Awlgrip question

[dcasey10]

those of you who have awlgriped your hull... How much paint did it take to do 3/4 coats?

I am spraying ice blue on and only have one gallon of paint right now


How does one fix spots like a dead bug or some small are of runs? just reshoot that area?


DJ

[CaptPatrick]

DJ,

Are you shooting true Awlgrip or Awlcraft 2000?

[dcasey10]

It's normal Awlgrip, I have 1 gallon of it, looking to do 3 coats on the entire hull

[CaptPatrick]

DJ,

"Regular" Awlgrip is a non-repairable top coat, meaning the final surface sprayed is what you get and live with; bugs, fish-eyes, sags, dead spots, etc. Coverage is 210 sq ft per gallon. A B31 hull, guard rail to waterline, is about 175 sq ft, so just under a gallon per coat.

Let me suggest that you shoot the "Regular" Awlgrip first, allow it to cure for 2 days, lightly, but completely, sand with 320 grit paper, and finish with Awlcraft 2000. The Awlcraft is a repairable top coat that, after curing for 3 months, can be wet sanded, buffed, polished, and sealed, thereby removing imperfections in the surface...

As a repairable/maintainable top coat, you'll want to lightly compound and re-seal the surface every year or two. You'll be able to blend in any battle scars without any difficulties. Not so with "Regular" Awlgrip...

Also see:

http://www.boatpaint.co.uk/acatalog/act ... _sheet.htm

http://www.awlgrip.com/products/topcoat ... -2000.aspx

[IRGuy]

Captain...

I read somewhere that "regular" AwlGrip lays down with the pigment migrating to the bottom and a sort of clear coat migrates to the top, so when it dries it is actually like two coats.. hence it is difficult to touch up. AwlCraft 2000 is more like a regular paint with everything dispersed throught the thickness of the coat.

[CaptPatrick]

Frank,

Exactly. Awlcraft 2000 was developed to be a direct contender with Imron...

[dcasey10]

Well I cannot return the ice blue awlgrip... so thats a problem.

The rub rail up is already done in matterhorn awlgrip and there are only 3 spots on the entire shoot that are getting to me, one being a bug, on the flybridge very top, on the area right below where the windshield goes, I am going to tape it and plastic off the rest of the boat and shoot that again after sanding it lightly, the other areas are right below the side windows to where non skid will run along the deck, I may live with these small runs on this spot. Considering it was done in a home made shrinkwrap shed not a paint booth, by someone who has not used awlgrip before it looks great, it would have been painful rolling and tipping it too.

[Michael]

Think you will find that the bug will disintregrate in short order, leaving a bit of a small crater where it once was. This will not be visible from 15'
As for runs, as the Capt has said, Awlgrip not really repairable. One of the reasos I now use Imron.
I find spraying Awlgrip tough as it is soo runny and it takes real will power to not go back over a spot you feel is too thin. Best to just apply another coat.
I would think 1 gallon of paint would do. When mixed you will have 2 gallons.

[Michael]

The awlgrip coverage of 210sq ft is at the dry film thickness, which is usually about 3 coats, not the coverage of one coat. So it is my opinion that one gallon should be more than enough to paint the hull sides of a B31.
I painted mine with Imron, bought a gallon and still have lots left over, and I applied 3 coats

[dcasey10]

I am kinda already wishing I got the awlcraft 2000. Thanks for all the tips guys. I hope the hull will come out nice the final shoot, fingers crossed. From there on out its going to be treated like my baby, not only because it is but to keep that hull nice. Nice soft fleece fender covers are going on all my fenders.

[ljmauricio]

Michael is right. No full wet coats! Multiple light coats are better. My son painted boats for a living years ago, and he calls it Awl Drip.

[Marlin]

Awl grip needs to be sprayed like old fashion car enamels, spray a mist/fog coat, let set maybe 1/2hour, u can do a stickiness test on either the masked area or I use a separate test panal that I spray simultaneously ,temp/humidity will dictate when to apply the second heavier coat, this coat may still not cover old dark areas, same test 1/2hour latter, spray on the third coat with a heavier mileage than the second. Some spray up/down, I prefer to spray on a horizontal pattern, always keeping the spray pattern 90 degrees to the surface, don't fan the gun, I pre mark the masking tage in 3foot sections and spray those zones, remark with a sharpie again for the second coat but allow for overlap by staggering the marks/spray pattern, do the same for the 3rd coat,helps eliminate skips, dry spots, and most importantly ,runs. I use this method when rolling/tipping as well,I learned this the hard way many decades ago. You almost spray like a robot, they are programmed to cover a specific area, they don't have eyes to assist them cause they don't need to see /evaluate the spray coverage. If u do have areas that need to be repaired,let them cure for weeks, block sand the blemish, sandout the area around the repair 3feet with 2000 wet paper, and prep, spray the repair area only with the above described method but increase the sixe of the pattern by several inches each coat, mix in 25% thinner into the paint and fog the area where the new paint meets the existing paint. I have done this over awlgrip that was coated with Clear and followed the same method with the clear, let cure and finesse it