Sorry to be a PIA, but in my quick internet research, I've found that I can get 5" 90 degree exhaust elbows in f'glass from Centek, or cast iron, or ss. I had cast iron on my 454s, and they last forever and were pretty rugged (and crush proof). Any reason I should stick with f'glass, or is it OK to get cast iron. Stainless would have to be custom made I think.
Thanks
F'glass v. cast iron v. stainless exhaust elbow
Moderators: CaptPatrick, mike ohlstein, Bruce
F'glass v. cast iron v. stainless exhaust elbow
1968 B20 Moppie - Hull # 201-937
1969 B31 FBC - Hull # 315-881 (sold)
1977 B31 FBC - Hull # BERG1652M77J (sold)
1969 B31 FBC - Hull # 315-881 (sold)
1977 B31 FBC - Hull # BERG1652M77J (sold)
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Re: F'glass v. cast iron v. stainless exhaust elbow
I'd stick with fiberglass and maybe add the crush rings. Cast iron weighs a ton and rusts... If you make sure that you'll have the hose onto the tube by at least 4" there's really no need for crush rings. It's where you're clamping at the very end of the tube that crushing occurs.
Br,
Patrick
Molon labe
Patrick
Molon labe
Re: F'glass v. cast iron v. stainless exhaust elbow
Thanks.
1968 B20 Moppie - Hull # 201-937
1969 B31 FBC - Hull # 315-881 (sold)
1977 B31 FBC - Hull # BERG1652M77J (sold)
1969 B31 FBC - Hull # 315-881 (sold)
1977 B31 FBC - Hull # BERG1652M77J (sold)
Re: F'glass v. cast iron v. stainless exhaust elbow
John,
Make sure you get the sweep 90's and not the sharp 90's. Less chance of back pressure and sharp 90's in hydro dynamics is like adding 15' of straight hose in resistance value.
Make sure you get the sweep 90's and not the sharp 90's. Less chance of back pressure and sharp 90's in hydro dynamics is like adding 15' of straight hose in resistance value.
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