Bertram 25 conversion to an outboard powered CC

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Dec 28th, '20, 10:10

Carl,

Last Summer I got a re-charge getting out on my buddies boat and during a few trips we got into some really nice stripers. He out-fished me handily all of the trips but it got the juices flowing and I got out of my funk and started working on the boat.

(his big fish of the day)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/r8xw98yG9NU6Pzwt6
(mine)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/iDU9tn23a43aT6W8A

My boat has never been intended as being a showpiece, I know my limits and I am just not that good at the fine details nor do I have proper facilities to get a high end finish. In this renovation I've spent more time in quite a few places than I should have and could have cut quite a few corners to make things go faster but most of the items I've spent extra time on are functional, like putting radiuses on the corners of the doghouse, leaning post and transom panel / splash-well. Bumping into hard corners hurts and I've tried to avoid that where possible.

Looking back over this year I can see that fabrication of a part I am fairly good at, I can work out an idea, make pieces and assemble it pretty quickly and do a good job at it. Fairing and finishing I am downright horrible at and it takes me forever to finish. I know folks here are partial to epoxy but using all polyester based resins on a part can make the work go significantly faster when looking at all the steps together.

Right now in the project I don't have too much structural work to do, the remaining work is mostly finishing, not good for getting things done quickly based upon my past experience thus my motive to get things done good enough to use the boat. I do want to be mindful that I don't do something that causes a lot of re-work like covering up glasswork with some paint which needs to be stripped off completely before moving onto a future step.

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Jan 5th, '21, 16:31

my internet went out yesterday around 10am so I could not connect to work to get any of my work done so I had to take 1/2 day PTO and with that I worked on a visio diagram for the wiring of the boat. I was able to finish off the diagram today. The diagram done in visio spanned 4 pages, when saving as a .jpg and uploading to google, some of the left side was cut off.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/AUyufwZB1TQ5bqkM9

It is kind of convoluted but here goes the explanation. All my wires are going to enter into the bottom of my doghouse from there I will terminate them all either on a terminal block for positive connections or a common ground block for the negative side of the circuit. From the terminal block I will run positive wires to my main switch panel and the other side of the switch will go to a fuse block. I also will have 6 switches and a smaller fuse block in the top of the doghouse inside the radio box, a bunch of items will terminate there to save wiring.

On Cam's suggestion a while back I had purchased a 1/2" thick piece of starboard to do all the terminal and fuse blocks, I am going to start to layout all the items on the starboard panel and test fit the panel in the doghouse so I can then start making up all the jumper wires which go between all the pieces.

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Jan 7th, '21, 09:32

I'm trying to figure out how to setup my fuel lines from my tank to the outboard engine so I can purchase the parts needed.

Here's my set of goals

1. Had my tank made with 2 pickups - want to be able to run off either pickup
2. Want to be able to shut off fuel before and after water separating filter
3. Want the filter to be above deck and easily accessible
4. Leave open the possibility to make provisions to add in an auxiliary above deck tank and be able to filter that fuel if I did try to go to the canyons.

My current thought process

1. Run dual fuel lines from fuel tank to fuel filter
2. Fuel filter will go on the starboard side of the boat and be covered under the gunnel - Already purchased 10 micron Racor with Stainless steel mounting bracket
https://photos.app.goo.gl/hpaTMR26xsrmXQnK6
3. Switch between fuel tank pickups and a auxiliary tank by finding a 4 way valve or some type of manifold.

4. I left a gap between the top of the gunnel and the side of the transom area so I could reach my hand in. I was thinking I could use a combination of 90 turns to get the lines going above and directly back from the filter and install shut off valves before the transition to rubber hose.

am I over thinking this? suggestions?

CamB25 · Post by **CamB25** » Jan 7th, '21, 15:31

Not sure if you over thinking it but if you want to run either pick up, maybe you just run both all the time into a Wye fitting. This eliminates one line to the filter, giving you an open port for the aux tank?

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Jan 8th, '21, 12:57

I did some searching looking at what trawler owners did to manage their tanks and do fuel polishing and searching on the term manifold came across this person messing with an outboard and he used a series of 90 degree fittings to make up a manifold.

I'm thinking that I could make up a similar piece with shut-off valves feeding in to the 90 degree fittings with hose barbs on the other side of the shut off valve

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Jan 11th, '21, 16:43

Another fuel line related question - does the fuel line go in the bundle of wires that go to the outboard or do I need a bulkhead fitting like this to pass my fuel line through my splashwell?

CamB25 · Post by **CamB25** » Jan 11th, '21, 17:18

all my cables and lines run through the single rigging tube.

In general I think it is good practice to keep your fuel lines as simple as possible. Minimize fittings, bends, etc. as these are sources of leaks. That cobbled together "manifold" with the all the fittings and ty-wraps looks like a disaster waiting to happen.

Don't forget to install a check valve at your tank connection to prevent the fuel from siphoning back to the tank I don't think you really need all the shut off valves, etc. The only routine maintenance is the filter.

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Jan 11th, '21, 20:47

Cam,

Over the years, on my boat and as well as on several friends boats I've run into too many fuel related issues so I am somewhat paranoid about making sure I can easily service the fuel filter and pickups. Am I going to add a lot of components, yeah but most will be threaded connections.

On the electrical front, I got in some terminal blocks and a bus bar so I started to lay out the panel which will go inside the console. The right side of the panel will go against the front face of the console and all the wires will come up in the very front. The left side is cut so it matches the angle of the dash. I'm going to figure out how to manage the power shut off switch so I can bolt it down but still take it up to service, right now I am thinking those 3 prong T nuts. https://photos.app.goo.gl/2MRo8B3zbcBMBhi2A

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Jan 12th, '21, 08:28

As Cam said, that makeshift manifold looks like 12 places a leak could develop.
I'm all for redundancy, but would rather one robust system then two "less then ideal" ones.

That said, you have to be comfortable with it, not me.

CamB25 · Post by **CamB25** » Jan 12th, '21, 10:00

Those 3 -prong t-nuts will not hold. Suggest you use plus-nuts, or similar,, to maintain a threaded insert. I get them from Mcmaster-Carr, but found this:

https://www.rivetnutusa.com/plusnut-rivet-nut-rivnut/

As an alternative you could install studs (bolts through the back side) to mount the switch. Forstner bit to recess the nut.

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Jan 13th, '21, 09:11

Cam,

I might make the studs and cut a couple inches of material off the bottom of the board to make strips to attach to the back side and have the board stand off the console 1/2". The wire ties I put on so far have 4 washers on them to make up the gap for a 3/4" screw, I would like those on a stud mount as well if I need to take them off when installing wires.

I think the starboard panel is going to look nice and be a good surface to have all the items on it but the downsides of the starboard is you got one shot to screw something in, if you take it out, the screw doesn't bite as well the 2nd time.

Seawater51 · Post by **Seawater51** » Feb 10th, '21, 08:31

Just found this forum, and after reading many of the posts, hope this will be a great source of information for our 1973(?) 25' Moppie project. The boat appears to have been sitting for 10+ years, but from an initial walk-around does not appear to have any catastrophic structural issues. First issue is re-power - it currently has twin 130hp IO's, and my preference is to replace those with twin outboards on a bracket. Armstrong Marine has indicated that they've successfully provided brackets for several B-25's. After looking at websites with B-25's for sale, I've seen everything from a single 225, to twin 115's to twin 300 outboards. My thinking is twin 200's would give a decent cruise speed (30K) without straining the motors. We're on the Chesapeake, know for calm & flat water most of the summer, so the ability to get 40K+ as a high-cruise is also a consideration. Weight aft is an obvious issue, but trim & tabs could help. Decision on re-power will dictate the restoration work ahead. I look forward to any/all responses, and appreciate your comments.

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Feb 10th, '21, 09:20

Seawater,

kts or mph - some folks confuse them, 1kt is 1.15mph 45kts x 1.15kt/mph = 51.75 mph, which is awful fast on the water.

Are you sure you want a high 40kt cruise? with the concept that it is a cruise speed and there's quite a bit more to get to the top end?

If you look at the beautiful boat that CamB25 has built with a single 300hp outboard he is getting 45MPH top end and seems to cruise nice at 30-33MPH. In knots - 26kt cruise / 39kt top end.

I've owned my B25 for over 15 years with the twin I/O power which had an honest 22-23kt cruise at 3600RPM. I typically run my boats at 75% of rated RPM at cruise and rarely exceed that. The waters in which I fish are not friendly for high speeds most days and in my renovation project if I get the same cruise speed as CamB25 I will be thrilled.

The B25 has a rounded keel and from what I've read gets squirrely in excess of 40kts. My boat was underpropped and in my years of ownership I could count on one hand the amount of times I've taken the boat to max rpm which in my case was 34kts. I've never had any handling problems and the boat always rode nice.

At my cruise I burnt roughly 10GPH, most boats burn 10% of their rated horsepower at max RPM - so 2x200 = 400 or 40GPH at max speed = gets pricey

In my opinion you might want to re-think the desire to go so fast as it really isn't needed on the water.

CamB25 · Post by **CamB25** » Feb 10th, '21, 14:23

These boats are not designed to be fast by today's standards. I ran mine up to 45mph to test prop sizing (and for fun). Very twitchy at that speed as it is riding very high in the water!

I spent literally years debating power options for my boat. The problem is that they all work. Figure out how much you want to spend and back into the power options that conform to the financial constraints. Shortens the list if you are on a budget. All options will work, some will be "better", and one will fit just right. My boat has the 300 G2 because: I bought it for 1/2 the price of new with 130 hours on it. Easy decision.

Seawater51 · Post by **Seawater51** » Feb 10th, '21, 15:34

ktm_2000 - I don't disagree with your comments - I've been sailing for 50+ years, cruised up & down the east coast, Keys, & Bahamas at 6K. I've also had a '88 Carrerra 27 IO that did 45K@ 3,500, flat out 62K, and a 21' wellcraft CC that hit 54K with a 225. My hope with the B25 is a solid 30K cruise (weather/wave dependent) - as it expands the range of "day trips" out of Annapolis. Being able to "cruise" at around 40K (high-cruise) without stressing the motors would be nice, but not a requirement. Merc has 175/200hp V-6 that weighs 75#, with comparable Suzuki & Yamahas being in the 500-530# range. not significant difference.

CamB25 - I was curious what type of stern bracket you used? Armstrong has indicated they can build (aluminum) a bracket that will conform to the "bumped-out" transom plane. They require templates, which I would have to ship to them. And, as you noted, budget may be the deciding factor on the re-power.

I appreciate your response and comments.

CamB25 · Post by **CamB25** » Feb 10th, '21, 16:47

we are stepping on KTMs thread, please start a fresh

Seawater51 · Post by **Seawater51** » Feb 11th, '21, 08:16

OOpps. Sorry. didn't know the protocol here.

Rawleigh · Post by **Rawleigh** » Feb 11th, '21, 11:34

KTM: I have a friend who is in the process of repowering a 30 Scarab Sport with twin Suzuki 300's. Seem like really nice motors at a much better price than Mercury. They have lots of nice features including power steering, synchronizer, adapter to display engine parameters on his Raytheon 12" displays, etc. He is repowering from mercury 250's and has always been a Mercury fan, but these were just more motor for less money. Also they have a 6 year warranty.

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Feb 11th, '21, 17:45

Rawleigh,

I've gotten a couple of quotes on 300hp Suzukis with the full electronic shifter. The quotes from multiple dealers in MA all around 5k more than what I am seeing out of one of southern dealers for the motor alone.

the last time I bought an outboard was over 20 years ago so I don't know what games they play or what negotiation can be done. All of the dealers are giving me an installed price minus taxes

Anyone experienced in what you can and can't ask for?

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Mar 9th, '21, 12:39

I've been quiet on the boat lately but some good news, I pulled the trigger today on a 300 Suzuki with the fly by wire controls. The marina is a small mom and pop shop about 1/2hr away from where I do my boating.

The motor should be ready 3rd week of april - let the race begin to have the boat ready for the motor to be hung!!!!!!

I'm psyched!!!!!!!!

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Mar 9th, '21, 14:03

Justifiably so!
Good luck!

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Mar 9th, '21, 15:18

Third week of April is coming up soon, get working!

CamB25 · Post by **CamB25** » Mar 9th, '21, 16:04

ktm_2000 wrote: ↑Mar 9th, '21, 12:39 I've been quiet on the boat lately but some good news, I pulled the trigger today on a 300 Suzuki with the fly by wire controls. The marina is a small mom and pop shop about 1/2hr away from where I do my boating.

The motor should be ready 3rd week of april - let the race begin to have the boat ready for the motor to be hung!!!!!!

I'm psyched!!!!!!!!

Great! did you go for the DP option...or is that only for the 350. I find the digital controls to be very easy to live with!

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Mar 9th, '21, 16:57

Cam,
I avoided the 350HP and the dual prop because I think it needed higher octane gas to make that HP as well as more $$ and possibilities of stuff to break.

I am somewhat second guessing the 300hp over the 250hp as I don't think I need the speeds you are achieving on your rig. I've had a couple of sales guys tell me the 250 and 300 are virtually identical other than the 300 can make more HP higher in the RPM band.

my logic is if I went with a 250 I couldn't add more HP and with a 300 I can always back off the throttle so there shouldn't be any reason to second guess the decision other than a couple grand up front cost but if you divide 3k out over 10 years it is not a lot of difference.

I'm sure it is going to put a smile on my face when I can jam the throttle forward on a FAC day

CamB25 · Post by **CamB25** » Mar 10th, '21, 09:24

Simple is probably better. I don't see WOT in my general float plan, but it's nice to know that I have some reserve thrust, if needed.

Speaking of thrust...everyone is sold out of props. Can't find a prop anywhere. Backordered from China, or wherever. Did you order a prop with the engine?

I had a good conversation with Powertech yesterday. https://www.ptprop.com/ They had some good suggestions for my tweaking and they make some props specifically for Suzuki. They are pointing me to the OFX line, think I should stick with a 4 blade, but move up an inch in pitch. Everything is 6 weeks backordered, of course! Might be worth a call. Mention me if you speak to Michele. She was very helpful.

Cam

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Mar 10th, '21, 10:59

The dealer priced in a SS prop and said they would work with me to dial it in and would swap out props as needed until I was happy.

I am most interested in getting the following:

1. consistent cruise best mix of RPM / Fuel burn - from your experience it will be at speeds faster than what I wanted @24kts
2. Nasty weather bite - need to be able to run the boat @15kts without falling off plane
3. how slow can I go - can I do <3kt without bumping in and out of gear, think jigging wire line for stripers.

before I was under propped with 15x17 props (should have had 14.5x20s) and they had a huge bite and could troll slow, the downsides being a higher RPM at cruise and loss of top end.

I liked being in that config as it didn't overload the motors and I'm not sure how it will work out with 1 single.

CamB25 · Post by **CamB25** » Mar 10th, '21, 14:01

#1 and #3 should be no problem. #2, however....I wouldn't bank on it with a single. I don't think there is enough thrust with one prop at low rpms to keep the stern up. Maybe it's my set up, but it's either putt around, no wake style, or get on top and run. if Cap't bone is still around he can give us his performance data with a single O/B for comparison.

I'll check my idle speed the next time I go out. There's another nice thing about digital controls (at least the Etec version)...push button throttle adjustment. I have a +/- button on the binnacle that increases or decreases engine rpm in 50 rpm increments. No need to touch the lever.

Update: Idle speed (500 rpm) yields 2 -3 knots

CamB25 · Post by **CamB25** » Mar 10th, '21, 15:30

Trim tabs might help reduce the planning speed. I hesitated to purchase before running the boat, but I might make the investment this year. I pre-rigged for tabs when doing the wiring work, etc.

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Mar 11th, '21, 08:14

I have the original tabs which were on the boat when I bought it in my storage shed, I never used them and guests cut off a few fish on them so I had removed them.

I realize with the single they may become a requirement and have also run extra wires if I were to want to install them later.

on point # 2 I am not opposed to being a little under propped as to my understanding it actually decreases load on a motor at the expense of higher RPM, the analogy being running a 5 speed standard in 4th gear, you will get to your max speed faster and have more torque but can't go as fast as if you were in 5th gear. This may be a bad analogy as some cars have an overdrive 5th and don't have enough torque to make top end in that gear.

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Mar 13th, '21, 22:25

Since I've ordered a motor I started working on the boat some more

The cabin hatch -

This one won't help me get the motor mounted but I had it on my list of stuff to get done over winter. I wanted the hatch to the cabin to be a bit larger to be able to get in and out more easy. The cut lines aren't perfect but it doesn't matter as the design for the hatch opening will cover it.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/NdA9aDWFBeKzAjis6

I posted the design a while back but here's the drawing for it
[url]https://photos.app.goo.gl/sy3m5BhxCjsPcurU8[/url]

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Mar 13th, '21, 22:54

Bolting down the Doghouse - when you've got lemons make lemonade

I made some layout lines to position the doghouse straight in the boat and then got the house in the right position then started drilling holes to bolt the doghouse down. Due to some lack of planning, I'm not sure if it was putting the cross brace under the deck too far back or when I positioned the livewell which forced me to push the doghouse further forward I ended up with the front face of the doghouse not matching up with where I positioned the cross-brace under the deck.

Does it matter? I don't think so, I figured out my driving position and I am 3" further aft of where I was before I messed with this project, I was aiming for a little further back but it is not a big deal.

for reference - here's a photo of where I had planned out a cross brace under the deck to through bolt the front face of the doghouse to https://photos.app.goo.gl/fvmBM4xukJnpfw9y8

the 2nd set of bolts in this photo are through the cross brace and the 2 sets of black marks are the extent of the cross brace
https://photos.app.goo.gl/UsF8QBs3xBQSV7dC7

I ended up putting 10 through bolts through the deck and am thinking about putting a piece of 1/4" thick fiberglass angle iron sitting on top of a piece of solid fiberglass which will match the thickness of the flange around the doghouse. If I set the L shape with the tall part backwards I could then put a piece of nida core on the back side and use that area to place some 5 gallon buckets or tool boxes to create some more storage space.

When I made the under deck cross brace, I covered some meranti plywood with 6oz cloth set in epoxy and made 2 more boards, I can cut chunks out and glue them under the deck to spread out the load of the bolts going through the deck.

I temporarily slid some old bolts through the holes and will need to purchase some high quality stainless bolts for the permanent install. In the mean time I will slide the doghouse back grind off any of the fairing compound where the doghouse will sit and wait for a warm day so I can mix up some epoxy with cabosil and glue the doghouse flange to the deck. That glue plus approximately 13 through bolts should be more than enough to hold the console down.

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Mar 13th, '21, 23:02

Doghouse windows-

I did some layout lines and stepped back and didn't like them so I drew some more. All in pencil so they should erase just fine.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/L2YG9WADaAmurBrM8

Although I put the top front radius drawing on the wrong line I got the measurements written down and will start the ordering process on monday. The setup will start at 50" above deck and go up to 75" above the deck and give roughly 25" - 2x 1" flange = 23" window opening

I will be leaving 1" in front of the side windows and 6" behind them. I wanted to leave plenty of beef behind the window to help support the top, the front corner is heavily glassed and I am not terribly worried about that area.

I am somewhat concerned about visibility when sitting on the leaning post and there being a blind spot where the 6" thick back will be but if I am one side or the other, I should only get a small blind spot from the opposite side.

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Mar 22nd, '21, 07:19

I worked for a few hours on Saturday, It was too cold to glue anything up so I did a lot of prep work

1. Cut in the holes in the dash for the Compass, Lower Switch Panel, Upper Switch Panel
https://photos.app.goo.gl/KdLQ8j2zRWV9H8mD9
2. Made some supports for the PVC tubes which will pass cables up from under the deck inside the doghouse out of fiberglass angle iron.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bd71y58SL6zexkAV8
3. Ground down and prepped the holes in the gunnels where the old radar arch attached, these holes will all get glassed in when it finally is warm enough (this took the most time and no pics)
4. Ground down and prepped the starboard fuel tank filler hole for glassing in
5. Sanded the area under the splash-well to add another layer of glass on the bottom side
6. Sanded the hull to deck joint up under the gunnels where I had excess 1.5oz mat as well as filler.

I really need a warm day so I can do some glassing and bond the doghouse to the deck with epoxy, the weather app is now showing 69 on Thursday which is my busiest day of the week work wise so I am going to have to figure out how to manipulate my schedule to give a block of time to do some glasswork.

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Mar 22nd, '21, 10:07

I'm going to have to update the paper templates which were in the dash pic....

Defender Marine had a crazy sale on B&G Vulcan 12" displays - $999 + $200 off rebate, so @$400 more is going to get me 2 12" displays vs 2 Simrad evo9 9" displays

I know the B&Gs are for blow boats, but they are from the same company Navico and have the same specs. I guess the B&G has some sailing features which can be turned off, has the same Halo20+ radar and 3-in-1 transducer.

CamB25 · Post by **CamB25** » Mar 23rd, '21, 07:34

Sounds good! I am anxiously awaiting my big box from Defender...trim tabs.

I've also ordered a new jackplate, 4" version. My 10" setback plate yields 8" of clearance to the transom module. It's an experiment with the smaller size. All my on board equipment remains unchanged, just swapping the plate/cylinder assembly.

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Mar 25th, '21, 12:30

more lunch time fun - it is 65 degrees so I can glass

I did 2 layers of 1708 underneath the splash-well where the splash-well meets up with the transom, I glassed the topside of the splash-well with all vinylester and intentionally didn't glass the bottom side as I didn't have epoxy because the wood core of the transom was glassed in with epoxy and I didn't want to try to stick vinylester to eopxy. Boring stuff so I didn't take a pic

I also glassed in the starboard side fuel filler hole, last saturday I prepped the area grinding down all the bevels, today I did 4 layers of glass on the top side and 3 layers of glass on the bottom side

hole prepped
https://photos.app.goo.gl/gRK7kZxqTdzCAVY56

glassed
https://photos.app.goo.gl/8V17XYLK98PraEN76

It will be warm tonight so after work I am going to bond the doghouse to the deck with epoxy and filler. Here's a view of what it's going to look like, also shows the cut outs from where the radar arch was.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ByMAXcoSGnWkcs4X7

Cam - I know the comment - console too far forward

- here's a pic where to show the driving position is about the same
https://photos.app.goo.gl/pWqe74GtaVq2jnfu8

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Mar 25th, '21, 12:36

Question - I am looking at the side profile pic, thinking about the radar sittitng on top of the console

Would it be overkill height wise if I put a small 5" radar mount underneath it?
https://www.amazon.com/Seaview-Radar-Mo ... 2692&psc=1

CamB25 · Post by **CamB25** » Mar 25th, '21, 13:29

I like the doghouse! These vertical structures tend to look a little goofy when the boat is sitting on trailer, but look right when the boat is floating. I was concerned about my tall T-top, but looks OK! I wouldn't have any reservations about putting the radar on the pod.

UPS is delivering my Defender boxes tomorrow. Boat is back in the driveway so I can get the tabs on, and 100 other to-do items! New jackplate will be a few weeks.

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Mar 25th, '21, 18:49

no pics tonight but another milestone crossed, the doghouse is glued down with epoxy and bolted in place, I can now start installing components into the doghouse for good

This was somewhat no fun to do by myself, I ended up putting the doghouse up on chunks of scrap 2x4s then got all the bolt holes lined up using a series of large screwdrivers to line up the holes. I then mixed up the epoxy with cabosil and put clumps of the mixture under the perimeter of the doghouse flange. I leaned the doghouse back, took out the blocks under the front, then leaned it forward and took out the blocks under the back. It did take a bit of adjusting with the screwdrivers to get it to sit right.

I did have to wait for my wife to come home to get the bolts tightened down where the nuts were in the fishbox

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Mar 28th, '21, 10:33

a few tiny steps forward and 1 GIGANTIC step backwards

I worked on my electrical panel with the goal of being able to thru-bolt the connectors and be able to take the panel off to modify it in the future. In order to thru-bolt I would need something to stand-off the sides and create a gap so I did some over engineering. I cut a strip of the material off and made strips 2"x3.5" and marked off where they would land. I laid out where I wanted the backer pieces underneath the panel then drilled through both pieces. I then took off the backer pieces and drilled the hole larger and also used a larger bit to make a depression on the back side for a T-nut to fit.

In order to screw those backer pieces in the right place I cut holes in the main panel to pass screws through it so I could assemble as 1 unit. I drilled holes in the main panel the same size as a bung hole cutter. I used scrap to cut bungs out of and will fill in the extra holes when all is ready to go.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/79sUgGFEozPVCcQX9

Now for the GIGANTIC step backwards, the marina called saturday morning and said that they now have no idea when they are going to get the motor. with their best estimate being 3-4 months from now, instead of the 3 week of April as originally promised. The guy said, the motors are built but they can't get them into the US, I guess there's something going on with shipping either in Japan or California, where the ports are not moving material, either a strike or something else.

I'm F'd - been calling everywhere, no one has motors. Been calling craigslist folks with used 2 strokes, those guys aren't selling either, they had deposits on motors and can't get them either

I'm sick to my stomach - I wanted to be on the water so bad this year and it most likely isn't going to happen until sometime in Aug or Sept

Rocket · Post by **Rocket** » Mar 28th, '21, 13:35

I'm sure it is buried in the thread, but what size motor are you looking for?

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Mar 28th, '21, 18:10

300 suzuki 30" shaft

CamB25 · Post by **CamB25** » Mar 29th, '21, 06:26

I like your electrical panel. Is that On/Off switch for house loads in addition to a battery switch? Just wondering why you need that extra switch.

Sorry to hear about the engine delay...

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Mar 29th, '21, 07:44

Cam,

Yes - more switches and yes it is overkill. To startup and run the motor one would need to turn on the switch on the transom, to run house loads one would need to switch on the switch under the console.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/iqug4iJ7qk2aZ3JR9

To combine house and engine battery systems under the deck there is a 3rd switch which will be in the battery box and will be left on in the non-combined state. A Blue seas battery relay will sense when the engine is charging and combine the battery banks. If the engine batteries were to run down, I could lift the hatch over the batteries and manually switch the middle switch to combine both banks, from what I read you can also do the same by rigging up a remote switch to trigger the relay and connect the engine to the house batteries. I do not expect to setup that electronic trigger of the relay as I am going fairly heavy on batteries and planning a charging setup when it is on the trailer.

Bruce · Post by **Bruce** » Mar 29th, '21, 10:26

Try outboard specialties in pompano. Claim to be worlds largest Suzuki dealer.

2521 N Dixie Hwy (35.94 mi)
Pompano Beach, FL, FL 33064

(954) 942-9898

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Mar 29th, '21, 12:17

Thanks Bruce,

I called and the rep said his shop is quite a bit behind getting motors as well. In further talking telling him 30" shaft motor and no preference to engine color, he said that he might be able to get me one fairly quickly. I guess there is a high demand for white painted motors and there are some black painted motors.

I'm not sure if that would entail a road trip to sunny Florida, I have no idea how ugly over-width permits would be but I haven't had a good vacation in a while, or working out something with a local dealer to ship / install. But his timeline sub 1 month.

Rocket · Post by **Rocket** » Mar 29th, '21, 13:16

Good News . My opinion on the overwidth is it is better to ask forgiveness than permission, when you are towing a boat on a trailer as a private truck you don't need to stop at the scales where they enforce the width rules. I have towed a lot of overwidth boats long distances and it has never been a problem, but that is in Canada. The main thing that you get stopped for here is the invasive species abatement program.

The other option would be to ship the motor to you and have it rigged locally.

CamB25 · Post by **CamB25** » Mar 29th, '21, 14:04

I would rig it locally. They can probably ship it to your local dealer.

ktm_2000 · Post by **ktm_2000** » Apr 12th, '21, 10:58

I've been silent on my stuff lately I feel like I got kicked in the gut with the motor procurement. The florida option for a motor is out, my local dealer thinks mid to late July - I don't even trust that............

So I still have been doing work, but fairly slowly - I've only had a handful of days above 60 to glass.

1. been wiring up switch panels and main fuse panel
switch wiring
https://photos.app.goo.gl/E3gXvhguksjaJRsg6
Main Panel
https://photos.app.goo.gl/hUqgoLKA7EwEg9FD9

2. Been patching in the holes in the top cap where the old radar arch was mounted. I didn't take a pic after glassing but here's the pic after beveling the holes and putting in a temp form for the outside glass to sit on. I did 3 layers of 1708 on the outside and 3 layers of 1708 on the inside. The inside layers spanned 2" further out than the area where the gelcoat was removed.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/pNpNn4eNKRcjjnUX7

3. Been replacing the older wooden gunnel supports with cut up pieces of my old fuel tank hatch which I had fabricated with 3/4" corecell. I have a panel which will cover the 2 full height supports and fully enclose that area.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Wc8XZqJRVXfv5i3P9

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Apr 12th, '21, 22:00

Ktm,

That side area is a VERY useful space, don't cover it up if you can avoid it.
You will restrict its usefulness even if you cover it up but allow an access hatch.
You can’t imagine what you can fit in there, just behind two or three teak strips.