Installing new guages & Electrical

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gplume
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Installing new guages & Electrical

Post by gplume »

I am in the middle of a rewire/wireing upgrade, which means rip it out until I figure out what I have and then replace anything that is shakey. 35 years of add ons, and I am dealing with a real rats nest. Got up to the instrument cluster.... and now I have it in may basement. Rather than clean up, I think I will relace it completely. The existing set up has a mish mash of guages in what looks like an old stewart warner panel. Any idea where I might find a new panel like the original? Did not see anything on the SW web site. Any suggestions on new guages? Got OEM Cummins 504's, 1972 vintage. I don't mind replacing all of my senders. Having trouble finding a guage distributor that has a good enough web site to real figure out what I want.(good pix and description) Any hints or suggestions on an instrument panel or guages would be appreciated. Let me know what you have and if you like em. : :-D

BTW, I read a post from a while back on what to use for panels. I am very happy with the 2 panels I got from Blue Seas.
Giff
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Bruce
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Post by Bruce »

Unless someones changed it, the metal panel of the 31 can be cleaned up and rechromed or exchanged for an already done panel.

If someone's changed it then a few pics would help to identify it.

I've been using Isspro gauges for about 6 years now with good results. They have many different designs depending on whether you want old style or modern.

http://www.isspro.com/

When you replace the gauges, replace the senders also. While more money, the isolated senders will give more accurate and steady readings.

A standard sender has one wire and depends on the ground thru the NPT thread. When you use sealer, that connection can be less than 100%.

An isolated ground sender has two wires. One goes to the gauge, the other to ground so the sealer won't affect it.
JGomber
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Post by JGomber »

In redoing my guages (504s, too) I used VDO oil pressure and coolant temp and Stewart Warner gear pressure guages. They are a direct replacement for the originals...no cutting or drilling. They even look like the originals with chrome bezels. Follow Bruces' suggestion re the senders.
Jerry, Triton II
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Mikey
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Post by Mikey »

Giff,
I am doing a total redo including all electrical. I used VDO Ocean gauges and new senders as Bruce prescribes. I have the original metal panel which I am not using. My boat is an express so it has a fibreglass panel in which the metal one sat. I eliminated the metal panel, glassed up the holes in the fibreglass panel and created a new design and installed the gauges and some switches in it. If you like I can send pix. Looks pretty cool.
Now, have you found a discount supplier for your wiring and terminals? Looks like from the price of copper we picked the absolute worst time to rewire. Such is life.
Mikey
3/18/1963 - -31-327 factory hardtop express, the only one left.
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits.
-Albert Einstein
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Capt. Mike Holmes
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Gauges

Post by Capt. Mike Holmes »

I am using the original instrument panel, replaced the gauges with SW Heavy duty units, using Isspro tachs.

Mikey, you can sell your old wire for enough to buy new stuff.
"There is nothing quite so satisfying, as simply messing around in boats."
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Mikey
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Post by Mikey »

Mike, I tore it out four years ago. The yard scavenger sold it then, when copper was cheap, relatively.
Mikey
3/18/1963 - -31-327 factory hardtop express, the only one left.
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits.
-Albert Einstein
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Capt. Mike Holmes
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Wire

Post by Capt. Mike Holmes »

Kinda figured that. See, that's why I hardly ever throw anything away.
"There is nothing quite so satisfying, as simply messing around in boats."
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Rawleigh
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Post by Rawleigh »

Mikey: Do you still have the original metal one? I want to get mine rechromed, but it would be easier to have yours rechromed and then swap my guages directly from one to the other. Less chance of screwing it up that way!! Have fun in the islands- you won't be missing anything here!
Rawleigh
1966 FBC 31
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Mikey
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Post by Mikey »

Rawleigh,
Remind me when we return and I'll look, it should be in a box that has yet to be unpacked from River City.
Mikey
3/18/1963 - -31-327 factory hardtop express, the only one left.
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits.
-Albert Einstein
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gplume
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Post by gplume »

All thanks for your replies. Looks like the clean up of the original metal panel is in order. It just that the "home depot - rustoleunm special paint job" is so damn ugly.

Bruce - So noted on the sendors.

Mickey- I have been getting my wire at west marine and jack rabbit energy; jrenergy.com, they have had the best prices I have found, also bought a set of 150 amp balmar alternators from them as well. I use west out of convenience (many local stores.) when I lack forsight. Would like a pix of your set up if possible.

Capt Mike and J Gomber thanks also.
Giff
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Mikey
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Post by Mikey »

Giff
West Marine? I went there yesterday and found some things in wiring I need that were 30% off and they were still higher than some internet sites. I'll take a look at the rabbit in a minute.
I haven't the time this morning to try to figure out all that vodoo that Pat do to make picture come up so I will check your profile and email the pic to you.
Mikey
3/18/1963 - -31-327 factory hardtop express, the only one left.
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits.
-Albert Einstein
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John Jackson
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Location: Point Pleasant Beach, NJ

Post by John Jackson »

I rechromed my original panel and took apart my Cummins VDO gauges with the square covers and replaced them with chrome round ones that I bought from VDO. The guys at Carvers got all of the new gauges to fit in the old panel and I could not be happier with the way it came out. It is very compact and really stands out against the new white Awlgrip. They were able to put the red warning lights which were seperate into the the guage itself (thanks JP for the tip!) and we got rid of the keys and went back to the starter buttons and pull switch under the dash for on/off.
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