The rudders

Capt Dick Dean · Post by **Capt Dick Dean** » Dec 13th, '07, 16:29

The tie rod that connects to each rudder arm has rusted out but I still have a foot or so on each arm. The center of the rod went.

I can't get at the arm to get that small piece off as the rudder platform is in the way.
It looks like I will have to drop the rudders down just enough to slide off the arm.

The question is: is there a better way?

Thanks.

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Dec 13th, '07, 17:23

Dick,

Sounds like you have the 28 style shafts, with the tiller arm below the shelf... No easy way, just whatever works for your setup. If you ever decide to rebuild your shelf & go with my rudders, I can have them made so that the shaft still sizes to your 1 1/4" rudder port, but the tiller arm would be on top & above the shelf. Makes life much more plesant...

Br,

Patrick

Oh, & BTW: Do yourself a favor & have the new tie rod made from stainless steel, either heavy wall tubing or solid.

Mikey · Post by **Mikey** » Dec 13th, '07, 19:44

Patrick,
Speaking of rudders as we were, since there are grease fitting on the rudder housing (don't know the proper name for it) am I suppose to grease those things? Seems reasonable and logical. If so what do I use and how much?

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Dec 13th, '07, 20:06

Mikey,

We may not be on the same page, but if you're calling the "rudder housing" the bronze tube through the hull that the rudder shaft goes through, that's a rudder port. I've never seen a zerk, (grease fitting), installed on a port.

The packing, if your rudder port has the large hex head cap nut, is above the rudder port, inside the cap nut, and tightening down on the cap squeezes the packing against the top of the tube thereby compressing the packing against the rudder shaft.

So if there's a grease zerk on the tube, it's vitually meaningless. If you want to fill the tube with grease anyway, use a marine grade water proof axle bearing grease. Other than if your out of the water, you won't be able to see when excess grease starts pushing out at the bottom of the port.

Br,

Patrick

JP Dalik · Post by **JP Dalik** » Dec 13th, '07, 21:30

Mikey are you talking about the rudder bearings that sit on top of the shelf. They have a zerk fitting in them and should be greased from time to time. Be sure to coat the rudder shaft with your favorite grease or never seize type product so that in case you ever have to drop the rudders they come down without heat or hammers.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Dec 14th, '07, 07:50

Guys looking to save a buck on having a Jockey Bar made, I will offer to let them supply me with an old bent/worn prop shaft. Cut to size, machine the ends and your good to go.

Eddy G · Post by **Eddy G** » Dec 14th, '07, 09:27

I wish I had changed mine to the tiller on top style when I replaced my rudders with Capt. Pat's years ago. The tiller under the shelf style is a bitch when you have to drop the rudders or even adjust the packing. It would have required some doing to convert over, but I see now it would have been worth it.

Eddy G.

Mikey · Post by **Mikey** » Dec 14th, '07, 10:22

Rudder port, ah!
That's it. In the side of each of mine is a zerk. If not for grease what is the purpose? Why a hole at all? Weird.

davidms · Post by **davidms** » Dec 14th, '07, 10:58

Patrick,

I don't want to hijack Capt. Dean's thread, but Patrick, could you explain the differences in performance between your rudders and the standard B31 rudders?

Thanks,

David

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Dec 14th, '07, 11:20

David,

Depending on which style blade your original rudders have, the difference is much better steering & astronomically greater steering... Over 150 B31s now wear my rudders & not a single complaint.

Full rundown on my rudders is at http://bertram31.com/parts/rudders/

Br,

Patrick

Preston Burrows · Post by **Preston Burrows** » Dec 14th, '07, 12:34

Dick:

The last time that happened to me I through bolted a wood dowel to join the 2 sections of the tie bar tie bar either side of where it had rusted through........
That was Plan B while I figured out plan A - and I was surprised how long that piece of wood dowel lasted............

Rawleigh · Post by **Rawleigh** » Dec 14th, '07, 14:34

Mikey: Mine has them too.

Vince Luciani · Post by **Vince Luciani** » Dec 14th, '07, 14:54

Mikey and Rawleigh, I got them also. I replaced mine with stainless steel.

Mikey · Post by **Mikey** » Dec 14th, '07, 17:51

Patrick
I'll try to remember to take the camera and get a picture to post.
Still puzzled.

Brewster Minton · Post by **Brewster Minton** » Dec 15th, '07, 08:45

I have the zerks on mine. They were there when I got the boat.

Capt Dick Dean · Post by **Capt Dick Dean** » Dec 15th, '07, 11:17

JP,
Your pic is so good - my rudder arm to the tie rod is the same. One piece going into a bigger pipe with two small bolts on the top side just off the arm. But the bolts are not through the pipe. So how are they put in ( and do they come out - I have CX all over everything. The tiny bolts are rusted badly. I might cut them with a hacksaw and punch them inside.)

This is big problem -- my baby's broken.

Preston - The steering went out in June. I, too put in a wood dowling and used hose clamps to secure it. And that was to hold it for the season. We went to AC and Montauk like this and the rest of the summer and Fall. Now it's plan B. We're thinking the same. Maybe this is good. Or bad.

Mikey · Post by **Mikey** » Dec 16th, '07, 11:05

Here is the port Zerk.

bertram31.com

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