I got my trim off the front curved windows on my B31. I pretty much had to pry everything apart. I went pretty slowly, and the trim held its shape. However, the track on the inside of the trim where the T-bolts went is a wreck--corroded and not much left for new T-bolts to bite on.
The only alternative I can think of is to drill through the trim and through-bolt. Not that big a deal to me, but I do like the cleaner, original look. Any ideas?
More (last?) on aluminum window frames
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- CaptPatrick
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John,
Assuming that you're still going to paint or powder coat, I'd go ahead and drill for a through bolt.
If you want to stay flush on the outside, (this'll be a pain in the ass, but it will work), set the frame back into place and lined up the way it needs to be with no t-bolts. Tape it across in several palces to get the adjustment right & then tape over & along the frame with 2" tape. Lots of it, to really lock it in place.
Using the holes inside as a guide, and making sure that your drill bit is aimed right, drill each hole with a 5/32" drill bit. Once done, remove the frame & tap each hole for 1/4-20.
Using overly long 1/4-20 aluminum screws, run the screws in to the right depth. After all of the screws are placed, back fill around the screw, inside of the frame, with J-B weld or similar.
Once the epoxy hardens, you can cut the head off of the screw & sand the stub flush with the outside of the frame.
When you reinstall the frame with the new plexi, you'll still use the stainless steel acorn nuts inside, but put a dab of TefGel on each screw and under each nut to issolate the dissimilar metals.
Br,
Patrick
Assuming that you're still going to paint or powder coat, I'd go ahead and drill for a through bolt.
If you want to stay flush on the outside, (this'll be a pain in the ass, but it will work), set the frame back into place and lined up the way it needs to be with no t-bolts. Tape it across in several palces to get the adjustment right & then tape over & along the frame with 2" tape. Lots of it, to really lock it in place.
Using the holes inside as a guide, and making sure that your drill bit is aimed right, drill each hole with a 5/32" drill bit. Once done, remove the frame & tap each hole for 1/4-20.
Using overly long 1/4-20 aluminum screws, run the screws in to the right depth. After all of the screws are placed, back fill around the screw, inside of the frame, with J-B weld or similar.
Once the epoxy hardens, you can cut the head off of the screw & sand the stub flush with the outside of the frame.
When you reinstall the frame with the new plexi, you'll still use the stainless steel acorn nuts inside, but put a dab of TefGel on each screw and under each nut to issolate the dissimilar metals.
Br,
Patrick
- Harry Babb
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John
Like Pat said "its a pain in the ass"..........but if you can find a local welding/machine shop you can clean and add weld material to the corroded area then using a Bridgeport mill just recut the Tee Slot.
I cannot imagine why but Bertram used bronze toilet base screws to fasten the aluminum frames to the boat............not a good idea.
I used 1/4" SS carriage bolts to fasten the aluminum ring back to the glass frames as well as to fasten the aluminum frames to the boat. You will have to belt sand 2 flats on the carriage bolt to make it fit the frames like the tee bolts.
Not exactly easy but another option
Harry Babb
Like Pat said "its a pain in the ass"..........but if you can find a local welding/machine shop you can clean and add weld material to the corroded area then using a Bridgeport mill just recut the Tee Slot.
I cannot imagine why but Bertram used bronze toilet base screws to fasten the aluminum frames to the boat............not a good idea.
I used 1/4" SS carriage bolts to fasten the aluminum ring back to the glass frames as well as to fasten the aluminum frames to the boat. You will have to belt sand 2 flats on the carriage bolt to make it fit the frames like the tee bolts.
Not exactly easy but another option
Harry Babb
hb
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