro fuel gauge. Now once you tell them it is for a Bertram, they send you to Danny at High Tide.

Maybe Rick would be able to pick it up directly and not go through Danny since he is in Florida from time to time.

I really like the unit, much better than the old float style unit.

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Oct 21st, '25, 23:40

To me the problem arises ONLY if you have a spill, like explained above.
In other words, only when there's fuel that is not accounted for.

For all other everyday uses, that are 99.99% of the cases, you count the miles. You know you can run for so many miles. So, you plan to refuel after so many miles. Or, you plan to have enough fuel that will last for so many miles.
I've been on boats without any gauge or any device measuring fuel, no problem, you just count the miles!

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Oct 22nd, '25, 07:04

Yannis- Counting the miles makes a few assumptions. The first is fuel is not being lost to leakage, fuel is being burnt at a known rate and the boat is covering a specific distance. Today's flow meters can verify burn...but older mechanical s like mine do not. Fouled bottom, motor not running right can change the burn. Big seas, wind, current may see a heavier burn per mile covered.

Ironworker · Post by **Ironworker** » Oct 22nd, '25, 07:13

Fair guess Carl, but not close. Piracy is still alive and well in the Bahamas. It was also a Bahamian National Holiday. Of course they have a National Holiday every couple of weeks.

Other guesses?

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Oct 22nd, '25, 20:52

Rick

Since it was a holiday and 35 miles to go plus drift, I will up Carl's bid to $2,500.

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Oct 22nd, '25, 22:57

35 miles times two, plus drift, plus 2 ppl for say 5-6 hours, plus overhead, plus tax, plus profit, hmmm, I'd say north of 3,5k.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Oct 23rd, '25, 07:34

I took my guess so too late to backpedal, but didn't realize you were towed 35 miles home. I assumed it was a bee line to the closest marina for fuel.

Ironworker · Post by **Ironworker** » Oct 23rd, '25, 11:30

Carl,

You are welcome to another guess. The two was actually 41 miles and we got in to port at 1:00 am.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Oct 23rd, '25, 21:24

Rick

How long did it take once they hooked you up? It almost sounds like you waited a long time before they showed up.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Oct 24th, '25, 06:33

Ok, I'll take another crack at it. I figure by 5 you called for a tow, and clock started. You made port by 1am, 1/2 hour to tally up the bill and make payment plus 3 hour return for them. 11-1/2 hours in total at $300 is $3450.00...you said national holiday so double time is 6900, 10% more for a night tow, $7590 and I assume some kind of tax on top $8500.00, 4% Credit Card fee $8840.

If something more then a small rib like tow boat with a guy or two 300/hr may be light.

My guess, someplace between 8-10k

Ironworker · Post by **Ironworker** » Oct 24th, '25, 16:41

Tony Meola wrote: ↑Oct 23rd, '25, 21:24 Rick

How long did it take once they hooked you up? It almost sounds like you waited a long time before they showed up.

Tony,

It was a 6 hour tow. The tow boat arrived about 6:30 pm and we arrived at the dock around 12:45.

Ironworker · Post by **Ironworker** » Oct 24th, '25, 17:00

So here is the tow story. Right after I ran out of fuel and confirmed I was out of fuel, I called Seatow. My Seatow coverage covers both Florida and the Bahamas. I have nothing but good things to say about Seatow. I was on the phone (Thanks to Starlink!) trying to figure out options for a tow. I called my local contacts in Spanish Wells but they were either off the island on the lobster boats or their boats on the hard due to the recent storms. One of them recommended Executive Charters (don't forget that Piracy still exists in the Bahamas). They wanted $6,000 for the Tow.

Seatow was not happy with the amount (Seatow's opinion was that the tow should be no more than $4K max) and recommended other options but they were all 100 plus miles from my location. Seatow has a maximum coverage limit of $5K per tow. In the end I paid the $6K and Seatow is sending me a check for $5K. I did my best to negotiate the Tow fee to $5K but Executive Charters would not budge. Perhaps they will need me to tow them in one day. One can only hope. My best advice is to seek all other options other than Executive Charters.

BTW, I have personally towed in over a dozen boats over the years and never have asked for payment. One such tow was over 20 miles.

JeremyD · Post by **JeremyD** » Oct 25th, '25, 07:05

Dang - I have the same coverage, so good to know.

When I bought my boat the previous owner pulled both cleats out of the stern (and subsequent damage to the hawse pipe) from towing a 40+' sport fisher. Guess through a rough patch of water - the Bertram traveled over the wave - the wave stopped the sport fisher and BAM - out comes the cleat!

Ironworker · Post by **Ironworker** » Oct 25th, '25, 10:32

When I rebuilt my boat, I added a tow ring to the Bow that will pull the boat in half before it fails and I also added tow rings to the Stern which are also pretty stout. I'd hoped by adding them I would never need them. So much for that theory.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Oct 27th, '25, 22:05

Rick

Unfortunately, they knew they had you. Just be thankful they failed pirate class otherwise you would have been really have felt the pain.

Ironworker · Post by **Ironworker** » Nov 12th, '25, 10:07

Well nothing like bad luck following bad luck. I run Tides Marine dripless Shaft seals on my boat. We were out HST for wahoo and I heard an unusual sound form the Starboard engine. I thought I had hit something but that wasn't the case. We were out 20 miles from the dock and I decided to HST back. The boat ran fine and there were no faults on my engine monitors.

My Bride tells me there is a lot of water flowing in the bilge. I decide to hurry back to the dock. An inspection revealed that one of the Dripless shaft seals was melted and the cooling hose was pulled out of the housing (this is what caused the noise). I got the water stopped by stuffing a rag between the seal housing into the coupling which worked amazingly well to stop the water.

So what caused the shaft seal to fail. The 3/8" hose at the raw water valve was caked with a sediment just at the tip of the nozzle. No water to cool the seal and the shaft housing got hot and melted to the shaft. Of course once the 380 hp cummins broke the seal there was plenty of water to cool the shaft housing.

So this particular item is going on the monthly inspection list!

Anyone have a maintenance check list they would like to share with the group? I'm building one but you guys have a lot more experience that me with these boats and engines and I would appreciate all the knowledge I can get.

SteveM · Post by **SteveM** » Nov 12th, '25, 11:16

Damn! Glad you are ok. Holy smokes, another shaft log incident.

How are you going to test that hose regularly?

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Nov 12th, '25, 12:40

Glad you made out ok. On a semi-good note there is a spec between shaft and bore of gland housing that is supposed to address how much water can come in if packing/seal is removed. The flow is supposed to be what good pumps can handle. If you notice I used supposed twice.

Your not the 1st or 2nd to have that issue. Same issue with the PYI seals...hose, fitting or whatever clogs, gets pulled off and no water to lube n cool.
That is the reason I am so fond of the old fashioned tried and true dripping flax packing. I hate checking to see if I have water flow but not knowing is it may get clogged once I reattach do to a piece of...

When you have an answer on how to check and know, I'm all ears. Maybe a flow meter like they use on wet exhaust that sets an alarm if running dry.

Ironworker · Post by **Ironworker** » Nov 12th, '25, 12:51

To check, I'm going to physically unclamp the hose and visually inspect for clogs every month.

Tides Marine makes both a single port shaft seal (which is what I had) and a dual port which is what I replaced the old seals with. So I have a much better chance of getting water to both seals. The chances of both seals loosing water would be pretty low. I am have two spare lip seals on each shaft but that does nothing for the housing melting.

BTW, I found that at idle, the seal requires a minimum flow of 1 gph at 2 psi.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Nov 12th, '25, 16:30

OH NO!!! the housing melted, damn that's not good. I read as the seal melted, ugh...at least for me I run a good deal slower. Had to be an advantage somewhere. Its really not much of a benefit, but rationalizing.