Bonding Strap

[Joe E]

I am getting ready to install the bonding strap in the hull tomorrow and wanted to know if I connect the strap together in the bow of the boat? Also how far up the bow do I really need to run the strap? I have no thur hulls or equipment past mid ship. Thanks Joe

[Keith Poe]

Hello Joe

Not to jack your thread but this is kind of related and wanted to hear some opinions on this as well hope you do not mind.

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[Charlie J]

joe
if the boat is open then run it up to the bow for future use if needed, but if you have no thru hulls up there i dont see the need for the run

[Bob H.]

Joe, I ran My bonding strap to the end of the stringers up forward, make plenty of pinched tabs where you will need any bonding, pinch with vise grips and drill to same size as bolt you intend to use, I found silicon bronze bolts from hamilton marine with locking scuff washers, then mist with cx. I double check all my bonding with volt meter continuity setting. I found heavy copper flashing that I cut into strips with a a friends diamond band saw, much thicker than bertram originals, fold and bend to make corners and turns ending out back to your bonding plate, one leg per side. BH

[Joe E]

Thanks, I was thinking of running bolts through the stringer in a few spots instead of the pinch. I can also add later as I need them. I tend to store a lot up in the v birth and under the floor. I’m pretty sure they’re going to get bent over and eventually break. Any thoughts? Joe

[Peter]

Part of The bonding strap's purpose is related to radio freq. Interference and performance . For this purpose it is a good Idea to run the strap the full length of The boat. This is also the main reason you use a bonding strap not a round wire . However I doubt A foot or two short in the forepeak will matter much. Still it isn't only about the bonding wires physically connected..... So run it as far as you can.

Peter

[Pete Fallon]

Joe E,
If you haven't ripped the old ones out take a look at how the were attached to the stringers, If they are gone, the original OEM Bertram copper straps were glassed on to the stringer so they would not get ripped out or bent down.
They used a flat head bolt 1/4-20 threads bolt hole was drilled and soldered and the flat was on the side facing the stringer so the stud faces outward, mine are still original conditon, one strip on the outside of the inboard stringer next to the fuel tank, I dont have a transom zinc but it's a good idea.
The drops for each thru hull or anything that touches salt water are # 8 AWG green stranded wire with the closed lugs crimped and soldered at each end, I replaced all the drops 5 years ago. I also have two drops just aft of each strut pad area that are connected to a 3" x 6" zinc that is screwed into the strut pad plates. These have been in the boat since I got her 34 years ago and I've never had a problem with corrosion on any of the bronze underwater fittings. The internal zincs were put in at the factory in 1961, I've never changed them and they are almost new condition, I don't know why they are there but the original owner of my boat was the owner of Buss Fuse Co and he knew alot about electricity and corrosion.
Pete Fallon

[Capt.Frank]

Don't you need to bond the bow rail ( if have one), tower legs, and out rigger bases?

[Peter]

Yes you do need to bond the bow rail, tower, rub rail (if original aluminum rail,) outrigger bases etc...etc....
This has to do with radio performance and grounding similar to household grounding much more than any galvanic corrosion consideration.

Peter