Off topic - need air clearing help

In Memory of Vicroy · Post by **In Memory of Vicroy** » Oct 21st, '11, 16:51

I'm trying to change the engine air filter on our 08 MB GL450 SUV. I've looked at a bunch of MB forums and tried to follow some step by step instructions, but when I get the cross bar between the suspension towers removed, then unsnap the latch at the rear of the air cleaaner box it's supposed to come free and lift off. It won't budge, like its firmly held in place with bolts or screws, but I see or feel none. I've tried some gentle prying but no dice. There is a yellow sticker on the side of one of the intake air hoses with a pix of a book and a wrench but nothing other to indicate where to lift, etc.

Long shot guys, but any of y'all got a clue how to do this? BTW I did change the two cabin air filters using a trick from one of those forums and turned a major job (including removal of the glove box) into a 30 second no-tools breeze, if anyone is interested.

UV, the frustrated mechanic

randall · Post by **randall** » Oct 21st, '11, 17:41

UV...i dont have a clue.

seems way over complicated for an air cleaner....what happened to the single wing nut hand tightened?

i read somewhere that new MBs have 87 servo motors!!

bet someone here will know.

In Memory of Vicroy · Post by **In Memory of Vicroy** » Oct 21st, '11, 18:16

Its still under warranty and had one burnt out tail light bulb + the "service needed" light was on, so we took it to the local dealer. Light bulb was free but they wanted something north of a grand to basically change the oil & a couple of filters. I respectfully declined to be robbed. Got a neighborhood place to change the oil & I ordered the filters, new wiper blades, etc on line and have done everything but figure out how to put the air cleaner in - a K&N for it was less than the MB paper filter so I have one ready to go if I can figure out how to gooooooooo...

Got the parts from a new place, partsgeek.com - real low prices and they got me the stuff the next day with real cheap shipping and no tax.

UV

Whaler1777 · Post by **Whaler1777** » Oct 21st, '11, 18:18

Sorry UV cant help you with that one... Just yet... My girlfriend is looking into purchasing a GL450, anything to look out for? Are they problematic?
Thanks...

Harry Babb · Post by **Harry Babb** » Oct 21st, '11, 19:37

Uhmmmmm......reminds me of a story.....who did not see that one coming?!?!?!?

Once there was a very prominant Gynocologist who was tired and looking for a new carreer.

So after much thought he decided to take up automotive mechanics.

A local trade school offered night classes and the doctor enrolled.

After weeks of rebuilding carburators and fuel injectors.....doing valve jobs.....changing clutches....replacing U-Joints and studying the inner workings of the internal combustion engine the class was nearing graduation day.

The final exam was rebuilding an engine.

The good doctor completed his final exam and turned it in, in record time.

He was shocked when he received his final score.....he made 125%.

His instructor explained....well I cranked your engine, it started on the first try, it had great oil pressure, ran at constant temperature and smoothe as silk.....you did a great job and that gave you 100% but you are the first student that I have ever had who rebuilt the engine by going thru the exhaust pipe.......

Vic......may be you started at the wrong end....LOL

What ever happened to the days when you went into the autoparts store and asked for a "Water Pump" for a Chevrolet......and the only question was......6 cylinder or 8?

Or brake shoes.....and the question was "Front or Back".....we once had a Tahoe.....the backup lights went out......$400.00 (No joke $400) and we were back in business.

Good luch Vic.....no help here! ! Sorry

hb

In Memory of Vicroy · Post by **In Memory of Vicroy** » Oct 21st, '11, 19:56

John - its a great vehicle. Tons of room, rides like a limo (air suspension), full time 4WD, and loads of power from an amazing V8. The GL450 is 335 hp and the GL550 is 385 which would be a waste. Gets reasonable gas milage too. Its my Bride's and she loves it. We have driven MBs since 1981 and have gotton 17, 16, & 14 years out of them so far. The GL450 has a 10 qt. oil pan and uses systhetic oil but has a 10,000 mile oil change interval.

It has a lot of gizmos, and 87 servo motors might be short a few. Drives like a small sedan.

Harry - send the guy to my house.

UV

PeterPalmieri · Post by **PeterPalmieri** » Oct 21st, '11, 20:21

The head light went out in my wifes altima. Went to auto barn bought a replacement bulb. Opened the hood couldn't figure it out. Looked in the manual which said see dealer for service. Called the dealer they wanted $250. Found a step by step on a forum online, had to take half the car apart just so I could squeeze a few fingers far enough in to scratch the heck out of my hands and remove and replace a bulb with two fingers including opening and closing a metal pin that clipped it in place.

A freaking nightmare, I'm pissed just thinking about it.

Rocky · Post by **Rocky** » Oct 21st, '11, 23:16

UV sorry I don't know the MBs just japanese brands and a few others.
All the new generation vehicles have changed quite a bit, how bout a picture of this airbox maybe I could recognize the way the cover is removed.

RAWicklund · Post by **RAWicklund** » Oct 22nd, '11, 07:00

UV, I think a grand is a fair price to change your filter..... how else do you expect MB to pay for those new lights and signs on the Superdome???

Just yanking your chain...... heading out the door to geaux vote.

But just like your cabin filters.... it's all about the learning curve.... the next time you do this it will be easy.

Ray

randall · Post by **randall** » Oct 22nd, '11, 07:23

well....at the other end of the spectrum we run honda civics. they are great but my one complaint is they put the oil filter where 95% of owners cant change them themselves. luckily i'm in the other 5% and dont have to pay someone else to change my oil.

new tail light cover for the tacoma.....$267. i have bought and run at least six cars for less than that.

In Memory of Vicroy · Post by **In Memory of Vicroy** » Oct 22nd, '11, 09:40

Shoot, I'm gonna let the air clearner compst for a few days while me & the Bride take our middle grandson to the camp for some fishing, coonass style. You hold my beer while I light dis here fuze, cher.....

UV

Jareb · Post by **Jareb** » Oct 22nd, '11, 11:15

UV,
Try this link:
http://mbworld.org/forums/gl-class-x164 ... ement.html

John

Peter · Post by **Peter** » Oct 22nd, '11, 21:06

This is the fist time I've seen The Fathful stumped.... something tells me it won't be for long.

Randall,... about those Civics... if you think the oil filter sucks just wait 'till you have to do a water pump! Big Hint: check U-Tube before you even try. The first step is to remove the left engine mount!

On the 'Cedes... I don''t have a clue how to change the filter, but I will say that the more recent the car the more it comes apart like a Chinese wooden puzzle... Whe you figure out just what edge to pull on, the whole thing comes apart in a second or two, but if you pull on the wrong edge,... well you just bought yourself an expensive pice of plastic.

Meanwhlie I wondering if the Germans have hired retired Englishmen for design engineers? You have to take off a strut brace to change an air filter? Sounds like a Rover or MG, or Healy to me!

Peter

IRGuy · Post by **IRGuy** » Oct 22nd, '11, 22:02

Heck...
The above all sound normal to me!

After all.. You have to remove the port fwd engine mount bracket to change out the raw water pump on my Cummins 6Bs!

Kevin · Post by **Kevin** » Oct 22nd, '11, 22:06

Searched online for a bit thinking that I would find some good instructions. Wow, the forums for other sites just do not compare to what we have here.

After about 30 minutes of searching I found a forum that seemed like it might be fruitful. The enquiring mind asks if the cross brace needs to be removed in order to change the filter. My mind automatically associates crossbrace to engine space so I think I am making progress(most threads deal with cabin air filter so they are useless in this case.) Several mindless responses/answers later I get to what I think is the somewhat well thought out set of instructions. I start reading and realize this a$$ clown is giving instructions on how to change the cabin air filter despite the original question not metioning anything about the cabin air filter.

My car is so old it does not even have a cabin air filter. Maybe I am the a$$ clown.

randall · Post by **randall** » Oct 23rd, '11, 08:59

when it comes to engineering no one can top the french. i inherited a peugeot 504. to be honest it drove really nice but....to check the oil you had to remove an oil soaked screen and ...there were NO center holes in the wheels. changing tires was interesting....no tire machine need apply. it died in the hospital parking at 3 in the morning after taking caren there for the birth of my son. i left it there.

i owned an austin healey for 25 years. impossible to change the filter without making a mess. upgraded to a spin on.

In Memory of Vicroy · Post by **In Memory of Vicroy** » Oct 23rd, '11, 18:16

Thanks, John, I hadn't seen that thread, and see where I probably went wrong - I didn't first remove the air inlet hoses and the two little panels. I'll give it another shot tomorrow.

It is incredible to me that its that much trouble to change the damn air filter....the "factory" instructions to change the cabin air filters are worse -* but the a-holes don't tell you that when you remove the cabin air intake housing under the hood -no tools needed, just un-snap two little latches - you are staring at the two side-by-side cabain air filters and can pull them out and stick the new ones in ...in 8 seconds...duhhhhhh.

But the English are the worst - I had an MG that adjusting the rear drum brakes was an all day job....no ratchet wheel, you had to add & subtract SHIMS under the studs that the brake shoes sat on to get the right lcearance, and it was pure trial & error, mostly error....oh yeah, and the twin downdraft carbs had "oil resovoirs" to drip motor oil on the leather accelerator pump pistons to keep them nice & supple.....arghhhhhhhh....I sold it to a kid who's check bounced and I almost didn't care....

UV

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Oct 23rd, '11, 21:10

Vicroy wrote: The GL450 has a 10 qt. oil pan and uses systhetic oil but has a 10,000 mile oil change interval.UV

Vic

Synthetic or not, I am not a believer of ever letting oil go 10,000 miles on a consistent basis. With Synthetic, cut it in half for mileage. Converntial oil don't more than 3000 on a regular basis. Car will go forever. Go 10,000, I bet you get sludge.

Kurt · Post by **Kurt** » Oct 23rd, '11, 21:40

I have to drop off 6 new m/b's in south florida in the morning. Will try to remember to ask one of the techs. Nice suv's. Made in Alabama.

Rocky · Post by **Rocky** » Oct 24th, '11, 09:14

Tony all the new 2012 Toyota cars are 10k miles on synthetic only motor oil.
We'll do a 5k svc on them will a check the cabin f., air f., and rotate tires with a simple multi point insp. sheet filled out, no oil change. It's all about 0-20W synthetic oil with extremely low oil clearance engines for low friction coefficients. Also with low tension rings and special boring/honing processes there is no more honing and putting in pistons/rings- factory will not let us.
And this is why most new gen engines are a bit noisier internally, hardly a piston skirt left and low tension everything., but the economy and displacement to power ratio is up. We will see soon the economy vs longetivity race to see which one the owner likes better!

Kurt · Post by **Kurt** » Oct 25th, '11, 20:29

Well, 2 dealers in 2 days and both looked at me like I had 10 heads when I posed the question. The one today didn't want to say anything at all. Didn't want to "analyze" a problem without seeing the car. You know...legal liability.
I almost lost it thinking there's a crazy Louisianna lawyer that might just sue because he CAN'T get the air cleaner apart. Haha!
Both said the side clips should release it. If the air tubes going to it get in the way, then remove them. If not properly reinstalled, you'll get a dash light for the air leak. A customer overheard us and joked they make it so you can't do anything these days.
Sorry couldn't help more.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Oct 25th, '11, 21:39

Rocky wrote:Tony all the new 2012 Toyota cars are 10k miles on synthetic only motor oil.

Rocky

Lets see what all these engines look like inside in 6 to 10 years with 10,000 mile oil changes. I am old school and not buying it.

Rawleigh · Post by **Rawleigh** » Oct 26th, '11, 07:43

I have the last 3 used oil analysis reports running Rotella T6 5W40 synthetic oil in my 2006 Ford 6.0 diesel. These engines are notoriously hard on oil (shearing) and it has stood up well even with the extended change intervals (13,501, 15,281. and 9,097 mile each). The truck has 95,000 miles on it. I was going to post it but can't figure out how to do it with a PDF.

In Memory of Vicroy · Post by **In Memory of Vicroy** » Oct 26th, '11, 09:12

Thanks, Kurt. I'm gonna give it anothr try soon....now it seems there are TWO air filters in there, so I'll probably need another K&N, but sure ain't gonna buy another one till I get it apart.

Yeah, they all hibe behind "legal liability". When we took ours to the dealer, as it turned out to get a tail light bulb changed under warranty, I asked them to please reset the "service needed" message on the dash display..."Oh NO, we can't do that unless we do the service, legal liability, you know".....I said " well, you know, it happens to be my F**KING CAR, not yours, and I hereby demand, under penalty of death by Bonga-Bonga, that you reset my G.D. light". The cute little "Service Advisor" didn't think it was funny at all. My neighborhood gararge guy who changed the oil did it in 8 seconds. Google it up and you can too, just hit & hold the "R" button for a few seconds.

UV

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Oct 26th, '11, 10:13

vic i hope your are right on that blinking code reminder.the only reason i have the brides m/b taken care of at the dealer other then the loan a car policy is removing those "TIME TO CHANGE OIL" as well as air in tires,brake and so on . she has been diving a m/b for 15 years this is her fourth one (clk) code drive me crazy!!! but car is flawless.

In Memory of Vicroy · Post by **In Memory of Vicroy** » Oct 26th, '11, 10:57

Bob - try this & the guy even has a German accent, so must be right:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gYMUCPWkKnw

I let the dealer do all the warranty work but once the warranty is out we use a specialty European auto shop here that has given us good service for many years. The MBs are expensive, but if you drive them for 15+ plus years they become real cheap. Lots of folks are scared of them, guess its the mistique or something, but they are just good cars.

BTW, I NVER rotate tires, its a myth. All it accomplishes is throw your wheel balance out so the dealer can charge you to reblanace....just watch and if you have some unusual wear on the side, etc, deal with it, its usually an alignment issue and rotating ain't gonna fix it, just wear out more tires.

UV

Hyena Love · Post by **Hyena Love** » Oct 26th, '11, 12:52

When the Warden was driving a BMW awhile back, our local BMW service provider had a 95K mile BMW 3 series engine openned up and on display. Sign read - effects of following the factory 15K oil change interval.

Engine internals looked like hell. Sludge everywhere.

No clue whether it was just a great ad for more frequent oil changes or the real deal.

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Oct 26th, '11, 18:50

thank you ever so much vic . i never would think they would have a video for eliminating codes on one particular model of m/b. cannot rotate tires the rear tires are much wider then front and all four tires are one direction with arrow.you get a flat you put dummy on tire and mercedes will change at roadside for life of car.i never drive her car with that kidskin light beige leather interior. i would need a full field inspection before i could even think about it (like remove fishing knife from belt).she never drives over 50mph so it is a ridiculous senior citizen car . clk is a real sport car .

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Oct 26th, '11, 21:01

Hyena Love wrote:When the Warden was driving a BMW awhile back, our local BMW service provider had a 95K mile BMW 3 series engine openned up and on display. Sign read - effects of following the factory 15K oil change interval.

Engine internals looked like hell. Sludge everywhere.

No clue whether it was just a great ad for more frequent oil changes or the real deal.

That is what I am saying. It is a plot by the auto companies. Figure they can not sell cars if the dam things go 200,000 or more miles. Change the oil every 10,000 to 15,000 and you will buying a new car every 100,000 from gunked up engines.

In Memory Walter K · Post by **In Memory Walter K** » Oct 26th, '11, 22:16

I change every 3000 mi. I have a 1988 Chevy Celebrity wagon with 170.000 mi, a Mercedes 560 SEC with 156,000 mi, and a 1998 Chevy Tahoe with 107,000 mi. None of them burn oil between changes.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Oct 27th, '11, 21:25

Walter K wrote:I change every 3000 mi. I have a 1988 Chevy Celebrity wagon with 170.000 mi, a Mercedes 560 SEC with 156,000 mi, and a 1998 Chevy Tahoe with 107,000 mi. None of them burn oil between changes.

Walter

95 ford Ranger with 235,000 miles. Doesn't burn a drop of oil. About a year ago it started to get a lifter tap. Changed the oil, threw in a half quart of synthetic, tap is gone. Now I add the half quart of synthetic every oil change.

In Memory of Vicroy · Post by **In Memory of Vicroy** » Oct 31st, '11, 12:55

Mission at least half accomplished with the air cleaner. Followed John's link above and the air box finally came loose. Better have a Torx 25 handy to take it apart once removed, then......you discover there are TWO frickin' air filters in there, one for each side.......so the one K&N I bought needs a twin. So I get to take the car apart again soon. Now we havin' fun....

But it can be done by mere mortals, with the correct tools that is, and lots of time.....so to change the air filters, you (1) unsnap and remove the cabin air intake box to get it outta the way; (2) take five 10mm cap screws loose to remove a shroud; (3) remove four large bolts with Torx heads, but 10mm socket wil fit, and 16mm nuts; (4) remove the cross bar betwen the suspension towers that the 4 bolts was holding in place; (5) take the two intake air hoses off the air cleaner box; (6) remove a 1" rubber hose from the air box; (7) unlatch the rear of the air box and lift out over the engine, you back is hurting pretty bad by now; (8) take the air box into the shop and flip it over and start taking the 8 Torx 25 screws out that hold the filter covers, then remove old filfter and install new ones....reverse course to put it all back....took me about 45 minutes and I had the right tools at hand. Mercedes dealers' security for sure.

Thanks for y'all's help. The K&Ns come with a sticker to slap on the air box telling the world not to change the damn things, ever again......

UV

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Oct 31st, '11, 21:52

UV

Now you know why it cost a grand. German engineering at it's finest. Take some thing simple and complicate it.

I know, my father in law was born here but hs is German and he was an engineer. Helping him around the house do repairs was a real treat. Talk about over building. He would put the good Capt. to shame.

In Memory of Vicroy · Post by **In Memory of Vicroy** » Nov 1st, '11, 08:54

Tony, roger that. My bro in law is German & he & my sister are architects. They designed & built an office building for me some 30 years ago and he "overbuilt" to the extreme - like real redwood plywood for the soffets & overhangs, solid redwood facure boards, copper louvers, a 45 year roof with copper valleys, and that kinds stuff, plus huge electrical boxes, way more than code....I bitched at the time but over the years we had virt8ually zero issues and when I sold the place last year got a helfty premium. That roof, after at least a dozen hurricanes and one bad tornado, lost one shingle in 30 years.

On the other hand, the Volvo stuff is sort of the counterpoint to the German - overengineered but underbuilt.

And I'll put in another plug for my new online auto parts place, www.partsgeek.com - ordered the second K&N filter yesterday afternoon and got a shipping notice last night it will be on my doorstep tomorrow.

UV

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Off topic - need air clearing help

Off topic - need air clearing help

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