B25 Headliner and Hull Liner

Ttownthomas · Post by **Ttownthomas** » Apr 21st, '21, 07:09

My B25 project is in a holding pattern while I await a Coosa delivery. I started to think about how to refinish the inside of the v-berth. The original (I assume) headliner is a wallpaper-like vinyl with a very thin weave pattern to it hat is clued to the underside of the core and to the underside of 2 other plywood panels that are removable. The hullsides are finished with a thick basketwave vinyl covering that is glued in and the lower trim is riveted over it.

I know I could clean, fair and paint but that seems like the long way and may make it less visually comfortable for the occasional overnight.

Assuming I want to recover it (with something other than carpet) what options are there? Can I use commercial wallpaper? or are there marine specific wall-coverings?

Chris
'72 B25

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Apr 21st, '21, 07:49

my boat had nasty orange 70's shag carpet on the insides of the hull, whomever put it there used excessive amounts of glue to attach it. Said glue is holding quite well and is terrible to sand as it balls off and melts releasing fumes as it goes. I had to sand a bit of it when I made my cabin smaller, I do not plan on sanding any more of it and whatever goes on top will have to hide that glue.

The front part of the underside of the cabin has plywood panels glued to it and on those were the perforated hole pattern such as this link
https://www.sailrite.com/EverSoft-Off-W ... 8MQAvD_BwE

The back part of the cabin had some plywood panels covered in the same material.

CamB25 · Post by **CamB25** » Apr 21st, '21, 11:48

That brings back bad memories of pretzel-like body positions, respirators, and an angry grinder. Not a fun project.

You might be able to bond a thin fiberglass sheet over the old glue - https://www.lowes.com/pd/48-in-x-8-ft-E ... el/3446552

Just a thought.

HotSpot · Post by **HotSpot** » Apr 21st, '21, 17:55

I’ve got the same project all prepped and supplies secured, with no motivation in sight.

I purchased the non-backed (no foam) perforated white vinyl headliner material to match the original. However, someone on my crew thinks something a little more on the luxurious side of 60’s style would be nice. So still looking for something better, but may just use it.

Also discovered that after removing those two plywood panels, it’s possible to sit fully upright next to the bulkhead. Building some kind of curved form that would allow the headroom, would be great, just not sure how to execute.

So for now enjoying the extra headroom and green-glass theme.

Regardless, the headliner material was very affordable at Defender. It looks pretty hardy with a fabric substrate. Also research led to using 3m headliner adhesive to hold it up.

Snipe · Post by **Snipe** » Apr 21st, '21, 19:42

I used a fiberglass safe paint remover it made fast work of it! I used rags scraper and wire brush. After I sanded it all down and faired and painted.For the head liner I used 1/4” veneer sepele mahogany ply.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Apr 21st, '21, 20:56

That is nice I like the look. What did you use for the trim work?

I assume you used Polyurethane on the Ply.

Snipe · Post by **Snipe** » Apr 21st, '21, 21:09

Tony I used all Seple mahogany trim as well. I sealed all of the trim with west system special clear. The headliner and cabinets I have yet to seal.

Snipe · Post by **Snipe** » Apr 21st, '21, 21:12

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Apr 21st, '21, 23:54

After grinding:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/191620136 ... ed-public/

Double sided tape to hold panels until glass paste and sikaflex cure:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/191620136 ... ed-public/

Application of glass paste and sika. NOTE: The glass paste created heat that affected the hull and is visible on the outside under certain light conditions. If I did it again I'd put less of this paste.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/191620136 ... ed-public/

Prefab fiberglass panel - rear side (2 layers of glass on gelcoat). Expected to initially apply as one single unit per side. However, due to the double curve of the hull, we had to cut into 3 pieces per side to accommodate the voids created.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/191620136 ... ed-public/

Finalization. Note wedges and tape to hold panels in place, until elements cure. The result is very satisfactory. One thing I didn't know is that this surface creates static and pulls dust; needs a damp cloth cleaning every now and then.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/191620136 ... ed-public/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/191620136 ... ed-public/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/191620136 ... ed-public/

While at it, I raised and glassed the anchor locker so that the chain stays in there...the wooden part of the fwd bulkhead became thus smaller.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/191620136 ... ed-public/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/191620136 ... ed-public/

Rawleigh · Post by **Rawleigh** » Apr 22nd, '21, 10:01

Snipe: Do you have a name or manufacturer for that stripper? Did you need a forced air respirator to use it?

Snipe · Post by **Snipe** » Apr 22nd, '21, 11:58

I will see if I still have the can when I get home stand by!!

HotSpot · Post by **HotSpot** » Apr 22nd, '21, 13:39

Snipe, that sapele looks great. (The entire job looks fantastic, really!) The color tone is really different than mahogany I’ve worked with. Usually it starts near this color when unfinished, but application of poly or varnish makes it a orange/red. The tone of this is really light and airy which is nice for a space with little light.

Did you specifically choose pieces with light colored variations, or is that usual for sapele? What’s your source?

Snipe · Post by **Snipe** » Apr 22nd, '21, 19:33

I use a local lumber yard for the sepele I don’t look for lighter ones that’s just them some are slightly darker.

[/[url=https://imgur.com/FTFRGU4]

Snipe · Post by **Snipe** » Apr 22nd, '21, 19:39

Rawleigh I didn’t use a Resperator. It wasn’t to bad I did have a fan in the bow hatch. I can’t find the can I think I used it all.

Ttownthomas · Post by **Ttownthomas** » Apr 22nd, '21, 20:21

Snipe, you have inspired me to sand, fair and paint.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Apr 22nd, '21, 20:59

Yannis

Nice work.

Snipe

I like the look of the cabin. What kind of headliner material did you use in the cabin?. It looks like it is all glassed in.

beachbum · Post by **beachbum** » Apr 23rd, '21, 05:10

Snipe - that is a work of art

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Apr 23rd, '21, 07:12

Snipe's work is amazing, I'd love to get to that level but I don't think it is in the cards any time soon.

Snipe · Post by **Snipe** » Apr 23rd, '21, 09:28

Tony the back half is a piece of marine ply coated in epoxy faired and painted and forward where the void is I raised it up to the trunk of the fly bridge and glassed it in. Guys thanks for the kind words.

Snipe · Post by **Snipe** » Apr 23rd, '21, 09:41

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Apr 23rd, '21, 10:05

I would wish to have cupboards in my house, like these!
Beautiful beautiful...

beachbum · Post by **beachbum** » Apr 23rd, '21, 13:59

Snipe - what paint did you use? Awlgrip or something? It looks flawless. Sprayed presumably?

I've got the same material as ttownthomas, which is to be removed at some point, this has inspired me

John F. · Post by **John F.** » Apr 23rd, '21, 15:00

ktm_2000 wrote: ↑Apr 23rd, '21, 07:12 Snipe's work is amazing, I'd love to get to that level but I don't think it is in the cards any time soon.

Same. Beautiful work.

Snipe · Post by **Snipe** » Apr 23rd, '21, 19:03

Thanks John

Beach bum I sprayed the cabin with awlcraft 2000

Yannis I have these in my house they are made of hickory. They are shaker style doors.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Apr 24th, '21, 23:47

Snipe

How difficult is it for you to gain access to the area under the bridge? It is an area you will need to reach for things like wiring and control cables.

Snipe · Post by **Snipe** » Apr 25th, '21, 07:07

Wires or cables will come up the pillar then you can see them through the aft ceiling panel then right to the bridge you can access the side of the trunk box easily from the ceiling in the cabin. Doesn’t seem to bad. I didn’t start the wiring yet so I guess we will see.

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » May 4th, '21, 07:16

Snipe,

How is the panel built which covers the back part of your cabin right near your main bulkhead with windows?

Inside my doghouse I setup the upper portion to house my vhf, radio, switches, horn, wiper, wires, etc. I was planning on enclosing the area with a 1/4" thick fiberglass panel and was wondering if I needed to reinforce it. I would like to eventually put a pair of speakers for the stereo downfacing on the panel

view from front
https://photos.app.goo.gl/e45bHFdNRrrk4YLU6
view underneath
https://photos.app.goo.gl/EKWrsc3SXYe179hQA

Snipe · Post by **Snipe** » May 4th, '21, 13:06

Ktm the ceiling piece was built with ply wood coated in epoxy then faired. You could laminate your fiberglass piece on the back side with plywood or coosa to stiffen it up for your application.

Waytooslow · Post by **Waytooslow** » Jun 3rd, '21, 22:20

Back to the original question of getting the glue off the cabins sides & roof--I had a fiberglass guy tell me that the fastest way is to use a power washer with a sand blasting attachment. I haven't tried it but sounded plausible.

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Jun 3rd, '21, 22:43

First you take away the bulk with a metal spatula.
Then, use rugs with acetone to dilute and remove the rest. Do not remain long on a given area with the acetone, instead, rub, move away to another area and come back.
Finally sand the remainder off. The sand paper will jam and will become obsolete. Renew sand paper.
Oh, and good luck...once you're done you’ll never want to do it again!

Snipe · Post by **Snipe** » Jun 4th, '21, 04:17

Yannis you got that right! It was a pain in the ass but I think it was worth it. I started out with acetone then switched to a fiberglass paint remover that worked really good. Scraper lots of rags and sand paper.

Snipe · Post by **Snipe** » Sep 11th, '21, 08:26

Rawleigh I know it’s been a while but I was cleaning the garage and came across the fiberglass paint remover I used to take the glue off in the vberth you asked about. I just used a respirator and a fan it wasn’t that bad.

Rawleigh · Post by **Rawleigh** » Sep 13th, '21, 12:00

Thanks jason! It is good to know that something will take that goo off!

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Sep 13th, '21, 19:54

Jason

That is very helpful. I really need to address that rug issue and was dreading the job.

trace elements · Post by **trace elements** » Sep 14th, '21, 07:30

Jason, I noticed in the cockpit where you recored the gunnels and in the v-birth you laid a fillet along the hull deck joint. Have you given any though to how to access the screws/bolts for the rub rail? Or have you already replaced your rub rail?

Snipe · Post by **Snipe** » Sep 14th, '21, 09:58

The rub rail has already been removed and a new pvc one will be installed after I paint. I removed the rub rail and all hardware then ground out any bad glass cleaned the seam on the outside of the boat then filled it all with west system six ten on the outside. Then on the inside I used thickened epoxy with cabosil to fill any gaps then while still tacky I glassed the whole seam inside stem to stern with two layers of 1708.

trace elements · Post by **trace elements** » Sep 14th, '21, 11:56

Snipe wrote: ↑Sep 14th, '21, 09:58 The rub rail has already been removed and a new pvc one will be installed after I paint. I removed the rub rail and all hardware then ground out any bad glass cleaned the seam on the outside of the boat then filled it all with west system six ten on the outside. Then on the inside I used thickened epoxy with cabosil to fill any gaps then while still tacky I glassed the whole seam inside stem to stern with two layers of 1708.

Jason, so you won't be able to thru-bolt the rub rail?

Snipe · Post by **Snipe** » Sep 14th, '21, 13:11

When the new one Is installed there will be new holes drilled.

trace elements · Post by **trace elements** » Sep 15th, '21, 07:47

Thanks, Jason. You're really doing a great job with that boat. You should be proud.