My old Anna E. - painted

[John F.]

the guy I sold my Anna E. just had her painted. She's stripped down, but looks good to me. I think his brother painted her or did a lot of the work, and I think he works at American Custom Yachts. Its nice to see her being taken care of.

[Mikey]

John,
Don't you wish . . .

[matt ciarpella]

the blacked out windows and frames look good.

[John F.]

John,
Don't you wish . . .

I do Mikey, every day. But, I've got Crows Nest to work on. She'll get there.

[PeterPalmieri]

That's like seeing the fat girl in HS that had a crush on you grow up to be a model. Not sure I love the blacked out frames but certainly looks way better than mine.

[mike ohlstein]

I like the blacked out windows.....

[Tony Meola]

The black out gives it that Stealth Look.

He did a nice job on her.

[PeterPalmieri]

Mike, what did you do to the frames to hold the paint?

[TailhookTom]

Mike, what did you do to the frames to hold the paint?

Peter:

He was mean to them.


Tom

[John F.]

Mike, what did you do to the frames to hold the paint?

Pete-

This is what Capt. Pat told me when I redid mine on the Anna E.

John,

Assuming that you'd be painting the frames after the repairs, you need to first thoroughly clean up all exposed aluminum, sand well with 320 grit, grind out all corrosion spots, & acid treat with Alumiprep. Dry the aluminum well, do a good clean up with denatured alcohol & allow the alcohol to evaporate off.

Once this has been accomplished, patch the pits & grind outs with J-B Weld. J-B weld is a 2 part, (1:1), epoxy with metal fillers. Allow the J-B Weld to fill & stand above the finished surface so that it can be sanded back flush after curing. Allow the epoxy to cure for at least a week before sanding back to allow for shrinkage.

Once the epoxy has cured and been sanded flush with 320 grit, again acid treat the frames with Alumiprep, rinse & treat the frames with Alodine. Follow the directions for both materials & allow the frames to dry for about 24 hours.

Wash the frames down again with denatured alcohol, allow the alcohol to evaporate thoroughly, and prime the frames with anti-corrosive, (yellow), 545 Awlgrip epoxy primer. apply 2 coats & sand with 320 grit after it cures for 24 hours. You can now paint with what ever top coat paint you chose.

Your selection of top coat should be made with the consideration that you WILL be touching up & chasing future blisters, usually around the edges, so select a paint that is going to be easy to blend out. Awlgrip wouldn't be my choice... Probably Imron or one of the other maintainable top coats available.

Br,

Patrick

[Mikey]

Meanie,
She shore is purdy. I did the dark green windows and wish I had gone one shade darker. How's the red holding up? How old is it. The orange (Awl Craft) faded and had to be repainted after nine years. What a bitch. Was thinking about changing colors but my wife reminded me that if it happened again I'd be about eighty and if I could still see it very well I probably wouldn't give a giant rat's patoot.

[mike ohlstein]

I wasn't that careful with the aluminum and at this point, it shows. All of that work was done during the first few months of 2004. I think that the red still looks pretty good, but not like it did ten years ago. The painter was pretty good with paint, but lousy with glass. The gunnel air vent patches have popped open and need to be redone.

When you consider some of the rough treatment that the boat has had, It's still in decent shape. Unfortunately, I ran out of gas before redoing the interior. I did the re-power in 2002, the exterior in 2004, and was about to do the interior when I got sick in 2006 and lost a year of boating. Since then, I just run her hard and put her away wet......