Every time I make progress it seems I take 2 steps backwards. Not complaining. I enjoy the journey.
I was trying to nurse a B25 back to health but once I got down to the outdrives and transom assemblies I decided to replace them. So I hit the reset button and had the motors pulled. Then I discovered some rot. Now I have removed every bit of wire and all mechanical systems from the boat. I am replacing the transom with coosa. I'm almost done with the core removal. Pictures below. I am keeping the 165's as they are in good shape and replacement long blocks are still available. My question is where and how do I look for stringer de-lamination now that i have good access? I've gone this far and if I have to go a little farther now is the time.
Your transom didn't look that bad, I'll bet that even though the wood was wet, it was still solid. When I went through those steps it was a royal pain in the backside, the small stainless ring nails were a killer.
During my project Cam mentioned that some boats had delamination in the area which you've shown but in my case none there, it was further forward under the drop down portion only on the port side. I think with the fuel tank hatch out, you would be able to see under the drop down with a mirror. I also think that this could have been identified by a surveyor with a rubber mallet banging on the area where the stringers are bonded. https://photos.app.goo.gl/wWSe2khMxS31MMUGA https://photos.app.goo.gl/15m4VvyWbK91TNyk8
I had suspicions that there was some stringer damage and was going to remove my deck anyways to get rid of the drop down as a part of my project. I would not recommend tearing into this area unless you are looking for a big project..
A surveyor blessed the hull and I have looked for signs of delamination but haven't found any. Just figure better to check again while everything is apart. The transom was still solid but since the bottom of the keyholes had bare wood I could see they were wet once the transom assemblies came out. It was a "better now when I cant get to it" repair. It took about 15 hours to get the transom out. I cut out a grid 3/4 inch deep and pulled the first layer of plywood first then went back and ground off the ring nails before moving to the second layer.
I'll bet the chance of de-lamination is a function of boat use. Flying off 3-4 footers and crashing down sort of thing. Maybe your boat led a charmed life on the lakes, it sure looks fresh down there! My boat did not have any de-lamination, but since the deck was out I reinforced the stringers full length.
Did your boat have the T-handle drain plug in the bottom? Do you want to re-locate this to the transom?
Keeping the 165s? Are you sure you don't want to drop in a new, fuel injected big block? You can always add a bow thruster to help with docking! he-he!
Or better yet..since you halfway there...cut the transom down and mount an outboard! Swing by Wilmington and I'll give you a ride! A transom with no holes in it!
Gee...I'm full of good ideas this morning!
1963 Bertram 25
1973 Boston Whaler 13 - sold!
1998 Scout 172 SF - beach taxi
Lol. All of these things have crossed my mind. The miser in me wants to keep the old American iron. Flinstone simple motors. Allready: Replaced Risers and manifolds, fuel pumps, rebuilt carburetors, Had starters and alternators rebuilt. Just have to replace the water pumps and should be good to go. Plus, who needs to cruise at more than 23kts anyway
Nothing wrong with the T-handle. I reused the hole for a thru-hull to supply my washdown/live well pumps then drilled a new hole on the transom for the drain plug.
what is your end game for the use of the boat? fresh water or salt water? if it's fresh water I would not see a problem staying with I/Os but I might look into doing brand new 3.0L packages as you've stated that you are replacing your outdrives and transom assemblies.
If you are going into salt water, I'd seriously consider outboard power.
The bad part of this is the old saying the enemy of good enough is better, each step comes with rather large increases in price.
1. Transom assemblies, outdrives, Bellhouse to hookup 165s, fixing anything on 165s
2. Full 3.0L packages
3. 383 / bravo drive package
4. outboard power
I debated the I/O versus outboard decision for years. Glad I picked the egg beater. In my opinion, it's the better choice for the shallow waters of eastern NC, and they are much easier to maintain/live with. There is someone out there in EBay land that needs your good 165 parts. I actually sold my 1975 Volvo blocks years ago to guy in NY that makes racing engines out of them!
1963 Bertram 25
1973 Boston Whaler 13 - sold!
1998 Scout 172 SF - beach taxi
GIaI5nfbQhCjpre2F4lUjA_thumb_16fc by ttownthomas, on Flickr
motors removed - 1 by ttownthomas, on Flickr
B25 1972 Transom core exposure - 1 by ttownthomas, on Flickr
Transom Core removal - 1 by ttownthomas, on Flickr
Transom removed - 1 (0) by ttownthomas, on Flickr
