Coosa and/or Penski board question

DanielM · Post by **DanielM** » Mar 21st, '12, 23:45

Guys, I'm looking at using Coosa or Penski board in an application and I was wondering how well it would take a mechanical fastener.

In the spot I'm looking at I'll need to screw some other pieces to it. How well will these composite boards hold a screw?

Also would one brand be preferable? All that I have been able to find locally is Penski board.

Thanks.

Daniel

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Mar 22nd, '12, 08:25

Daniel,

Coosa and Penske are very similar products, both being fiber reinforced molded polyurethane. Penske comes in only 24 lb density while Coosa come in various densities, the highest being 26 lb.

Coosa Bluewater has the addition of of a layer of roving for higher strength on the flat axis. Both will hold a screw fine, depending on what the screw is holding and the forces exerted on the screw. Thickness will also be a consideration, as will skinning with fiberglass & resin.

Composites One in Houston carries Penske and possibly Coosa, some Composites One locations do and others don't...

Br,

Patrick

Bob H. · Post by **Bob H.** » Mar 22nd, '12, 12:46

Dan, Ive used them both as well, definately need a skin of glass to help hold that screw. BH

DanielM · Post by **DanielM** » Mar 23rd, '12, 00:51

Thanks for the info guys. If I go that route I'll cover it with glass and the screws won't have a great deal of force on them.

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Mar 23rd, '12, 07:52

I am building new cockpit soles out of coosa board.i used3/4" coosa with Matt lay up on top and mat with biax on bottom. Turn out real nice now I want to prepare top for non skid .what the best way to take the roughness out of the mat surface? Repeated coats of gel cote or fare out with micro balloon and resin to make economical fairing compound for a large area?

Bob H. · Post by **Bob H.** » Mar 23rd, '12, 17:59

Bob, Gotta try peel n ply when your glassing your deck, lay up as normal and lay the peel n ply into the wet resin/mat, take a glass roller and work it till its smooth and no air bubbles, go back next day, peel it off and it leaves a great texture much like a fabric pattern, need very little fairing if you take your time. Hit it with 36 grit and I fair with awl fair to get those few pinholes or low spots. Youll never glass without it again...BH

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Mar 23rd, '12, 18:15

Bob I am not sure I understand. The peel and stick is the final product ---------correct me if I am wrong. I was looking for a tough non skid this cockpit GE ts abused. I don't wand anybody slipping that's most important.your boat is being built for the same use so I would use anything you feel is the right way for our application.

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Mar 23rd, '12, 18:59

This cockpit sole will be unique. The port and starboard hatches will be 5' with kill boxes with drain to macerator.forward of these will be a 2" border and another hatch almost to engine hatch.the gears and trolling valves with be easily. Able to work on and periodic shaft alignment easy task.thank God I use 3 m 4200UV to hold down azek short panel walls and old glass tech. sole serve me well for 11 years and took up perfectly intact in 15 minutes.8 screw holding center section and that's it new sole will be exactly the same way

Bob H. · Post by **Bob H.** » Mar 23rd, '12, 19:46

Bob, the peel n ply or release fabric is an easy way to flatten out your mat surface thats a bit rough, my deck is a molded nonskid, try mas epoxy web site they should have a link to nibco, they make several nonskid deck patterns, you can order a sample kit an choose the finish your looking for. After the peel n ply you tape off the areas you dont want textured, etc. deck hatch borders, then you gel the deck and place the nonskid pattern on the wet gel coat roll it out, let it cure and remove leaving a slick textured non skid..without the sand look. Or the best non skid is from mother nature....Teak...BH

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Mar 23rd, '12, 21:16

Bob

My non skid is gel coat that was thickned with Cabosil and rolled on. It gives it peaks and valleys. It is 15 years now and is now ready to be redone. Debating on the best approach. I am not sure how gel will stick to gel if I try this approach again.

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Mar 23rd, '12, 21:35

tony at this point i do not know what i want to do with the non skid. i can go with this peel and stick on resin then paint white top coat of awl grip or i could apply gel-cote mixed with non skid and forget paint or put non skid in awl grip top coat and roll on with plain top coat over it. i thing the awl grip / non skid might hold up better then gel-cote non skid.i need captain patrick input here.possibly white gel-cote with non- skid and high density filler mix in to make stronger. right now i am looking at layer up mat/resin surface.i will roll on another coat of plain resin tomorrow to fill in the crevices in the mat.then wait for some input before final decision.

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Mar 23rd, '12, 21:41

Tony,

Getting new gelcoat to stick to old gelcoat can be a challange...

You'd need to grind the old gelcoat with 36 grit paper, (not necessary to remove it completely), to give the surface a deep tooth. Vaccum up all the dust and if possible, blow it down with compressed air.

Next you'll lay down a tie coat of catalized polyester resin. Catalize with MEKP at 4% and roll it down with a very smooth roller. The idea is to completely wet out the entire surface, but end up with a fairly thin film of resin. Let it kick over until tacky.

Apply the new gelcoat while the resin is tacky or with 18 hours of the resin application. Any additional coats should be applied when the previous coat has tacked up, but need to go down within 18 hours of the previous coat.

The tie coat resin should be a good quality layup resin, not a thick resin. Avoid Evercoat resins like the plague...

Br,

Patrick

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Mar 23rd, '12, 22:04

Capt Pat

Thanks. Looks like the easiest way out is Awl Grip and non skid. Probably best bet.

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Mar 23rd, '12, 22:06

Bob,

To smooth out the mat surface, first hit it with a light sanding using and DA and 80 grit. Just knock down the high spots. Now lay down at least one, possibly two layers of fiberglass veil. That will leave you with a fairly smooth surface.

The veil I prefer is a knitted Ninex product. (lower left in image below)

Building up straight resin is going to set you up for a potential of spider cracks later.

With the surface properly smoothed you can proceed with whatever top coat technique you want.

Br,

Patrick

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Mar 24th, '12, 07:26

Thank you ever so much! Completely forgot about vail.a good shot from the butt of a 80 would most likely crack a build up of resin.
I imagine you can save quite a bit of money if you skip the. Awlgrip primer ,top coat, the top coat with nonskid by just going with base coat gel cote ( white) then second coat mixed with non skid . Awlgrip is mighty expensive and all I need is white coloring ------- just sayen

bertram31.com

Coosa and/or Penski board question

Coosa and/or Penski board question

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