Help with "frozen nut"

Hueso · Post by **Hueso** » Jun 18th, '12, 17:29

Yesterday while changing the zinc plate installed in one of my rudders with a mask and a snorkel, both sides of the zinc plate broke and I was left with a free wheel stainless steel screw and a frozen nut. I tried with two pressure pliers, but nothing. Had to quit because I had to play host to 12 family members including the father in law who spent Father's Day with me at the beach.

Plan is to tackle this project next Saturday and I would like suggestions on the easiest or less complicated way to do this. This time with an air tank, of course.

I thought of a fret saw or something like it. Any suggestions will be most appreciated.

In Memory Walter K · Post by **In Memory Walter K** » Jun 18th, '12, 18:15

Hueso-so we understand properly, our rudder zincs up north are usually two discs with a ss Allen head that goes through a threadless zinc half, through the rudder onto the other half of the zinc which IS threaded. Half a dozen turns on the allen wrench and the rudder is sandwiched snugly by the zinc discs. Sounds like your rudder zinc is different as it has a SS nut whose removal seems to be the problem, am I correct? Can you explain yours so we can try to be of help?

Hueso · Post by **Hueso** » Jun 18th, '12, 18:47

Walter:

You are correct. It is the one you are describing. Allen head on one side with threadless half and the other half threaded. The way they are sandwiched is by a nut affixed to port side of the zinc discs. Everything broke and I was left with the screw with the allen head on the starboard side of the rudder and the frozen nut on the threaded side on the port side.

IRGuy · Post by **IRGuy** » Jun 18th, '12, 18:59

Hueso...

With the boat in the water I can't see any practical way to remove the zinc mounting screw than to get two pairs of fairly large vice grip pliers and clamp one on the nut and the other close to the nut on the bolt shaft. Clamp the pliers side by side and pull on the right one while you push on the left one.

If that doesn't work out the only other way I can suggest is to hold the bolt with one pair and use a hacksaw, but cutting stuff under water is not easy.

Good luck!

Hueso · Post by **Hueso** » Jun 18th, '12, 19:08

These are example pics. You can notice there is a nut on one of the sides. All I was left with was the allen head screw with a nut on the other side.

In Memory Walter K · Post by **In Memory Walter K** » Jun 18th, '12, 19:09

On mine, the thread is cast into the zinc so there is no nut. The stainless threaded section if pressed down after pulling through one side might allow you to use a hacksaw on it. Won't be a piece of cake as stainless ain't soft. If you can work with a partner, maybe two Locking pliers might allow two of you to apply enough pressure to free up that frozen connection. The other thought that comes to mind is a lock cutter with the boat in shallow enough water for you to get some leverage.

Hueso · Post by **Hueso** » Jun 18th, '12, 19:10

IRGuy:

That was my take on it. I think I did not have the right pair of pressure pliers and yes it was a bit difficult doing it under water.

In Memory Walter K · Post by **In Memory Walter K** » Jun 18th, '12, 19:15

Be careful as I wouldn't want floating metal filings to screw up your diving equipment. Big lock cutters with a lot of CX on them after you take them out of the salt water might be the ticket as locks are often Stainless steel.

Hueso · Post by **Hueso** » Jun 18th, '12, 19:17

Walter:

Or metal hitting my mask....LOL!

Kevin · Post by **Kevin** » Jun 18th, '12, 20:28

What about a pair of vice grips and some good old back and forth? Metal fatigue.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Jun 18th, '12, 22:12

Huesso

Same Zincs I use. Like Walter said a bolt cutter. Tie a rope to it please. Then when you drop it you can get it back.

Also as suggested vice grips until and twist until the bolt snaps. Just don't bend the dam thing other wise you will have to go back to the bolt cutters.

Another suggestion, is an air grinder, compressor up on the dock, grinder in hand.

And by the way no matter what tool you use, when you surface rinse in Fresh water and then drop it in a container of oil.

I have never, in all my years seen one of those nuts freeze on.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Jun 19th, '12, 06:28

Stainless on Stainless can gall up with little effort. Once galled your Screwed (pun intended) and you can kiss the idea unscrewing the items apart away.

The good news is SS is not that strong and will fatigue rather easy...so as mentioned two wrenches and try to twist off...down side is that Allen Cap Screw and wrench, I'm not sure they will hold up to the torque required to twist it off. Could go to Vise Grips and or a Pipe wrench on the cap end, but gets awkward underwater. Then again it could just be locked up on some old Zinc or corrosion and with the extra force unscrew...it would be my 1st choice to try.

Hacksaw will take awhile. As you have space between nut and rudder, 5-10 minutes should do it. Not sure what the filings would harm on the dive equipment...it should all be positive pressure forcing crap out...But it's been awhile since I looked at new gear so maybe things changed.

I'd try to pick up a Nut splitter if available. Screw onto nut till it splits. Limited space could be a pain.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... 203P?mv=rr

For me playing under boats with dive equipment is cumbersome especially at neutral buoyancy...I found inflating the BC a bit held me to the bottom of the boat...kind of a backwards gravity.

bertram31.com

Help with "frozen nut"

Help with "frozen nut"

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