Stainless rubrail installation question

[IRGuy]

Happy Super Bowl Sunday!

While you are drinking your beers and filling yourself with chicken wings and assorted unhealthy munchies please consider my question...

I am soon to install 3/4" wide hollow half oval stainless rubrail on "Phoenix". This will go on the existing aluminum rather heavy rubrail base that was original equipment on the B33s. I am planning on using TefGel for the screws.. my question is related to how to bend the SS rail for the bow and aft corners.

I assume the rail should be bent so the center of each bend falls equidistant between two adjacent screw holes.. but what is the best way to actually make the bend?

Do you start in the middle of a short piece (maybe around 4' long piece for each corner) and fasten one screw at a time on alternating sides, using clamps to draw each section into the aluminum rail sucking both sides against it until the whole piece is fastened in place?

Or do you make some kind of bending jig where you squeeze a piece of rail between two pieces of wood cut with the same curve as the bends?

How do you keep the center of each bend, where the curvature is the greatest, from squshing flat as you bend it?

As always.. your input will be very much appreciated!

GO PATRIOTS!

[In Memory Walter K]

I would suspect that you will have to miter cut and butt the stern corners. The bow bend you will have to experiment with because of the hollow half oval choice of stainless edging. I'm guessing that the wider the strip, the more noticeable the "flattening" might be. Take a one foot length and bend it around the bow and you'll know what you might be dealing with. Perhaps not a problem at all.

[IRGuy]

Thanks Walter...

The B33 aft corners are rounded.. probably about a 3-4" radius, so they will have to be bent as well.

[Charlie J]

i bent my solid piece of rail useing a rubber mallet after the side was on, just bent it around, as for the bow screw it in or clamp it and work around the sides, again mine was solid, hope this helps, i put my seem in the middle of the transom you might have to install, mark, take off cut and re install to get a nice seam

[Raybo Marine NY]

you can bend the corners on a 31 as well, no need for a miter cut

[Mikey]

Just like what Charlie said. I have hollow-back 1" S/S rail and did it just like that. On the bow I installed the first screw at the bow in the middle of the section, thus having equal lengths in both directions. With two people I used pieces of 2x4 about two feet long to push the sections at the same time to the rub rail until they were as close as possible. Then I removed the S/S and gave it a slight bit more push so that when reattached it stayed in place without putting any strain on the screws. Same at the stern. I attached the section to the side and using the 2/4 method carefully pushing the bitter end around the corner. When satisfied that I had it correct, I removed it, gave it a bit of a push to relieve any spring and screwed it down. There is a slight bit of flair at the corners but not enough to show or worry over.
"Easy, peasy, Japanesy."

[Marshall Mahoney]

I used thru bolts -- not screws. Bolt up tight just before the corner, then bend the stainless around the corner and bolt up after the bend is made. Took two people -- one to make the bend and one to bolt up. Don't put too much pressure past the holes since it might kink. Push on the flat just past the corner.

--Marshall

[Marlin]

Did mostly the same except found the center of the length of rub rail and marked my center bending position to be in between the holes,also matched marked the bow, held in place, drilled the first hole thru and snugged up the 1 St bolt,held up this outer end with lines, while my helper held the other end, started the bend around ith rubber mallet and when we had a tight fit, drilled another hole and snugged uf that fastener,1 more thru bolt on each side of these original fasteners , thru bolted at all joints as well,did the stern cormersthe same always finding the middle between the holes,did not want to flatten or kink the molding at the hole,I did mine over vinyl which is probably a lot easier than over aluminum, I would probably test drill a location to see how much the drill bit is going to dance around, use a shortened bit or consider a starter/ centering bit that machinist use to locate a hole,then follow up with the correct drill size, the aluminum will not be as forgiving as the vinyl wnen u are tightening the screw and if not perfectly centered will can't and leave part of the screw head exposed to cotch the dock post etc, tapping the holes may be a consideration,do a test hole and use aluminum tapping lubricant,tapping is an art form in aluminum so as not to break off the tap ,the Capt has a great post on how to do this

[Raybo Marine NY]

the bow piece is such a large bend the stainless just goes right around it, even on tight bow and stern bends just put your screws and nice and easy bend the stainless pushing it close to the bend. trying to put the screw a little before the bends eliminates kinking of the metal. I realize we do this just about every week or so its something we dont think about but the stainless cooperates pretty easily.

[Mikey]

Oh, yea. Bolts at the end of sections and where there will be possible excess strain.

[IRGuy]

Thanks everybody for the info.. I think I might have been trying to overanalyze the procedure.. All good comments.. I have ordered the rail.. will be installing it in a few weeks after the boat is painted.

The info exchanged here is invaluable!

[bob lico]

My entire rub rail and stainless insert is thru bolted with 10-24 bolts, washers,and self locking nuts.144 bolts to do the job my friend Robbie did the job and he had help from Gumby!!!!!!