Calling all inspectors

[Keith Poe]

This link is a video on you tube


http://youtu.be/mNhwpaqOdeo" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


After i milled the 4 x 12 beams and 1 x 6 in to fit all the multiple angles i set the beams in thin set and bondo then used about 1.5 gallons of polyester resin on each beam and 2-3 layers of Biaxel glass.

The beams will be the primary supports for the stern davits one on each corner and my primary deck supports for my 3/16 diamond plate deck.


I'm going to finish glassing in the ends of the beams them the rest of the deck supports will be bare wood no glass screwed in.


Going to run a 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 ledger down the sides of the 4 x 12 beams 1.5 inches down from the top of the beams and run 2 x 8, 10, or 12 possibly 2 x 14 flat across the fuel tank to the other beam to mount the deck to.

I'm leaving the exhaust where it is or was and no deck storage just access.


I'm going to install the davits through the railing mounted in the top of the beams at the stern and run a support from the davit under the railing towards the motor on a angle to the other end of the beam and fasten it to the beam.


Hopefully the beams will be secure supporting the davits and deck and the railing will keep the davit stable and the angle support will keep most of the the pressure off the transom.

Most fish will be a few hundred pounds possibly 1000# max but the water weight and swell surge creates a lot of pressure.

Hopefully my design will do the job.

The davits were and are my primary focus on this build.


I'm aware of the latex conflict with the thin set and polyester resin, i did a test on the existing glass and it bonded good enough for a filler.

When i lift fish the scuppers will be swamped any suggestions on how to open and close them securely.




10 coats of polyester

[IRGuy]

Keith...

I never say anything on a boat that goes to sea is overbuilt.. your work certainly is strong though!

I am curious what you are going to suspend from the davits.. I assume it is some kind of a moveable platform to use when you are tagging sharks? If so.. do you have any plans drawn up for it? I am wondering how much freeboard is lost at the transom when you hang 1,000 lbs outboard of it!

Keep the pics and videos coming.. Having just completed the structural part of my B33 rebuild I appreciate the work you are doing!

Frank B

[Bob H.]

Keith, Looks good n strong, only suggestion I will add is to use fillets where the beam meets the hull and topside, a radiused inside corner will spread the load and straight or T seams add more stress in a localized area. I mixed up a combination of microfibers and high density fillers with epoxy used a big squeege cut out of plastic to the shape I needed, let the fillet start to kick then clothed up the sides, covered with peel n ply, let the whole thing kick and peel the ply the next day, pulling off the waxy top coat of the epoxy and leaving a pefect finish to prime n paint. BH

[CaptPatrick]

waxy top coat of the epoxy

Called amine blush and it'll act just like a mold release unless removed. The peelply does remove some of it but not always all.

21:15 -- Forgot to mention... Amine is water soluble and amine blush can be removed by scrubbing with soapy water followed by a good rinse.

[Keith Poe]

Keith...

I never say anything on a boat that goes to sea is overbuilt.. your work certainly is strong though!

I am curious what you are going to suspend from the davits.. I assume it is some kind of a moveable platform to use when you are tagging sharks? If so.. do you have any plans drawn up for it? I am wondering how much freeboard is lost at the transom when you hang 1,000 lbs outboard of it!

Keep the pics and videos coming.. Having just completed the structural part of my B33 rebuild I appreciate the work you are doing!

Frank B

Hello Frank yes strong because last time i had a sling system on my 24' skiff I was weighing a large mako off the west end of Catalina at night alone in the dark in heavy seas and swamped the boat dropping the stern all the way in and luckily saved the boat.

I ripped the fly bridge loose and broke the rear bulk head and dropped the small walk around down around the fly bridge on a 45 degree angle and tor some of the glass around the base and at one point for being to rough ripped the strangers loos from the bow half way back to the stern.

I've had her in 24' swells and 34 kt sustained winds while on a wide open mako bite all night with my friend a sea tow captain in the galley holding on all night puking.

I tend to be a little rough but have settled down a little.

Hopefully the stern load is not dangerous well see and i will have my go pro on for sure.

[Keith Poe]

Keith, Looks good n strong, only suggestion I will add is to use fillets where the beam meets the hull and topside, a radiused inside corner will spread the load and straight or T seams add more stress in a localized area. I mixed up a combination of microfibers and high density fillers with epoxy used a big squeege cut out of plastic to the shape I needed, let the fillet start to kick then clothed up the sides, covered with peel n ply, let the whole thing kick and peel the ply the next day, pulling off the waxy top coat of the epoxy and leaving a pefect finish to prime n paint. BH

Thank you Bob

I get what your saying and appreciate the help very much you make a good point.

Question what are fillets and tell me more about the peel and ply please.

[Keith Poe]

Called amine blush and it'll act just like a mold release unless removed. The peelply does remove some of it but not always all.

21:15 -- Forgot to mention... Amine is water soluble and amine blush can be removed by scrubbing with soapy water followed by a good rinse.

OK you guys need to speak English to the rookie please no comprende amine blush peel ply and who is Amine is she pretty ?

[CaptPatrick]

Amine is one of the chemicals in all epoxies and as the epoxy cures any excess amine that didn't link with the hardener will migrate to the surface. This is noticed as a slightly greasy film and must be removed before subsequent bonding can be preformed. And when present, no she's an ugly bitch...

Peel ply is a specially treated woven release nylon fabric. It is usually used in vacuum forming and infusion molding between the part and the breather fabric, allowing the part to be separated easily. It can also be used in hand layups to achieve a finely textured surface on the part that is suitable for a better bond with materials to be added later, (fairing compounds, primers, etc).

[Buju]

Amines only occur in polyamine epoxies. If your using polyester or vinylester its a non issue.

FIllets are just what Bob described. In your 90 degree angles where the box meets the interior hullside and again where the box meets the interior hull bottom- you want to make... in essence a really large, concave caulk bead down that joint. But the "caulk" will be your resin, thickened up with silica/strand glass/etc. Creates a larger bond area & it allows for the biax to not have to conform to any 90 degree angles- which it does not like to do.

The peel & ply is (I think) a plastic film which you press over your still wet fiberglass substrate. The plastic being there causes the glass & resin to take a "out of the mold" look because it kicks against the pressed on smooth surface of the plastic. Remove it once your resin kicks and presto- no, or very little filling, sanding, fairing, etc needed.

What species did you mill the beams out of?

[Buju]

Dang Patrick, I always seem to do that...

[Keith Poe]

Amine is one of the chemicals in all epoxies and as the epoxy cures any excess amine that didn't link with the hardener will migrate to the surface. This is noticed as a slightly greasy film and must be removed before subsequent bonding can be preformed. And when present, no she's an ugly bitch...

Peel ply is a specially treated woven release nylon fabric. It is usually used in vacuum forming and infusion molding between the part and the breather fabric, allowing the part to be separated easily. It can also be used in hand layups to achieve a finely textured surface on the part that is suitable for a better bond with materials to be added later, (fairing compounds, primers, etc).

OK then that's to bad she's ugly but the response was sexy!

[Keith Poe]

Amines only occur in polyamine epoxies. If your using polyester or vinylester its a non issue.

FIllets are just what Bob described. In your 90 degree angles where the box meets the interior hullside and again where the box meets the interior hull bottom- you want to make... in essence a really large, concave caulk bead down that joint. But the "caulk" will be your resin, thickened up with silica/strand glass/etc. Creates a larger bond area & it allows for the biax to not have to conform to any 90 degree angles- which it does not like to do.

The peel & ply is (I think) a plastic film which you press over your still wet fiberglass substrate. The plastic being there causes the glass & resin to take a "out of the mold" look because it kicks against the pressed on smooth surface of the plastic. Remove it once your resin kicks and presto- no, or very little filling, sanding, fairing, etc needed.

What species did you mill the beams out of?

Buju thank you for the help greatly appreciated.

The beams are # 1 or 2 Douglas fir and the 1x6 on top is #2 pine glued and screwed togeather.

I have never made peanut butter but have everything from Revchem and yes Polyester resin.

When the peanut putter starts to kick I'll mix another batch of polyester resin and lay in another layer of Biax over the peanut butter concaved corners radius Fillets ?

Then make the 1/4 round corners useing a masons jointing pointing tool http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Ended-Brick ... 0462260171" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I used heavy latex gloves to push finish the corners of the biax and seemed to work good on inside and outside corners.

The build up on the top of the beams from three layers of biax seems pretty beefy.