Wanted to share a picture and video

[Keith Poe]

.




Video from You Tube, set the video to 1080 HD and full screen

http://youtu.be/tTlw6Tfak4w" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;








The same video FB

https://www.facebook.com/video/video.ph ... _processed" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;








.

[Tony Meola]

Keith

Looking like you are moving along. Not sure how the diamond plate is going to work for you, but it does no look like you have a lot of room to get into the bilge area if you have to reach through a hatch.

[Whaler1777]

What exactly are we looking at here keith? Are you putting straight up diamond plate over that?

[Keith Poe]

hey guys es and straight up diamond plate over the #2 grade 2" x 12" douglas fir might cut the two pieces in to 6 pieces basically 3' x 5' each possible with the two center pieces hinged over the beams to access the rudders or shafts and exhaust.

I rarely keep fish so the fish boxes are not much of an interest at this point.

besides the two 3x5 access hatches I will most likely add an access hatch over the rudder bar something off the shelf and might order the nice SS framed hatches with aluminum diamond plate later on.

the 2x12 will be screwed in with SS screws so i can remove them if i need to.

The motor beds are SS bolted in so i can remove them if i need to.

[mike ohlstein]

Looks like the deck is going to have a bit of flex toward the center, no?

[Keith Poe]

Looks like the deck is going to have a bit of flex toward the center, no?

Hey Mike I'm going to use 4, 4x4 shims to the fuel tank on each 2x12 to stop any flexing.

[mike ohlstein]

I imagine that the tank is mighty strong, but I'm not sure that I would make it load bearing across the top. Every other boat in town has stringers running fore to aft and sitting on the hull.

How much space do you have between the top of the tank and the bottom of the deck? If you're set on having floor joists that run port to starboard, perhaps there's room for something stiffer than those boards. Perhaps some H beams or channel of fiberglass or aluminum.

For example, an aluminum H beam that is 3" tall (web), 2.5" wide (flange), and made of .25" thick 6061 alloy should carry about 300 lbs over a 10 foot span and deflect less than .25".

Just a thought.

[Buju]

Keith,
the thing that concerns me, is that you:
1) Used Dougie Fir for your engine beds
2) Didn't glass over them, or cap 'em?..or your rudder shelves/supports. Unless I missed that?
Looked like you painted em with resin only... did ya bed them in bondo and screw em to the stringers?

And yeah man, use something with less flex than the dougie fir for your deck supports... Or redesign it so the deck is supported longitudinal as opposed to the transverse supports... $.02

[Keith Poe]

I imagine that the tank is mighty strong, but I'm not sure that I would make it load bearing across the top. Every other boat in town has stringers running fore to aft and sitting on the hull.

How much space do you have between the top of the tank and the bottom of the deck? If you're set on having floor joists that run port to starboard, perhaps there's room for something stiffer than those boards. Perhaps some H beams or channel of fiberglass or aluminum.

For example, an aluminum H beam that is 3" tall (web), 2.5" wide (flange), and made of .25" thick 6061 alloy should carry about 300 lbs over a 10 foot span and deflect less than .25".

Just a thought.

I hear you Mike and thank you for the insight.

The boards are cheap few bucks each and can be changed at any time.

I'll see how she works out and feels, if it's funky I'll make the change.

I like all the open area for the mechanical access and the low maintenance with the diamond plate.

The flat 2x12 offer a lot of support for the 3/16" diamond plate keeping it light weight and low maintenance with great access.

I treat my boats more like work trucks.

[Keith Poe]

Keith,
the thing that concerns me, is that you:
1) Used Dougie Fir for your engine beds
2) Didn't glass over them, or cap 'em?..or your rudder shelves/supports. Unless I missed that?
Looked like you painted em with resin only... did ya bed them in Bond and screw em to the stringers?

And yeah man, use something with less flex than the dougie fir for your deck supports... Or redesign it so the deck is supported longitudinal as opposed to the transverse supports... $.02

Baju thank you for your help much appreciated.


I think the Douglas fir will be fine i build with it all the time it holds up great to building codes and attached to steel beams etc.

if it does start to sink in i can always easily add a longer plate.

The motor beds box is through bolted with SS 1/2" carriage bolts i can unbolt and gain access or glass or replace at any time and they are inexpensive.

I thought about glassing over them but wanted to be able to remove them with a few bolts.


the rudder shelves are through bolted with 3/8" SS hex head bolts and half of the supports are embedded and biaxeled in.
One side and the top that are removable for access are not glassed and cost about a buck i can easily make new ones in minutes if needed.

I'll see how well everything performs and if she requires more strength or durability I'll be all over it.


Going to keep the deck supports the way they are for now and see how it works out i really like being able to remove the decking and framing with a few screws.
I believe with the supports on the tank it will be strong and if it's not i will add the stringer supports up to the 2x12 from the stringers on the sides of the tank but do not believe it will be necessary.

The flat 2x12 should offer a lot of support to the diamond plate keeping the thickness 3/16 light weight and coast down.
As it is the space between the 2x12 is only 12".


One advantage i have after building for over 35 years is a good understanding of building material structural integrity.

All the best.

[Buju]

[
I think the Douglas fir will be fine i build with it all the time it holds up great to building codes and attached to steel beams etc.

if it does start to sink in i can always easily add a longer plate.

.....replace at any time and they are inexpensive.

..... wanted to be able to remove them with a few bolts.

..... cost about a buck i can easily make new ones in minutes if needed.

I'll see how well everything performs and if she requires more strength or durability I'll be all over it.

.....i really like being able to remove the decking and framing with a few screws.

I believe with the supports on the tank it will be strong and if it's not i will add the stringer supports up to the 2x12 from the stringers on the sides of the tank but do not believe it will be necessary.

The flat 2x12 should offer a lot of support to the diamond plate keeping the thickness 3/16 light weight and coast down.
As it is the space between the 2x12 is only 12".

Interesting... So your desired characteristics in your major below deck structural systems are that they are inexpensive and easily replaceable? I have never seen anyone intentionally seek out these traits for their materials used in structural components in a boat rebuild.
I tend to go the opposite route and spend 3 times as long on the initial install to properly encapsulate any and all bare wood with several layers of laminate complete with radius tops, and thickened resin fillets on the bed before laying the glass. Once I do the work, I want to be done with it... not a never ending project.
Douglas Fir, while being naturally rot resistant, sure does like to rot. I can't begin to tell you how much rotted dougie fir I've
replaced & epoxy patched in the last year alone, in both architechtual and marine applications. Tongue and groove ceilings, doors, handrails, transoms, soffits, bulkheads, soles, etc, etc. It can only take so much fresh water exposure and it's black mush... But if you're planning on treating your structural components as disposable and making it so you can easily remove and replace, well, ok then.

The cockpit deck supports... If you like the aspect that they're removable with a few screws, and plan on doing so to access the various components below, keep in mind that by the second or third time you remove and rescrew the fasteners into the fir, the fir is not going to hold the screws very well any more. You can shoot a little resin in the holes to hold better, but thats pretty limited and will give up the ghost as well, before too long.
Your 2 x 12's could give a lot better support if you ripped them into 2 x 6's, and then reconfigured them so they were oriented vertically - i.e.: 6"tall by 2" wide. That 12" width aint doing anything for you.
Utilizing the fuel tank for a support... come on man. What if it ruptures your tank in heavy seas when a swell comes over your transom because of your set-up- then you've got a swamped vessel, leaking fuel, and if crash valves are your answer- what if you get enough seawater in the fuel to get past the racors and it ingests into the cummins?

For how you propose to use the boat, in the extreme sea conditions, with the inherently risky aspect of the sea anchor off the transom to tempt the sea into your cockpit, etc... I would think you'd want her to be overbuilt to the maximum, with a completely watertight cockpit sole.
I may be off in my thought process, you may not be concerned with either. But as it is now, she exhibits neither aspect...

[Keith Poe]

Morning I can easily add deck supports from the stringers at any time.
I'm happy with the lumber grade.

I believe I will get a good service life from my economical low maintenance material choices.

All the best

[Buju]

Right on, to each their own,
keep on keepin on brudda...

[Keith Poe]

Thank you Buju

Hope you had a great day

I took my time today and did a few things and took care of my 13 year old mommas in Vegas with the girls seeing Elton john Motown group etc.

I learned about shaft alignment today and started replacing the exhaust.
Bolted in the steering and checked out the fuel sending unit.
Just went through all the different odds and ends to get everything dialed in.

Thanks again for all your support i appreciate everyone input helps me allot.

Wish i had more time and a big indoor controlled environment shop i could work in any time day or night in a perfect world but I'm satisfied and love the 31-B she has great lines i really like seeing her in the driveway makes me very happy but not as happy as getting her wet.

All the best & happy happy happy Sunday my friends.

[Pete Fallon]

Keith,
To each his own on the deck arrangement, myself I only like to replace things every 20 or 30 years.
My deck supports are 1" white oak painted with 5 coats of thinned epoxey then thru bolted to the stringers with stainless steel fasteners, they run fore and aft. I have a 3/8" aluminum H frame for my fighting chair that is thru bolted to the white oak stringers, that extend back 4' from the aft deck hatch over the fuel tank top. The area where the engine boxes attach are backed up with aluminum backing plates (6"x8''') there is alot of stress at that connection point. My decks are 3 sections 3'6" wide by 8' long of 3/4" high density 80 pound foam core board with 2 layers 1708 on top and 3 layers of 1808 on the bottom, with sand finish non skid surface.
I have caught giant tuna and sharks from 300 to 1000 pounds and never had a problem, the current decks have been in for over 20 years and no signs of water intrusion on the moisture meter around any hardware holes.
I see where yor coming from with the fir strips across the beam but unless you support over the fuel tank your going to have problems. Just my opinion but I call it as I see it, also the insurance companies look at my surveys and make there conclusions for insurance on what I write in my reports, I question you methods, I don't want to sound like I know everything but over 40 years of boat building experience come into play on this item.
Pete Fallon

[Keith Poe]

I hear your Pete

The design I came up with for the projects I have coming up will be perfect.

When I buy another home I will set up a shop and do a full remodel on the old girl but she is more than fine for now for what I am going to be doing with her at this point.

I agree I realised today I will have to add the stringer deck supports to the tank supports for the survey





I did the decks on my skipjack 20 years ago and they are still perfect





Thanks again.

Hard to see posting with this phone no glasses