Hynautic steering help

[JimmyG]

I have a Hynautic H-25 3 line system (helm, reservoir,relief valve and ram http://www.seastarsolutions.com/product ... autic-new/) i ripped out the old copper tubing but i'm really confused with what type nylon hose to use everything I read says to use 1/2 under 40' the Seastar 3/8 od with brass nut/ferrel fits right on everything and has a 1000 psi working pressure....can I use that? I can get it with pre made ends and lengths or get it in a 75' roll and slide on the brass nuts...any suggestions?

[Navatech]

It never hurts to use hydraulic piping that's over rated for the specific application... The reverse is another matter altogether!...

As to using 3/8" instead of 1/2" lines, the only effect that will have is that it will take more hydraulic fluid to fill the complete system... Once the system is filled and closed it won't matter things in any significant way... The helm will still propel a certain amount of hydraulic fluid for each revolution and, due to Pascal's Law, that same amount will end up in the cylinder (a.k.a. steering ram)...

One area where there could be some problem is where the pressure is so high that a certain expansion of the lines occurs (thereby reducing the amount of hydraulic fluid reaching the steering ram) however, that doesn't apply in this application... The pressure would be too low for anything like that...

FWIW, I would get the roll, run the lines, cut them to size (actually, I'd cut about 2" oversize on each end) and then take them back to the shop for final cutting and pressure fitting of the ends... Also, if you think you might put in an AP (a.k.a. Iron Mike) now would be a good time to install the T's... You can close them of with a valve and put a cap on the open end for added safety...

[Kevin]

Jimmy,
My lines look like plastic/nylon tube very similar to the tube used on my trim tab system. The steering tubing is just larger. I do not know the proper terminology for the brass connectors, but it is a nut and ring that slides onto the line itself locking it on as you turn the nut. Compression fitting I guess? You can cut the tubing with a razor to get the exact lengths you need for you runs.
I would just get a roll of the stuff and start making your own. I thought it was easy and have no hydraulics experience.

When I installed the auto pilot I just cut the lines and installed T fittings to hook up the pump. Hope this helps.

[Pete Fallon]

JimmyG,
The closed system Sea Star is the most common ones I see when surveying 31' Bertrams, most have 3/8" plastic tubing with a outer braided plastic jacket and bronze fittings. The system is closed so you don't need to keep pumping up the hydraulic tank. The helm that Marlin Younker used for his 31 was a Sea Star model BA 135-7 ATM ram with a 1.7cfm helm pump. Just make sure that when your new helm goes in that it has 3 outlets so that you can add a auto pilot or a second station later on. The common helm pump is a HC 5352 model. Like Navatech said measure on the long side and most use compression type fittings. I had the old chain drive system in my boat until the mid 90's, I changed it out to a closed system with 3/8" lines and a small ram.
Pete Fallon

[John F.]

I redid all of my other B31's (Anna E) copper steering lines with SteerStar steering tube 502 (3/8" OD, 3/16" ID), and used the slip-on compression fittings that Seastar sells. It worked fine. I was able to cut the tubing to exact length after running it through the boat. The fittings worked fine, and most important, it never leaked or gave me any problems at all.

[White Bear]

One of the first things I did was to replace all of the original copper tubing with new lines made up in my shop using bulk nylon tubing and compression fittings. After the first one or two to get the process down pat, the job was a snap; almost fun. Once it was done, I questioned if it was really necessary since the old lines, although looking bad on the outside were really still quite sturdy. Almost fifteen years later, I'm glad I did the job for peace of mind and I still have yet to add air to the system due to a loss of pressure.

[JimmyG]

Thanks guys, great help as usual. I ordered pre cut made up lengths 3 weeks ago so I think i'll just cancel the order and get the coil. I already had the t's for the auto pilot capped off and ready to go….just started reading and second guessing myself.

[CaptPatrick]

Jimmy,

I ran into a problem on Hancock's B31... One coil of the 3/8" hydraulic line wasn't enough to complete a 2 line Seastar run. I had to order another coil, (supplier won't just cut the necessary remainder), leaving me with a lot of excess. You're running 3 lines with the resorvalve. You will probably also need 2 coils...

Buy and install the first coil, measure what more you need and I may have enough to finish your's out.

[JimmyG]

Jimmy,

I ran into a problem on Hancock's B31... One coil of the 3/8" hydraulic line wasn't enough to complete a 2 line Seastar run. I had to order another coil, (supplier won't just cut the necessary remainder), leaving me with a lot of excess. You're running 3 lines with the resorvalve. You will probably also need 2 coils...

Buy and install the first coil, measure what more you need and I may have enough to finish your's out.

I purchased 2 auto pilot/second station kits for there "T's" and it comes with 20' of tubing each so I should be ok, Do you have any suggestions on where to mount the proportion valve?

[CaptPatrick]

Jimmy,

By proportional valve, are you referring to the resorvalve?

Space is always a premium on the B31, and from a system point of view, the placement of the resorvalve is totally optional. Just look for a space that is dry, out of the way, and accessible...

[JimmyG]

Jimmy,

By proportional valve, are you referring to the resorvalve?

Space is always a premium on the B31, and from a system point of view, the placement of the resorvalve is totally optional. Just look for a space that is dry, out of the way, and accessible...

They call it the "Quick air purge relief valve" I imagine it should be near the tillers

[Bruce]

They recommend 1/2 tubing so it doesn't interfere with the flow rate specs. By using smaller tubing you may experience more turns of the wheel to hard over than what they may state as specs. Pressure also increases slightly using smaller tubing.

That system is much more than what the 31 needs.

[JimmyG]

They recommend 1/2 tubing so it doesn't interfere with the flow rate specs. By using smaller tubing you may experience more turns of the wheel to hard over than what they may state as specs. Pressure also increases slightly using smaller tubing.

That system is much more than what the 31 needs.

Bruce, my question is will it work? It's the original system from when it was built in 1980 and it had 3/8 copper, I rebuilt the helm and replaced the reservoir and valve.

[JP Dalik]

Hynautic is simply the best system on the market in my opinion, so much so that when we built the 2001 silverhawk we had it installed.
I would not use anything else. Get a Mesco or Kellogg book in the back is the Parker style hose and reusable fittings, maybe near the racor fittings. The fig would start with "hyn" followed by a number. Like capt Pat said you can put the resorvalve anywhere that it fits

[Bruce]

On that system if it were me I'd use the sea star hose with reusable fittings not the 3/8 od tubing and compression fittings.

The other would be for the black Sea Star helms without using a pressure tank where the helm stores the reserve fluid.

As far as mounting the tank/valve or the separate tank and valve there are preferences. The main being that valve whether separate or with tank needs to be above the ram to aid in bleeding. On larger boats like in the mid 40 and up it does make a difference where things are mounted. On the 31 you can get away with taking liberties because of the light steering load and size.

[my other east]

If one was going to use a teleflex steering cable, would it be with or without "feedback"?