Teak and Uncle Vic

[Russ Pagels]

Uncle Vic, back when, had posted a process for cleaning teak . It consisted of using a 3M scotch-brite abrasive pad,( white only) and soap and ammonia. now the question, the only scotch-brite white pads I have found were the ones for cleaning glass stove tops. are these the ones or are there others and if so where does one get them? teak the gift that keeps on giving. thanks Russ

[CaptPatrick]

Russ,

I gave UV that teak cleaning formula... The white pads used for stove tops are the same as what you want for the teak.

The cleaning formula and use is as follows:

3 gallons of water, 2 quarts of sudsy household ammonia, 1/4 cup of Whisk or other concentrated liquid laundry soap. Add the ammonia and soap to the water and stir it in to minimize foaming.

Do you teak cleaning either in shade, under heavy overcast clouds, or very early in the morning. Avoid cleaning teak in direct sunlight. Wet the teak first with plain water, followed with the cleaning solution and pad. Keep the wet with the solution, working the pad across the grain, not with it, for at least 10 minutes before rinsing. Rinse very well with plain water until no more soap suds are developed. Squeegee or chamois off excess water and allow the teak to dry.

This process will darken the teak appreciably, but it will lighten up naturally over about a week or two depending on amount of sunlight it receives. You can lighten it up faster by using 3 gallons of water and 1 pint of liquid laundry bleach, worked in the same manner as the cleaner. Follow with a good rinse to remove all traces of bleach and dry as above.

Do not use the 2 part teak cleaners that are available at most marine supply houses and ships stores. The Part 1 is an acid that literally dissolves a layer of wood. Part 2 is a strong base solution that neutralizes the acid; both eat up your deck and will attack the gelcoat or paint in surrounding areas.

For additional info see: http://bertram31.com/proj/deck/after.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[PeterPalmieri]

Russ,

I have adopted this technique for my teak deck. I don't use as much water as Capt Pat suggests and I've never tried bleach. The key is to get a good cloudy day or run down to the boat just before dark.

West Marine, Lowes, Home Depot

3M Doodlebug Cleaning Pad 8440 White 4.625" x 10"

They also sell a handle that attaches to a broom stick or one with a handle

[Russ Pagels]

thanks Peter, Pat. I've been using tip top teak oil on the covering boards, it's very good but it seems to need it every week! another product is Semco teak sealer, I've used it on my rowing boat and one coat lasts the whole year, the down side is that it looks a little orange. After I get a cloudy day and clean them, I don't know which product I will employ , any thoughts? thanks Russ

[CaptPatrick]

Russ,

Tip Top Teak oil is hands down the best. The fact that it oxidizes and needs to be re-applied regularly is to your advantage in that there's no long term build up and doesn't need to be sanded away to remove. The application is so simple and speedy that the only downside might be cost of product. It brings out the true character of the teak and enhances rather than detracts.

Semco teak sealer on the other hand is more like a varnish and, in my opinion, has the color of baby crap. I guess it's OK for some minor projects that don't rank high enough to be on the TLC list; docks and pilings for example. Plus, Semco and similar products peel like varnish with some age. I rate Semco as a lazy man's product...

I ran a 48' sportfish with a teak cockpit for a couple of years and, based on an 8 hr day, maintenance of the teak, including cleaning, oiling, and an annual light surfacing, took up 16 days out of the year. Oiling never took longer than a couple of hours per week, maybe 3 hours per month on dedicated cleaning, and a couple of days per year to sand and resurface to keep the hard grain flushed down. Compliments from around the marina abounded. Semco treated boats rarely got more than a snear or some polite silence.

Please don't use Semco on your newly re-minted B31...

[Buju]

Semco = reduced Cetol

Oil > Semco/Cetol, in terms of application, maintenance & appearance.

[Russ Pagels]

Pat when your right your right. tip top it is. thanks all. Russ

[Dug]

Russ,

I am right there with Pat. Teak and I have a long history. Tip Top is my primary go to product. Its followed second by Interlux now which I discovered when Tip Top closed up for a bit.

I find that with a wash of normal soap and water every time I use the boat I may want to re-coat once a month. But I also have a full cockpit cover. Uncovered, yep, probably once a week. I am getting 2 years out of a strip and re-clean/re-oil now, particularly since I am not taking Alchemy fishing the same way I used to.

But the re-oil routine is not a chafe at all, and I love the smell.

Any questions, don't hesitate. I'll give you my 2 cents if you want.

Dug

[PeterPalmieri]

Dug,

Your deck looks great, which tip top product are you using on the deck? I assumed oil was not great under foot.

I clean with amonia and wisk and my deck is grey.

Happy Birthday!

Pete

[Russ Pagels]

Well, I followed Capt. Pats directions to the letter and after 3 hours of scrubbing it looks great. It looks like at one time the covering boards were varnished, so a few spots will have to be sanded. all in all it was worth the effort. Pat you will be happy to know I used tip top teak oil...thanks Russ