Advise on purchasing B37 6V71

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » May 27th, '20, 10:54

Art kilo,

The several boats you're referring to (B37, B33, H41) are VERY different boats. Perhaps you should first finalize which attributes are top priority for you e.g. deep V vs. lesser V vs. almost flat bottom, then, gas vs. diesel, then, distance from you, then, project vs. turnkey, then, size...etc.
Once you've done that, it will be far easier to shortlist a few boats and also easier to find them.

I’m curious though, as I often visit various sites, how easy it is to find a good priced boat in the US, particularly for american made boats, compared to how much more expensive the same or similar boats cost in europe. In europe though, they are diesel in their majority.
If you are not sure what boat type to choose, ask, read, shoot questions here, we all were completely irrelevant with boat “things” and we learned many things from the ...mistakes of others!
Good luck.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » May 27th, '20, 21:43

The 33 was not a bad boat, but it was not a 31 or was it a 35. Still never figured out why Bertram built it. Was an odd size when the 35 was the go to boat for anyone stepping up. The 35 is a tank.

Check out David Pasco

https://yachtsurvey.com/boatreviews/bertram_33_sf.htm

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » May 27th, '20, 23:56

Tony,

Perhaps the 33 is not a tank like the 35.

But, the 33 is lighter, therefore more economical, it is smaller, so it can be singlehanded more easily, and then, the big advantage, especially the fb version, it has two full cabins, therefore better for a family. Here in the med where almost all boats are vacation boats with families and friends, you see more 33's than 35's.
The 35, a whole boat with just one V berth, is a lot of boat with less utility. Some have modified the bench and locker port side to make a second cabin, there is one or two for sale in Italy in this moment.
Also, the 35 came with small 320ish diesels that render it rather slow.
If I found a post '86 model 35(with the large flybridge) with 375ish diesels in good condition in Europe I'd seriously consider it.
What is pulling me back is the TONS of work I'll have to do again till I bring the boat where I want it and I'm not so fan of this type of work anymore. Tired of running after technicians...

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » May 28th, '20, 21:39

If you follow the link you will see they had a lot of good things to say about the 33. Personally anything that size or larger needs diesels to push it. The 35 was not that slow, probably a 19 knot boat at that time. With Today's diesels probably a 24 knot or better boat.

Seapalm · Post by **Seapalm** » May 28th, '20, 21:53

My B35 is a tank but with 370 Cummins it will push 31.9 knots, and the fuel gauge moves just as fast... but at 24 knots it burns 20 gal/hr. Very economical with 6 or 7 guys and fuel, ice, and the Baitwell full! And that’s about as fast as the comfort zone allows, I love this boat!

Art Kilo · Post by **Art Kilo** » May 29th, '20, 02:51

Yannis,

My first choice still is the 86 87 B37 because of it's perfect size and additions. That's in my wishlist. I'm a fisherman by blood but never got into it till now. Island boy never be too far from the seas. The B37 has all the options I'm looking for. Claims it's own right & reputation amongst it's class as one of the finest to ever run the seas. Of course the boat's soul (eng) needs another look but it's destiny rest entirely in it's keeper's hands. The 2 double birth is perfect for long fishing trip down to Baja or even when in Hawaii. I cannot stress how I have come to luv Bertrams thanks to you guys with all the knowledge and notes shared.

I'm buying this B33 to start somewhere against my uncle's advise. A marine mechanic over 26 years. This boat according to owner has a fuel tank leak glass-riveted, shaft seal, exhaust Y elbows, and swim step zinc. It's missing stove and a few cabinets corner to the sliding door. It's a bit smaller to my liking but either I do it now or never... Engines are 454 Crusaders waiting on hours & hp. Has a dingy lift on bow.

The boat currently sits at harbor for the past 6 years engines last ran 2016. Price was @$9500 but he only left it high so no crazys would low ball him. So I wanted to ask what is a good price to offer him. We haven't set a price yet. He can fix everything for 5k by September but of course price goes up. He knows his boat pretty well.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » May 29th, '20, 06:19

Hold on....he still has a fiberglass tank in the boat with gasoline???

Do some research on Fiberglass Tanks and Ethanol laced Gasoline. You can start right here on this site under "Ethanol". But don't take our/my word for it...look on other sites too.

In a nutshell-
When these boats were built fiberglass tanks were considered Lifetime Tanks, best that could be made. Then the gasoline industry was told to go green adding a higher percentage of Alcohol (Ethanol) to the fuel.
You will find lots of information on how the Ethanol in the gasoline dissolves the resin from the fiberglass. This does two things...the resin cannot be filtered out and goes through the engine where somewhere along the way is released becoming a tar-like gummy substance that sticks to and hangs up the motor's valve train causing all kinds of havoc. The other thing that happens when the Ethanol in the gasoline dissolves the resin from the fiberglass, you lose the glue holding the tank together. Fiberglass without resin is just a cloth mat.

Some have removed the glass tanks and replaced with new custom Aluminum tanks, SS and Fiberglass resin has been reformulated to deal with higher percentages of ethanol. So new fiberglass tanks could be made. Others took a different direction cutting the top off of their tanks, coated the inside with sealers or newly formulated resins, then sealed back up hoping the integrity of their tank was still good. Others, like my dad with a Hatteras and fiberglass fuel tank converted to diesel early on before the tanks really developed problems.

So if that boat still has a fiberglass tank with gasoline motors...maybe its just a small fixable leak or maybe the tank has been compromised. In any case a leaking fuel tank holding gasoline is no joke on a boat. I would NOT trust too many people to go in and "fix" the leak in the tank, especially not the seller or his "pick" unless certified in writing, even than I'd be skeptical. Tank in a 31 sits under the easily removable deck and is fully accessible and still quite a job. Check out where and how you remove a tank in a 33'. Check out prices on having a tank built, what it would cost to have the project done.

I'm thinking your starting numbers are not quite right...

Shaft seal, elbows and Y...not a huge deal, if that is the only issues. If from your surveyor, I'd be ok with that info. If that info is from the seller, I am thinking there may be more to the story that is not being told.

But don't take my word on it.

Art Kilo · Post by **Art Kilo** » May 29th, '20, 09:46

Carl,

Yep, fiberglass.. had the notion when he pointed out tank is riveted nd laminated to the boat. I read B33 forum of resin dissolve nd transferred into the engines exactly as you noted.

The engines last started in 2016 but I'm a bit skeptical of how long it ran if it did at all. Can I bypass fuel lines from engines nd hook up to portable gas gallons to check if engines run? Is that even possible? Oh yeah, he put foams in both engines in 2016. l plan to do exactly what you say to scope the leak origin. Definitely a plus to find the source rather then replacing for now but seem likely. Everyone is. And if resigns went in the engines, is that ball game for this deal or fixable? Will have to get a mechanical survey. I think he's selling "As Is". I watched "YouTube" on shaft seals and elbows I can handle that.

He does plan to remove the tank completely cutting it piece by piece and replacing it himself if he repairs everything. I'll opt to dry dock at current location and work from there. I don't want to transport it up here, when I can boat it instead once ready. Sacramento s about 390 miles north from Los Angeles.

I did search websites (still) for fuel tank & prices but come up short. If you know of a seller be much help. My offer probably is $6500 but $7000 high. One thing I like about this seller is his honesty nd sincerity for his boat. Talks about it like he don't wanna let go. He's in no rush but is selling.. elderly gentleman.

Thanks for the notes, well taken...

Carl · Post by **Carl** » May 29th, '20, 18:04

I may have been an early bird at finding out it was the tank causing MY motor problems. I'll save you the long story and jump to I was able to run my motors at cruise again on Jerry Jugs of gasoline instead of the tank. So yes you can...5 gallon pails of fuel Do Not get you far with big blocks.

That said, I thought you said motors ran ok? Why the concern?

Some glass tank seemed to have less of an issue in later years...motor only had minor hiccups.

I had 440 motors and the valves hung up. I found a way to keep them semi- unstuck allowing me to start the motors "most" of the time without bending a pushrod. BUT getting on plane just couldn't be done. I kept box"s" of extra pushrods as I was always bending them...troll on one motor while changing a rod in the other motor. Maybe not the wisest move fishing single handed...but I caught and got back.

That was 440's... bent pushrods, when I changed the tank it took about a half season to get back to running normal, but motors came back 100%.

454's Some came through ok...heard about a lot that did not. Didn't have, can't speak to them.

TANK- repairing a single spot. I would not. If it is compromised in one spot due to resin disolveing the rest of the tank can't be far behind. MY OPiNION. Spot fix- a No WAY. I believe gasoline motors can be very safe IF proper precautions and procedures are taken. A compromised 300 gallon tank of gasoline "Blows That Idea Out of the Water". No pun just serious problem in my book.

Cutting tank out piece by piece, monel fasteners...heat and gas fumes has me thinking Ain't The Best Idea.

From what I am hearing I am not in love with this seller.

Your coin, your choice, but the cliche Buyer Beware comes to mind.

I could be 100% off base with the Red Flags I see being raised.

If I recall, you worked on cars...boats can be similar, but instead of everything going wonky costing hundreds...for boats it's thousands. Go a bit bigger and thousands become 10's of thousands.

,

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » May 29th, '20, 21:52

I agree with Carl.

A boat that has been sitting for so long, even if everything was running at the time it stoped, will most probably need a lot more than what’s visible. It will most probably end up costing more than a similar in running condition.
If you start adding up all those items, from pumps to engine mounts to wiring to various systems’ updating etc you’re left with a bank account that looks a lot different while your boat is still sitting in a yard. Plus, I wouldn't want gas engines as a principle and certainly wouldn't consider going to Baha or Hawaii on them...
The seller, any seller, is not the go to person for assessing the state of things. Especially when any type of improvement work will be done far from me. I’d keep looking!

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » May 29th, '20, 23:37

From what I am reading, you are buying a hull. A 31 with no running motors is worth about 5,000.

A 33 I would say about the same. Not sure how hard it is to get that tank out. But if it has fuel in her, you probably need to get rid if it. Plus it may not just be stale gas but resin laced gas, virtually unusable.

Google aluminum fuel tanks and I am sure you will find a builder in your area. Get an estimate for a tank from them. I would say between 3 to 5 thousand.

Think new engines. I think you are into a major refit, by the time you are done I would tell you $40,000 minimum.

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » May 30th, '20, 01:36

There is a 33 on Yachtworld in NY with brand new diesels for $59.5K.
There are others too, but either more expensive or gassers.
Anyway, what I'm trying to say is that a good 33 cannot be found, or cannot be rebuilt for less than a certain amount.
The 37's go from 70k to 150k.
To that, add some additional $K's that ANY boat needs to become what you want your own boat to be...
The buying price of a boat is VERY misleading in your calculations towards what it will eventually cost you.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Jun 1st, '20, 09:25

1987 Bertram 33

NOT RUNNING project boat. Needs Fuel tank replacement, engine exhaust repair, steering service / repair. Has termite damage (plywood cockpit cabin wall). Stainless steal radar tower & bimini frame (no canvas). Simrad autopilot & Furuno chart plotter. No fresh water or black water holding tanks.

Art, you left out a few parts...

So you need to remove and replace the fuel tank, not a repair as per seller description. Boats sitting real high so looks like fuels been pulled out already, got that going for you. Sort of...I'll get to that later

Engine exhaust...if elbows or risers, not a big deal unless water was ingested by the motor.
Now between resin that WAS most likely in the old fuel run through the motors and possible water ingestion to the motors...how do you check them? Jerry jugs to get the motor started...mine usually started and idled perfectly, could run up the rpm dockside...just couldn't get the boat on plane. A compression test showed motors were damn near perfect. Take the boat for a sea trial on jerry jugs and see...bad risers and dumps can ruin a good motor if it ingests water. clogged will have your motors running hot. So we buy on faith and trust in the seller...OR plan for new or new to you motors.

Steering- service /repair...that leaves a lot to consider and kind of an important thing to have on a boat. It could be as simple and bleeding the hydraulic system OR needing a new one. IF so simple...why not just fix and not have to list in the boats classified ad?

Termite damage...so the bulkhead is shot. Not an end-all, but not a nothing by a long shot either. The bulkhead is kinda important in some boats...like the inner frame, tieing and holding things together. Plus getting rid of the termites and hoping they haven't been too hungry since last checked and moved onto other areas.

Bimini with no canvas...no problem. simple bimini a few hundred. larger more custom...kinda like for that boat, a good amount more.

No fresh or black water tank...hmm, they are cheap enough, wonder why the seller didn't just pick them up and install. Hmmm, maybe the heads not working nor was the water pumps and plumbing...

Did you notice the large amount of bridge room on the bridge. Plenty of seating room...just not helm chair. However I did notice sealed holes where one would be. Makes me wonder why it was removed, buddy of mine had his bridge go all soft on him after water got in between floor and salon roof. Sitting on helm chairs you swayed back and forth till he had a glass guy come in cut out the top portion, remove all old dry rotted wood, reglassed, finished and faired, painted... only a few grand.

I could be out of line...but it looks like your trying to buy a big, brand boat on a budget with intentions of turning it into a big game battlewagon on the cheap. There is a reason that boat is priced where it has been and why the boat has not been purchased. Believe me good deals do come up...but they Do Not hang around very long.

Let me ask you a question.

If the seller could put "JUST 5k" into the boat, right? that is what you said it would cost to fix just about everything.

If it cost him 5K to get the boat REPAIRED, why hasn't he done that? That boat is decent running condition would sell ALL DAY AT 15K , right?

Chances are good the boat would sell for even more than 15K...AKA profit. Is the seller not interested in money??? Maybe if he don't care about money he should just GIVE the boat to you.

In my eyes, the seller knows that boats going to cost a heap to fix, more then it will be worth.
He wants out, but wants to cash in too. Thats my guess.

If you're all about doing it yourself...you will dump more money into the boat than the boat is worth to get it going again. Labor aside...just parts.
You will spend all your time working on the boat and not getting to use it.

Buy something running you can afford and enjoy.
Fix it up, maybe roll it over for a profit, save up, trade up.
Someday a true good deal will present itself.

Dad mentioned something to me years ago and it still stands true.

A good deal is only a good deal if you can afford it.

Art Kilo · Post by **Art Kilo** » Jun 2nd, '20, 13:54

Carl,

How long the listing on Boat trader been?

I dealt with the owner thru fb saw his boat there. Surely he left out a few things if I might add. I wanted to question the bridge & cabin but there were allot of info over the phone so I lost track. But we are meeting end of this month. I hope he agrees to jerry jug to start engines. He hasn't mentioned any soft spots but I will bring a list when we meet. Yep fuel tank emptied.

He mentioned termites were treated but needed a second look to make sure it didnt sprung out. He stressed the huge project and I kinna understood. The 5K refers to just the tank job. I think not mentioning the other issues falls back to him stating the "huge project" few times. Looking at the boat I'd probably say he started then stopped. Had his college kids live aboard going to school. He lives 200 miles from Los Angeles nd had this boat for a while just don't have the time to repair but he's looking to buy a Egg Harbor.

Are these 454 MAG engines @what hp? Shaft seal look tired. Elbows connected?

There are few boats here in Cali that run but need transport from inland. Granted, I get my hands on a boat, making the repairs won't be too farfetched but I plan on keeping and working on it for a long time. I want one that I can fish and sell to my island community here in Sacramento. Gradually repairing as I go and of course major repairs are the essentials.

If the boat starts I can say I might buy(mechanicalsurvey). There are these highly educated guys up in the mountains overlooking Kona Hawaii with all their coffee plantations right in the backyard of their huge million dollar homes all they talk about are boats. Wanting to downsize buy & sell. I worked their farms picking coffee few times. But of course, that's another story.

Just being here I learned so much and quick !

buzzk · Post by **buzzk** » Jun 2nd, '20, 14:29

I owned a 33 FBC 1988 with 330 Cummins for years and it was a great boat.I got good speeds and great mileage out of it. I only sold it because I didn't have anyone to go fishing with me and running up and down the ladder got to be a PTA when I ran the boat single handed. I bought a 26 Regulator Express and restored it and love this boat. But now all my grand kids want to go fishing at once and there isn't enough room. So I'm looking for a original 31 Sportfish. I loved the Cummins diesels but I would prefer a gas 31 so that I don't have to buy a new lift. I've fished a lot on a Bertram 35 and it was a great boat but for a family boat I liked the cabin on the 33 FBC better.

Art Kilo · Post by **Art Kilo** » Jun 7th, '20, 21:35

buzzk wrote:I owned a 33 FBC 1988 with 330 Cummins for years and it was a great boat.I got good speeds and great mileage out of it. I only sold it because I didn't have anyone to go fishing with me and running up and down the ladder got to be a PTA when I ran the boat single handed. I bought a 26 Regulator Express and restored it and love this boat. But now all my grand kids want to go fishing at once and there isn't enough room. So I'm looking for a original 31 Sportfish. I loved the Cummins diesels but I would prefer a gas 31 so that I don't have to buy a new lift. I've fished a lot on a Bertram 35 and it was a great boat but for a family boat I liked the cabin on the 33 FBC better.

Did you run into any major issues (B33)? Engine bay room quite accessible from looking at it. I'd add a lower helm station on this boat.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Jun 8th, '20, 06:59

Art,

It's your money and time. Before you buy is the only time I can try to express to you what a Money Pit an old boat can be. Add to that an old boat with problems...

I do not know your experience or skill level with boats, but there is a learning curve.
Going in thinking "car part cost" for this and that is a mistake.
Thinking to unbolt and bolt another back on is a mistake.
Thinking a little pull, some Bondo, paint and done...is a mistake.

Do it right, with the right parts you'll have a good boat, one you could most likely sell to someone willing to buy an older boat because they like the style and build...or more often than not, someone who can't afford to buy a newer one.

Do it wrong...you'll have a project boat with lots of expensive parts and time invested.

Art Kilo · Post by **Art Kilo** » Jun 9th, '20, 04:34

Carl

Absolutely. No question. I've done allot of calling and research on parts, servicing and etc. Aquired my best buddy as my partner ownership. We plan to invest up to $15K more within the year. If I buy the boat he will hop in with little bit more then 30%. Would rather buy a running one but in Ca everything is materialisticaly overpriced. We both want to invest to fish & charter. Definitely still looking.

If I do get this B33, need to dry dock it at current location, repair "the need to" just to get it running back up and boat it up here. Found 3 mnth old 50hrs (set) exhaust manifold, riser, spacer nd elbow on craigslist for $300. Called ATL for the bladder fuel tank but they need the dimensions.. inserting it over the old tank. I sent a pix from boat trader w tank removed from a 87 B33 SF. I dont know where else to find it. Not in the manuals online. I will have to do shafts, y-elbows myself. The shop will do steerings @$100 labor. Flying my boat builder cousin from Hawaii next week to see the boat and get started on removing floors for bladder tank insertion. I'm also thinking to get black box from ATL later. After all these chart plottering nd estimations... 6K or less.

Option 2: I called local transport, hook ups $250 plus mileage @$2500. Transport owner recommended the bladder tanks to me. Shipping back to home for repairs.

But everything will fall back on the Sellers price. I'm really hesitant to move fwd with this but have to be in San Diego next week anyways. I thought giving it a look wouldn't hurt, so I'm gonna meet him LA next week. I know this boat is selling for the hull only but the return on it is pretty high here. I know it's the right make to buy just not this one. But if he sells at a reasonable price I'm looking at totalling around 13K repairs included, which project boats from here are at now.

Thank you Carl, learned much from you.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Jun 9th, '20, 09:37

Did you say the bladder would fit Over the Old tank???

How do you do that? If fiberglass resin dissolving is an issue now....you have the inside and outside of tank in contact with fuel if you encapsulate. Aside from the dirt and grime on the outside.
I have heard of people talking about cutting the top off of the tanks, removing baffles and laying a bladder inside or coating the inside of tank with some kind of sealant. I opted out of going in that direction worrying about tank integrity after being subjected to the alcohol. Maybe it worked for them without issue, I didn't follow their route to see.

You mentioned using the boat for a charter...

I have no idea how far you need to go to the fishing grounds by you...but if more than a short ride from port to the grounds your fuel bill for gasoline is going to weigh heavily on the cost of your charters and or cut into your profit.
If customers have choices, they want to get out to the most productive grounds, with the best crew for the best price.
Comparing yourself to others with go-fast center consoles or diesel economy where do you fit.

Otherwise, it seems like your doing your homework, figuring out what your getting yourself into.
That is all I was trying to convey...look before you leap.

Art Kilo · Post by **Art Kilo** » Jun 9th, '20, 15:05

That's what I've come across to date. I think this might be the other option. The military started it and still in use today. Have questions about it's confinement and this is from the website.

http://atlinc.com/atl-marine-fuel-bladd ... ation.html

We're starting out with fishing and look fwd to expand to charter later down the road maybe. The coast of San Francisco area down south to Monterey ideal trolling spots . About 30 miles out from where boat will slip. But of course it's all about location.

I really worry about the boats engines which I will push for before I meet. I do want to jerry jug it to atleast get some idea. I did asked him,
but will need to install elbows batteries and who knows... we've about a week next week from the 15th to 19th. Amble time to install. I want to get a mechanical survey I dont know if he will. Can it be done w motors not running?

Yannis · Post by **Yannis** » Jun 9th, '20, 15:51

Holly mama, going to the moon now sounds as a rookie project!

Art Kilo · Post by **Art Kilo** » Jun 9th, '20, 15:53

But then again I can always turn around and walk...keep on walking till I reach the moon! Yep can always do that....

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Jun 9th, '20, 20:46

Oh...so it's a bladder on the inside.

Looks like more work and time then just pulling and having a new tank made. No idea on price comparison.

30 mile trip with gass motors is 60 round trip.

Just tossing out some numbers....9 mpg with gas compared to 1.5 for diesel.
Run the numbers for daily trips....

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Jun 9th, '20, 21:00

I would figure on burning about 35 gallons an hour in that boat. The 31 with big blocks was around 25 to 30 an hour depending on how hard she was run. 30 miles is easily 35 gallons of fuel gone probably closer to 40. That is 80 round trip without trolling, moving spots etc.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Jun 10th, '20, 06:10

Tony Meola wrote:The 31 with big blocks was around 25 to 30 an hour depending on how hard she was run. 30 miles is easily 35 gallons of fuel gone probably closer to 40.

No wonder you went over to diesel early...I settled into a cruise of 18-19mph burning 22-23gph with my 440's.

If I had no place to be I pulled them back to a 17mph cruise at 18gph.

Running offshore with full gear, fuel, couple people and trying to get there in ocean swells that 19mph was 26-27gph.
Coming back after a long day the 26gph was a 19-20mph cruise.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Jun 10th, '20, 21:01

Carl

Those big blocks liked the fuel. I usually ran closer to 25 gals an hour. I really went over to diesel, for several reasons, Ethanol was the big one, the other was a lifter issue, and the need to replace the bulkhead behind the engines. Figured if that has to be fixed might as well jump in, keep the glass tank and fix what ever else is wrong with it.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Jun 11th, '20, 06:40

25gph I can live with, 30gph is a bit outside my comfort zone for general cruising...at least in a 31' boat. Need to be somewhere or just want more wind in the face, that's a different story.

Tank, bulkheads, deck and deck supports...all done years ago. My dad had the same idea as you Tony, he was just starting to have tank issues, his motors started running lousy with the resin intrusion and he stumbled into a Diesel deal of a lifetime. Motors were smaller, lighter, same high revving as gas with a whole lot more torque then the 440's so he had a super easy motors swap with the Steyr diesels. Pull gas motors and trans, install diesel motor and trans on same stringer mounts, add pitch to wheels, drain and clean tank, add returns and run the wire harness for new gauge panels...done in a week or two.

Glad to say my deck was finally put down again last night, a little tweaking remains as I had to raise it to clear the mufflers and gain a little room over the transmissions. I put in some big arse 12" diameter ones, hopefully, they will make the Mrs happy.
I'm thinking its the control cables. Oh, I have to wire in the starting solenoid switch, for an "optional part" its not so optional. Couldn't get motor to crank again after it started awhile back. I gave up and a buddy came by, he traced it in a few minutes to the starter wire voltage dropping after such a long run through multiple harness connections on a fairly thin wire. Jumped it and I was back in business. Funny as I bought the relays when picking up motors as they were recommended, I didn't know why...so figured after boat was in and going, I'd install. NOPE, it was a do it before.

So install relay, control cables, some kind of bolt for trans with the trolling valve, wire isolator, wire battery charger, give a good initial clean so the Mrs doesn't kill me...figure out why one gauge panel isn't working right and I might be done enough to go in. Or go in and troubleshoot panel so both motors can run without worrying about someone shutting the water, hose popping out of the bucket or whatever.

Oh...maybe put bolts holding tower to boat back in...

AND thats it...

...maybe put antenna's back on.
and the rudder zinc, bonding wires, secure the fuel lines. And thats it...

hmm, maybe bolt the shaft coupling to transmissions.....BUT Thats it.

and

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Jun 11th, '20, 19:07

the marina got a price today on one pair of 6-71 and one pair of 8-92 , wow minus 600.00 for removal of 6- 71 and 700.00 for 8-92 and thats after every bit of oil and coolant removed. labor to dispose far exceed cast iron price.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Jun 12th, '20, 06:46

bob lico wrote:the marina got a price today on one pair of 6-71 and one pair of 8-92 , wow minus 600.00 for removal of 6- 71 and 700.00 for 8-92 and thats after every bit of oil and coolant removed. labor to dispose far exceed cast iron price.

Scrap prices are so low I was paying my scrap guy to take my stuff. It still didn't make business sense for him to keep doing it and after 3 generations of being a scrapper he packed it in.

Around here...perfectly clean, separated ferrous chips are .03/lb. Not perfectly clean...they'll take it.
Aluminum .02/lb
SS .18/lb

Makes for a different business model when you pay $2/lb for a ton of material than the drums of scrap bring in .18/lb. Scrap used to be good for a nice dinner or days fishing...now it's usually enough to rent a U-Haul. Two loads and it's Hot dogs off a truck or a small container of Gulp for inshore fluke.

Art Kilo · Post by **Art Kilo** » Jun 12th, '20, 18:59

Well, got boat yard ready to transport and storage 30 miles south of Los Angeles. Ship for $500 plus storage $450/mnth. Found out I dont need cut floors to get to tanks. The damn thing is screwed on on the edges sealed but removable. Got the laser machine ready from Kona. We are going to do this the rookie way. How do I post images here? I have a photo of it. We intend to repair the fiberglass tank.

Carl, thank you even if i dont go through with this, I ntend to pursue a boat using treasure trove of knowledge from here, really appreciate it. Going down Tuesday 5hrs drive hope to come out with something good.

Got a quote from Custom Marine Tanks LLC $3500 315 gal. Boat will have to dry dock there while I work on it. It will definitely take a whole year for this project or even more. But goals to get the majors for boat to start.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Jun 13th, '20, 08:31

I'm not sure what the laser is going to be used for...but remember gasoline fumes and heat can be dangerous.

I cannot speak for all Bertram's, but when I bought mine, the owner told me something I have found very true. Remove a few screws and pull a panel or two and you can get to everything on this boat.

Sometimes it's more then a few screws and panels do not always come out easily. But compared to other boat builders where pulling a tank or motors means your cutting up a deck or the side of the boat...I'll take the Bertram.

Good luckI hope it works out well for you and your friends. If your gonna dump money and time into a boat, it might as well be one of the best boats ever made...Bertram

lobsta1 · Post by **lobsta1** » Jun 13th, '20, 12:19

Art, if you're talking about a tank in a B33 SF there is a foto with dimensions at this site. Scroll down about 6 posts. We pulled this tank from a 1985 SF. It was a 315 gal. tank. Forget the idea of a bladder inside the tank. There are 6 interior baffles held in with rivets covered with fiberglass. The tank is glassed to the fwd bulkhead & fore n aft to the outside stringers. It is also bedded on the bottom with polyester putty.
Al

https://forum.bertram33.com/viewtopic.p ... 195#p17195

Art Kilo · Post by **Art Kilo** » Jun 13th, '20, 15:05

lobsta1 wrote:Art, if you're talking about a tank in a B33 SF there is a foto with dimensions at this site. Scroll down about 6 posts. We pulled this tank from a 1985 SF. It was a 315 gal. tank. Forget the idea of a bladder inside the tank. There are 6 interior baffles held in with rivets covered with fiberglass. The tank is glassed to the fwd bulkhead & fore n aft to the outside stringers. It is also bedded on the bottom with polyester putty.
Al

https://forum.bertram33.com/viewtopic.p ... 195#p17195

Al,
Much obliged this is awesome. Any chance you have the top measurements length & width? Many thanks for the notes it's much easier to get the alum or ss. I'm sending it to Marine Tanks. Appreciate it!!

Amenendez2007 · Post by **Amenendez2007** » Dec 24th, '20, 14:57

I know the post is old but id like to bring some clarification to the history of the boat . I ended purchasing the boat on october, for less than the listed price. The boat itself although looked pretty beat up, its surprisingly in good shape. Hull, stringers, engines, generator, wiring, and gelcoat is in great shape. Sure, the wood is junk, but hey, that is what dumpsters are for. My wife and I bought the boat to do a full restore. And do a custom boat out of her. Sure, it takes years and the boatload of cash, but hey, its part of the fun and the boat is usable in the in between.

Read somewhere around the forum, that the boat had sank. Sorry but that did not happen or someone replaced every single wire, all the interior and cleaned up the oily mess really well The boat did had some high water that reached the engine oil pans but the boat itself never sank. The port engine only needed 2 injector tips to be brought back to running like new condition. Apart from a few hoses, impellers and other maintenance items, the boat is running just fine. That doesn’t mean it will stay way, but for now its working.

For now, all the wood in the interior and bulkheads have been removed, the short term plan is to repair the foredeck core (normal for bertram) and the flybridge floor around the cabin vents. (Also normal, since the core was left exposed from the factory and the a/c vents leak when it rains)

After that, we will remodel the interior to have a kitchen and a studio like interior with no divisions. Make her way more confortable.

If someone teaches me how to upload pictures, ill gladly show how the boat looks without any wood on her interior and how she cleaned up after a pressure wash and some elbow grease

HotSpot · Post by **HotSpot** » Dec 24th, '20, 16:06

Congrats on the purchase and new project!

It would be great to have another project thread started. It’s too quiet now that a couple projects have wrapped up.

Here’s a great post on how to upload pics using Imgur. I use this method and it’s rather painless, but does have a short learning curve.

http://bertram31.com/newbb/viewtopic.ph ... 92#p124892

Try it out and PM me if you need any help.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Dec 24th, '20, 21:34

Congratulations and good luck with her. Looking forward to seeing the pictures of her and the progress you make on her.

wahoousma · Post by **wahoousma** » Oct 14th, '21, 21:49

Long time member but never posted. I have a 37...wonder what ever happened? Did you buy the boat? great boat, but I hope you have some deep pockets!

wahoousma · Post by **wahoousma** » Oct 14th, '21, 21:50

Oh shit, I guess i have posted a few times...LMAO!

Amenendez2007 · Post by **Amenendez2007** » Nov 26th, '21, 11:04

Wahoousma, i purchased the boat, not the original poster. The boat went on her maiden voyage in february of this year, to a yard about 50 miles from the original location. spent on the hard there until mid summer. Did soda blasting, (not a single blister was there) barrier coat and bottom paint, replaced the rotted core on the transom, installed 6 lumitecs underwater lights, and replace all the seals, seacocks and running gear components that had some wear. (Including a shaft)

Plus a lot of miscellaneous. But runs 30 knots, as published by bertram, engines and genset are healthy as they can be for the age. Currently working on replacing the bulkheads since some of them where in bad shape. Not as big of a project as some might think, but still close to a year, worth of intermittent work, due to lack of persons willing to work

I still feel like an idiot, i dont know how to post pictures in here, tried following the instructions but no luck! If someone helps me, id be more than willing to post multiple
Pictures of the process..

Amenendez2007 · Post by **Amenendez2007** » Jun 12th, '22, 14:31

For all wondering the fate of this boat, Please join at the hull truth, i’ve been rebuilding her ever since. She has been full of headaches and setbacks, but always moving forward.

I’ve never been able to post pictures in this site

https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-fo ... d-can.html

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Jun 12th, '22, 20:08

I took a look. Holy Cow. You have your work cut out for you. Since Micky is consulting, ask him to show you how to post pics here.

This is going to be an interesting project. You bought a hull with two running engines and thats it.

Do not throw out the metal scrap. Today, wire and stuff is worth some bucks at the scrap yard.

Amenendez2007 · Post by **Amenendez2007** » Jun 13th, '22, 00:55

She had a bit more than that, Even the generator is in good working order. I’ve been selling stuff from the boat, basically got her for free, and some for my trouble. Already spent a ton, but happy with the direction. She has a really good hull and stringers. Superstructure had no wood problems.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Jun 13th, '22, 08:04

What a job, I admire your dedication! It takes a lot to push through that amount of work, we have a few members here that continue to astound me by not losing that bug to cross the finish line.

CamB25 · Post by **CamB25** » Jun 13th, '22, 08:09

Go big or go home! I love it! Though throughout my 25 re-do I wished I had a B20. Those extra 5 feet were killin' me, Smalls!

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Jun 13th, '22, 21:14

CamB25 wrote: ↑Jun 13th, '22, 08:09 Go big or go home! I love it! Though throughout my 25 re-do I wished I had a B20. Those extra 5 feet were killin' me, Smalls!

Cam

At the end of the day you would have wished the 20 was 15 foot, so be thankful for what you have and the great boat you built. It was worth it.