Teak Work Questions?

[amuh60]

Have pulled all quarter round off boat and begun the sanding process. Started to sand the window frame in place. The drawers, and door frame are in good shape. Should I varnish or paint(white) the wood? If I should varnish directions would be greatly appreciated. Also, any pointers on the sanding process (ie. grit paper, etc.).
Thanks, Andy

[Harry Babb]

Personally, Andy, I like the varnish. Its a lot of work and up keep. Although my varnishing experience is limited I have had accepatable results by applying many many thin coats then rubbing with steel wool between coats.

A friend just refinished the front door on his house using Bristol Finish urethane. I am pretty sure it is a 2 part catalyzed urethane.

I intend to use the Bristol Finish product on wood work on my boats....if I ever get to that point.

Good luck

H

[Marlin]

teak is work but beautiful, you have to comit to annual or semi annual preventive maintaince so you can avoid what you now are faced with. I would sand with 80 only after I mask off adjacent areas.You will probably need to bleach the entire area maybe several times to get back to a uniform color. Resand the teak because the grain will probably raise rrom the bleaching. Varnishing tips can be found on capt pats'Teak Bubble" I think"I have a rybovich which has teak everwhere, inside and outside, and use the awlgrip system. Find them online they have a great small pocket guide as well. We recently redid the transom. 10 coats of varnish, sanded after 5th coat and last coat with 320 wet paper, 2 coats per day. Then2 coats of albrite sanded with 320 tacked and final coat. will only have to scuff up once a year and recoat.You may consider a teak oil for the exterior stuff, experiment with products to get the color or effect you like. I use a product called Miracle teak on my decks and covering boards because it leaves a very natural look , some like the darker teak oil look, We recoat the teak once a month by applying with a rag, I'm in the south and the sun is tough. Don't wait untill the teak starts to show abuse or wear, ever 6 months if varnish or clear

[Buju]

Depends on how thoroughly you wanna redeux the teak...

If you just want to freshen it up, and be done then I'd:
*Scuff up the peeling areas by spot sanding them with 80grit, by hand, then follow up with 120.
*Using a small foam brush, apply varnish in any & all bare areas which have been sanded, and let dry.
*Then sand all surfaces with 220, and wipe clean w/ a tack rag or min. spirits..
*Apply varnish to all teak.

If you want to genuinely refinish it then:
*Remove all old finish off of the teak, by either chem. stripping, or abrasives.
Stripping will require a great deal of masking (masking for sanding doesn't do much, except let you know where your gelcoat/paint is scratched) OR remove all of the teak trim if its just a matter of unscrewing it. I'd recommend removing it, not only will it be much easier to work with, you'll also be able to properly address the ends, sides, and back of each piece.
If you strip in place, use a thick product, like Savogran Superstrip...and be sure to use bronze wool in place of steel wool, and wipe all of the teak down with mineral spirits to neutralize the stripper, once it is stripped.
*Sand your bare teak down with 120grit.
*Follow with 220grit.
*Wipe clean
*Apply varnish

The application schedule and methods are dependant on what product you go with...

I've used that Bristol finish quite a bit, on a 48 Pacemaker (posted the pics here a year or so back). It is a 2 component acrylic urethane... And is a good product. The only negative aspect I noticed about it, is after years of UV exposure, it darkens considerably- and that is with annual maintenance coats. Which leads to a total refinish again.

I'm a big fan of the Epifanes lineup. Three or four coats of Rapidclear, topped with 1 coat of Wood Finish Gloss

Also really like the longevity and finish of the Petit 1015 Capt. Varnish.

Or, perhaps just oil it, and apply new oil every couple months...