Two different Engine Beds for diesel repower? Which is best?

The Main Sand Box for bertram31.com

Moderators: CaptPatrick, mike ohlstein, Bruce

Post Reply
User avatar
fishlook
Posts: 70
Joined: Nov 9th, '09, 20:30
Location: Port Aransas Texas
Contact:

Two different Engine Beds for diesel repower? Which is best?

Post by fishlook »

I looked at two 31's today and saw too different ways to set up the engine beds......... your thoughts would be appreciated!

1. The first boat fabricated aluminum mounts that are bolted to original stringers which engine mounts attach

Image

Image

2. the second boat had stringers that appeared to be built up with glass and wood and then engine mounts bolted to that assembly.

Image
User avatar
CaptPatrick
Founder/Admin
Posts: 4161
Joined: Jun 7th, '06, 14:25
Location: 834 Scott Dr., LLANO, TX 78643 - 325.248.0809 bertram31@bertram31.com

Post by CaptPatrick »

The first example is using ramps, which gives you far easier access to the bilge below the engine. See also: Engine Installation in the tips section...

Image
User avatar
fishlook
Posts: 70
Joined: Nov 9th, '09, 20:30
Location: Port Aransas Texas
Contact:

Post by fishlook »

thanks capt pat. i've looked at that engine installation section a dozen times.......amazing what i forget!
User avatar
JP Dalik
Senior Member
Posts: 1317
Joined: Jun 30th, '06, 21:03
Location: Pt. Pleasant NJ
Contact:

Post by JP Dalik »

Neither one is wrong. Using the aluminum ramps allows more room to get under the engines for cleaning (there are really no service items below the middle of the block on Cummins)

As long as the engine mounts run at the horizontal engine plane both versions of engine mounting are acceptable. You don't want angled engines and flat mounts.

Capt Pat uses the aluminum ramps. Our boat has the more traditional mahagony stringers with mahagony ramps. Don't be afraid of either.
KR


JP
1977 RLDT "CHIMERA"
User avatar
Bruce
Site Admin
Posts: 3785
Joined: Jun 29th, '06, 12:04
Location: Palm Beach Gardens, Fl.

Post by Bruce »

there are really no service items below the middle of the block on Cummins)
Except the pan drain plug or if one has it an oil change kit. Both of which over the years I've had to repair leaks at. Twice had to pull an engine to replace the drain plug gasket due to high/narrow stringer sides.

Just a thought.

Also on some of the newer models a good part of the electrical is just above the pan.
Joef
Senior Member
Posts: 103
Joined: Jul 11th, '06, 13:16

stringers

Post by Joef »

Capt Pat - how far down can you cut a stringer. I guess bewteen the sister stringers and the aluminum cap, you probably added much more strenth to those stringers on Buddy Boy that you removed when you cut them down?

...just askin cause 2 years ago one of the ZF225 trannies went on my boat. These are the same as the ZF 220s but with a 5degree downangle vs 10degrees. ...luckily the ZF guys in Rhode Island found the required parts - but i was almost faced with re-doing my engine beds to accomodate the 220s. ...actually would have worked out as i have room under the front of my engines to lower them the requried amount - but i was certain it would have required lots of "stringer cuttin"

Joe
User avatar
CaptPatrick
Founder/Admin
Posts: 4161
Joined: Jun 7th, '06, 14:25
Location: 834 Scott Dr., LLANO, TX 78643 - 325.248.0809 bertram31@bertram31.com

Post by CaptPatrick »

Joe,

The inboard stringer were left original and sistered at that hieght. The outboards were built up with a 7º angle to complement the 8º down angle of the transmission shaft. No reduction of the original stringers at all...
User avatar
bob lico
Senior Member
Posts: 5276
Joined: Jun 29th, '06, 19:22
Location: sayville,long island

Post by bob lico »

joe funny you should say that my outside stringers go to 1/2" with zf irm 220 gears.
capt.bob lico
bero13010473
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot], Google [Bot], micky and 97 guests