I have a Glass Tech cockpit deck. The hatch gutters do not have drains. What is the best way to drain them? Can they drain overboard? Other options into a sump with a pump or just into the bilge. Other questions are what size hoses and what kind of fittings.
Thank you,
Jim
Hatch gutter drains
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- CaptPatrick
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Re: Hatch gutter drains
Jim,
Before I go into details and diagrams, how good are you with fiberglassing with polyester resin?
Before I go into details and diagrams, how good are you with fiberglassing with polyester resin?
Br,
Patrick
Molon labe
Patrick
Molon labe
Re: Hatch gutter drains
Capt Patrick: Not to bad. Used to build surf boards.
Jim
Jim
- CaptPatrick
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Re: Hatch gutter drains
Good! This won't be the easiest way, but you asked for the best way.
PVC is reactive with both acetone and polyester resin so it a good material to incorporate into a fiberglass structure. And PVC fittings are easy to come by...
You'll want 2 drain holes per hatch and both will be at the aft end of the gutter race and in the corners. The Glasstech style deck has 5 larger size hatchs and the small hatch over the fuel fill. You only need 1 drain for that small hatch. Get 11 schedule 80 1/2" Spigot (glues into a socket or fitting) by 1/2" barb fittings.
Now take your deck out of the boat. (I know, groannnn...) Turn it upside down and sand a flat spot where each pvc barb will be glassed on. Plug any "drain holes" that Glasstech drilled in the race. If you have holes in the forward side of race, you'll glass over them.
Sand the slip joint section of the barbed fitting. Wipe it and the sanded flat on the race down with acetone. Put a dab of super glue on the fitting and center it on the flat corner of the race. Allow it to set up for about 5 minutes.
Using pulled tufts of fiberglass mat, glass the fitting to the race. Apply at least 3 layers of 1 1/2 oz mat or 6 layers of 3/4 oz mat.
Once your deck is back in place, use a rotary burr to increase the size of the holes over the pvc fittings.
Use an appropriate size clear pvc tubing routed and secured to where you want the water to drain to. I usually just drain it to the bilge, but routing the hose away from what ever I don't water dripping onto and making the tubing long enough to be just above the hull.
Now, is there an easier way? I'm sure there probably is, but this is way I do it, it's a right way, and it's my story and I'm stickin' to it... I'll let somebody else suggest easier ways.
PVC is reactive with both acetone and polyester resin so it a good material to incorporate into a fiberglass structure. And PVC fittings are easy to come by...
You'll want 2 drain holes per hatch and both will be at the aft end of the gutter race and in the corners. The Glasstech style deck has 5 larger size hatchs and the small hatch over the fuel fill. You only need 1 drain for that small hatch. Get 11 schedule 80 1/2" Spigot (glues into a socket or fitting) by 1/2" barb fittings.
Now take your deck out of the boat. (I know, groannnn...) Turn it upside down and sand a flat spot where each pvc barb will be glassed on. Plug any "drain holes" that Glasstech drilled in the race. If you have holes in the forward side of race, you'll glass over them.
Sand the slip joint section of the barbed fitting. Wipe it and the sanded flat on the race down with acetone. Put a dab of super glue on the fitting and center it on the flat corner of the race. Allow it to set up for about 5 minutes.
Using pulled tufts of fiberglass mat, glass the fitting to the race. Apply at least 3 layers of 1 1/2 oz mat or 6 layers of 3/4 oz mat.
Once your deck is back in place, use a rotary burr to increase the size of the holes over the pvc fittings.
Use an appropriate size clear pvc tubing routed and secured to where you want the water to drain to. I usually just drain it to the bilge, but routing the hose away from what ever I don't water dripping onto and making the tubing long enough to be just above the hull.
Now, is there an easier way? I'm sure there probably is, but this is way I do it, it's a right way, and it's my story and I'm stickin' to it... I'll let somebody else suggest easier ways.
Br,
Patrick
Molon labe
Patrick
Molon labe
Re: Hatch gutter drains
Capt. Pat. Thank you, should of done this when I had the deck out for the new fuel tank.
Jim M.
Jim M.
Re: Hatch gutter drains
Jim when your ready shoot me a PM, you can do all your work at my yard. I have all the material you'll need, lots of space and tools do do the job.
4 1/2 years to build, Slashed Sept 16, 2016. 2860 hours and counting.
- conchy joe
- Posts: 153
- Joined: Jan 15th, '11, 03:06
Re: Hatch gutter drains
While I am redoing the rear bulkhead/windows and raising the engine hatches on my 28 I think that I will incorporate this project also. Thanks Capt Pat.
Troy & Daria
28 Bertram FBC, 3.9 Cummin BT's
Conchy Joe "ITS THE BOAT'S NAME, NOT MINE" -
Hypoluxo Point, FL
28 Bertram FBC, 3.9 Cummin BT's
Conchy Joe "ITS THE BOAT'S NAME, NOT MINE" -
Hypoluxo Point, FL
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