Windless B 28

[Capt Rex]

Well, I've been cruising in the Gulf the last 2.5 years (although tricky Nav, Everglades my fav... So full of life and relatively pristine not to mention the further S. the more tropical. Anyway, I crossed over to the Keys an the Atlantic. My stock 28 with no windless was manageable in the Gulf but this morning it took me 1.5 hrs to get the anchor up (ball didn't work as I only had 7' of water under me). I trailer my B around and am not keen on a pulpit, I don't mine going to the bow and I like simple- not opposed to old school hand crank style???

Questions: Can a windless be installed on or in B 28 foredeck using existing bow chalk? Without reinforcing foredeck? If so, brand recommendations? Since I don't have a generator & batteries are not at optimum when I typically pull anchor in the morning, again thinking electrical less.

My back thanks you if anyone has any 2 cents...

Capt Rex
B 28 '91
Fact. Volvo Diesels

[Pete Fallon]

Capt Rex,
The forward deck on a 28 is not very beefy, if you put a windlass forward your going to have to put a large backing plate to spread the load. The pull angle via the bow chock makes contact with fiberglass deck cap before it gets to the chock. Not a good set-up without a short pulpit/anchor roller. I just had a client that had a stainless steel davit installed in his cockpit near the transom so he could pull his 9.9 hp Yamaha outboard engine off of his dinghy and swing it into the cockpit. The davit was quite strong, all stainless with a swivel top section and a 3 part block and tackle set-up. He got it at West Marine and it was a fairly simple installation and it came apart and stowed when not in use. You could use it to haul your anchor and chain from the cockpit, use a quick release pelican hook with a buoy at the end of your rode, anchor from the cockpit using a fish tote or rubber basket for your line and chain, fix the short length of line through your bow chock to a cleat, bring the line back to the cockpit with an eye splice on it, when you anchor just hank you extra line to the anchor line and attach the pelican hook to the eye splice, it shouldn't be to hard to operate and I don't know how much the davit cost but it's going to be cheaper than putting a windlass, wiring, switches and battery and re-enforcing the forward deck. Just my two and a half cents worth, good luck.
Pete Fallon

[Joseph Fikentscher]

This seems to be a cheap way to go. Looks like it will work. There is a video link at the bottom of the page.

http://www.savvyboater.com/store/p/1642 ... iever.aspx

[Capt Rex]

Thanks Joe and Pete! Thinking about your plan Pete... Not crazy about keeping rode gear aft and Joe, have one, tried it but failed... Wasn't anchored in deep enough water to work and it seems to take advantage of our wonderful draft, I am more offer than not sitting in pretty shallow spots. So far, this is looking attractive:

Lofeans Royal Windless manual

Ideas to optimum hight off the deck if I make a custom mounting block for above deck with a support plate below? I haven't measured yet- will it install aft of bulkhead anchor closet access or in the anchor locker sitting pretty forward?

[Capt Rex]

Well a brief follow up, a year later I bought and returned a Lofeans Royal Windless manual... turned out much bigger than I thought and am installing this week a Maxwell Anchormax Capstan Windlass. This required bringing electricity to the bow but the size and features were the best option I could find keeping the original rope rode B 28 anchoring system.

[Yannis]

Capt Rex, here's what I did. First I removed the long and ugly pulpitt. Then I bonded the deck to the hull.



Then we measured and created this fiberglass base:

Which we then bonded to the deck:

Like so:

Then we screwed on the ss plate with the anchor roller. This pic is no good; lastly, there is a nice teak finish on top but unfortunately I don't have a pic now. I'll shoot a few and revert.

[Rawleigh]

Rex: I think that is what I have on my B31. Only problem is you have to go up on the bow to use it. Otherwise it is a clean install. I put the heavy duty switch inside my engine box. The pressure switch is on the bow where I can put my knee on it while tailing the captain.

[Capt Rex]

Thank you all for the feedback- I'm willing to go up there! That is the disadvantage of the stock system; but, I don't want a pulpit and I hate the thought of giving up the signature B running light/cleat knuckle on the bow. The installer is going to text me pix tomorrow for the location of everything... my thoughts are to try and keep it all forward in the little anchor locker so I don't have to see it/wiring in the v-berth. Didn't consider the knee- figured I could use my non-tailing hand when close to the windlass and my heel when tailing further aft. Hopefully everything will fit forward including a support plate under the windlass in the anchor compartment...

[Tony Meola]

Rex

I would love to see the final install. Please post pics when done.

I have been there, in fact there is an old Danforth sitting at the bottom of Barnegat Bay. But I never spent an hour and half. I can usually get it out by moving 180 degrees on it and backing it out.

I have never had a problem in deep water, but in high winds the Danforth just bury's deep into the mud. Last year I bent the shank on my new Danforth. Cheap junk.

[Capt Rex]

Justifying further going up to the bow- just read earlier posts in this thread- looking like a good idea to keep rope rode and hand tail the windlass via a capstan vs. chain and a helm switch. Being up there I will be able to sense the load on the winch (going to be sitting on a small teak block)/forward deck stress...

I have yet to figure out how to post pix on this sight- will look for the thread on how to do it and give it a try after the install :-)

[Yannis]

Capt Rex,

A few words about windlass wiring:
First, you don't have to see any cables; all cables pass behind the wooden cover on the starboard cabin side.
Then, you can always install up and down buttons at the helm too.
The main switch is under the cabin entrance step

[Capt Rex]

Great pictures- thanks! My '91 B is amazingly different than the '73 but the battery banks and electrical do run on that starboard side. Will try and post some photos tomorrow

[Yannis]

The pics I had promised:

[JH_B28]

Yannis,

What is the length of the anchor roller you used? I'm doing something similar...

Bonded deck to hull from the inside.

Plugged holes with d-cell foam

Grinded down the sides

Glassed a couple of layers of 1708 with epoxy.

Made a rectangular block with H-80 foam and epoxied in place.

All sanded

Thick fillets on the sides

Glassed with various layers of 1708 to achieve a uniform level for the anchor roller.

All sanded and ready for fairing.


Thanks!

-G

[Tooeez]

Capt. Rex, I have an Ideal vertical windless on my 28 with no pulpit--I run the line right through the stock bow chock. The entire unit fits inside the anchor locker, and is operated by a foot switch on the deck. I have had this setup for 25 years without a hitch. I will post some pictures tomorrow.

[Yannis]

JH,

Nice !

I don't remember the exact dimensions of the roller but tomorrow I'll go down, so I'll measure it for you.
I think I also have a spare screw with washers I'll take a pic of.

[Tooeez]

Capt. Rex, I have the photos, but I don't remember how to use photobucket to post them. If you are interested in the setup send me a pm with an email and I can get them to you that way.

[Yannis]

George,

Here are the measurements of my anchor roller:


In this first pic you see that the height of the sides of the metal support diminishes as you go aft:


The width is 10 cm:


The total width is a bit less than 30 cm:


The length of the metal (couldn't all fit as I was too close) is 50 cm to the roller axis bolt and 55 cm altogether.


I couldn't find a bolt to make an individual picture of, however, what's important is to put double washers with identical inner holes but the one on top is larger to diffuse the strain. I used bolts with a rectangular stem at the top part, that matched the rectangular holes of the roller (I'm sure there's a word in English for them but I don't seem to be competent for that). The two forward ones are the roller bolts, the other one belongs to the windlass. i used self securing nuts.


Good luck !

[Navatech]

I used bolts with a rectangular stem at the top part, that matched the rectangular holes of the roller (I'm sure there's a word in English for them but I don't seem to be competent for that).

First, your English is a LOT better then my Greek ;-)

Second, the bolts that have a mushroom "head" with a square under that are called "carriage bolts"...



There's actually a short Wikipedia article on them...

[Yannis]

Nav,

I should have thought so... We use the same words when translated !
And so that you ... improve your Greek, we call them "karovides" (pronounced: Ka-raw-vee-des, tone on the "O") ; with "karo" being the carriage and "vides" being the screws !
BTW, I saw your interest in a B28 in the "Swap and Sell" section; do you have spare time for redoing old boats or what ?!!

[JH_B28]

Yannis,

Thanks for the dimensions of the anchor roller! That should give me an idea of what i'm going to install.

I'll post some pics once i'm finished.

Regards,

-George

[Capt Rex]

Mission complete, works great and looks good! As promised, see a few photos (with any luck). One photo missing is a shut-off switch (key that can be removed when in the off position) installed in the starboard v-berth above the stock 110 outlet ('91 model). The breaker was installed in the starboard main engine compartment firewall near the battery where it was recommended the breaker be located as close to the battery as possible (my battery main shutoff's are located on the firewall under the forward center deck hatch- bypassed and Windlass has been hard wired directly to starboard battery). I wanted a quick on/off situation without having to open compartments as I often single hand and the bridge latter is over the starboard main hatch. Turns out the windlass deck switch has a cover on it so might not have been necessary but I just assume not have it live up there until used. So the breaker will always be on and I will leave the v-berth switch off until I need to use the unit. Planning on having a Sunbrella canvas cover made.

http://www2.snapfish.com/snapfish/thumb ... =snapfish/

[Yannis]

Rex,

Nice pics !
Is this a UP button at the bow?
How do you lift the anchor from the bridge? Looks like someone has to feed the chain/line into the deck hole by hand ?
Where is the anchor stored while underway?
Thanks.

[lobsta1]

Can't view fotos without signing up for a Snapfish account.
Al

[Capt Rex]

Al, didn't realize viewers have to sign up... at least its free

Yannis- yes on all your questions. I decided t o keep it stock (anchor is mounted topside on the port bow deck) which means one has to go to the bow with no helm control. The deck switch is to haul up only... my sole need when single handling and not able to use the engines to get me over the anchor. Just picked up the manual and read "Do not use capstan to pull the boat forward...". HAH! Already did and it worked fine but guess I'll have to be careful in strong current/wind conditions. If in close quarters, I leave the tackle on the deck, run up to the bridge, get the boat in elbow room water and feed the rode by hand in the locker. Like I said, old school. I tow my B 28 and don't want a bowsprit plus I really like the B signature stock bow cleat/running lights unit in the very front.

I added a photo of the shutoff switch in the v-berth and a before windlass picture with stock anchor setup on the bow... hope signing up for snapfish doesn't present an inconvenience for all...

[Navatech]

I saw your interest in a B28 in the "Swap and Sell" section; do you have spare time for redoing old boats or what ?!!

The B46 is too big if all I want to do is run the ICW and/or hang out at the local sand bar... It's also too big if it's just me who's going fishing... Furthermore, I'm required by my insurance to operate the boat with a minimum of two people...

Yes, I have my 15' Donzi jet boat and my 20' Chaparral (both trailered) but I'll gladly turn those two in for a B28... I also have a warehouse person who's underemployed...

[Yannis]

Rex,
This back and forth movement on the boat, especially when in close quarters or when windy, is very tricky.
Just because I imagined myself, or someone else, overboard, I redid the bow rail so that it leaves room for my feet to pass freely from the tight "rail-window" passageway, and I increased the length of the hand rail on the sides of the bridge.
It is very practical, also, to be able to command the windlass, up AND down, from the bridge.

but I'll gladly turn those two in for a B28...

...and I thought you'd keep the 46 in FL and bring the 28 in the Med...

[fonsim]

Capt Rex, here's what I did. First I removed the long and ugly pulpitt. Then I bonded the deck to the hull.



Then we measured and created this fiberglass base:

Which we then bonded to the deck:

Like so:

Then we screwed on the ss plate with the anchor roller. This pic is no good; lastly, there is a nice teak finish on top but unfortunately I don't have a pic now. I'll shoot a few and revert.

Good afternoon

I'm a new memeber and a new owner of a Bertram 28 Flybridge.
Yannis Did you have the measurements of this? I want to do the same for my boat. Did you have a final picture with the roller on it?

Thanks

[Yannis]

Fonsim,

If you look into my posts of May 9th and May 13th you'll get the info you're asking for. Is there any addl info you want?

[fonsim]

Yannis,

Thanks for the help.

[Yannis]

JH George,

I solved the anchor/hull issue by putting a new hole 3-4 cm forward (and a bit lower), on the pulpit.
This leaves a good two fingers clearance between anchor tip and hull.
Hope this helps.

[JH_B28]

JH George,

I solved the anchor/hull issue by putting a new hole 3-4 cm forward (and a bit lower), on the pulpit.
This leaves a good two fingers clearance between anchor tip and hull.
Hope this helps.

Nice Yannis! Thats an excellent fix and cheap too. LOL.


Thanks!