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31 Bertram Windshield

Posted: May 8th, '08, 09:10
by Capt. Chad
We are looking to replace the original cracked windshield (curved one on flybridge) on my friends 1970 31. Does anyone have any recommendations where to get one reasonably close to New Jersey? Thanks again!

Posted: May 8th, '08, 09:49
by CaptPatrick
Chad,

There's only one place for an aftermarket replacement of the original flybridge windshield... Mine. Ships out of Florida.

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Br,

Patrick

Posted: May 8th, '08, 10:38
by ZeroCavity
Capt.Patrick's windshield= the BEST !!!!!



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Posted: May 8th, '08, 10:50
by Ironman
Sweet..Got any pics of the rumble seat & back of the bridge area... How do you get up there?
steps?deck looks nice too
Wayne

Posted: May 8th, '08, 10:55
by ZeroCavity

Posted: May 8th, '08, 10:58
by Capt. Chad
Thanks alot guys, I will pass the info along.

Posted: May 8th, '08, 18:18
by hubris 1
zero cavity, that boat's a million! i could look at that all day. beautiful job.

Posted: May 8th, '08, 18:53
by jspiezio
OT- ZC or Capt Pat would you guys explain how you reinforced the Bridge deck to take the weight of the rumble seat. With someone of my girth that is a lot of force coming down when your in a chop!

Posted: May 8th, '08, 21:19
by CaptPatrick
jspiezio wrote:OT- ZC or Capt Pat would you guys explain how you reinforced the Bridge deck to take the weight of the rumble seat. With someone of my girth that is a lot of force coming down when your in a chop!
John,

It's all weight distribution through the pipe work... If you'll notice on Gerry's boat, there is vitrually no weight being transmitted to the aft overhang other than near the sides where the bridge coaming meets the bridge deck. This is a major structural point, with forces being distributed back up the coaming; super strong... The configuration of the pipe work gives 6 places for the weight to be distributed to.

Br,

Patrick

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Posted: May 8th, '08, 22:51
by jspiezio
Ah yes, Grasshopper sees now........

Posted: May 10th, '08, 06:25
by nordeng
Dumb question, but I'll ask it anyway. I see the windlass on the bow but no anchor. Where do you store your anchor and how do you drop it and retrieve it with the bow chock there? I'm looking to purchase a 31 but I do a lot of cruising with my family and anchor off a lot. Most renovated 31s don't have provisions for this. What's the best way to do this and still keep the aesthetics of the boat? By the way, your boat is absolutely beautiful.

Posted: May 10th, '08, 09:56
by In Memory Walter K
For those who don't want the anchor on the bow, or to anchor from the bow, or have no windlass, you should consider the Northeast charterboat method that keeps the anchor in the cockpit. The line is kept in a basket in the cockpit, too but first its run through the bow chock and tied off at the desired length for anchoring at the mid-boat cleat. The anchor is dropped off the side while backing. Midway or towards the end of the drop, a floating ball attached to an anchor ring is slipped over the line and thrown overboard. It will float forward of your boat while anchored. When time comes to go, you run up on the ball to one side of the boat. The ball keeps the line up as you pass it so it can be grabbed by a boat hook. Keep running, the ball slides down the anchor rope till it's right over the anchor and your forward motion pulls up the anchor and the ring slips over it's shaft. Boom-the anchor is floating by the ball. Stop the boat and haul in the floating ball and anchor, throwing the line neatly back in the cockpit basket. A ball and anchor ring cost a lot less than a windlass and never rust or freeze up. For whatever it's worth. Walter

Posted: May 10th, '08, 10:06
by CaptPatrick
Walter,

That's is the technique I endorse also...

Br,

Patrick

Posted: May 10th, '08, 10:26
by Carl
I would only add:

Don't run forward "too enthusiastically" when the ball is doing it's thing, if the anchor should get fouled and not release a whole lot of stress is put on the cleat and transom.

But it is the cats meow method of pulling an anchor from deep water.