suggestions for filling holes in clear acrylic
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suggestions for filling holes in clear acrylic
I have a curved acrylic shield that cracked a bit when my guys were drilling holes through it. I need to fill the holes and I am hoping one of the experts on here has been through a similar scenario.
Any pointers?
Any pointers?
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Any suggestions here on LI?there is a specific adhesive for it, if you have a plastics guy close by maybe get some from him or just ask him to glue it up for you
I wish it was that simple.Break a coolant shield on one of the Matsuura's...???
Ray
Okay, this is part of a large assembly for a new Canadian anti-submarine helicopter. This is called the "splash guard", it is a 4 foot tall by 2 foot diameter sealed "tube" that the sonar buoy rests in after being pulled up through the hull. It keeps all the salt water contained.
Two halves of curved acrylic assembled to all sorts of metal parts and plastic re-enforcers. One little mess up and now the full assembly is in jeopardy, meanwhile Sikorsky is yelling at me for the thing.
- In Memory Walter K
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I was going to suggest a delicately placed drop of acetone placed at the base of the drilled hole with the fine crack coming from it. The capillary action would run it into the length of the crack and "weld" the two together. Given the importance of what you are doing, I hesitate to suggest it. You be the judge. Also, consider going to one of those "invisible" windshield repair guys that seem to do miracles on fine windshield chips and hairline breaks and see what they have to suggest. Walter
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The correct and only welding solvent for acrylic is Methylene Chloride, commonly refered to as MEC.
For plugging holes, the plug has to exactly match the hole. As Walter said, capillary action will draw the solvent in, but only MEC will effect the weld.
Cracking and chipping due to drilling usually comes from using the wrong type of drill bit. See: ---- Drilling Acrylic ----
For plugging holes, the plug has to exactly match the hole. As Walter said, capillary action will draw the solvent in, but only MEC will effect the weld.
Cracking and chipping due to drilling usually comes from using the wrong type of drill bit. See: ---- Drilling Acrylic ----
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John,
If the hole to be plugged is round, carefully tap it and clean the threads soap and water then rinse well. Machine a dowel from the same acrylic and thread to match the tapped hole. Clean as above.
Screw the threaded rod onto the hole, apply the MEC with a dropper or syringe, allow 15 minutes for the solvent to fully evaporate before proceeding. Cut the excess rod, wet sand the surface through 2000 grit paper and polish with a plastic polish.
Novus is one brand of plastic polish, but I use, and by far, prefer the polishing supplies produced by Micro-Surface Finishing Products, Inc.
If the hole to be plugged is round, carefully tap it and clean the threads soap and water then rinse well. Machine a dowel from the same acrylic and thread to match the tapped hole. Clean as above.
Screw the threaded rod onto the hole, apply the MEC with a dropper or syringe, allow 15 minutes for the solvent to fully evaporate before proceeding. Cut the excess rod, wet sand the surface through 2000 grit paper and polish with a plastic polish.
Novus is one brand of plastic polish, but I use, and by far, prefer the polishing supplies produced by Micro-Surface Finishing Products, Inc.
I remember in high school (a long time ago) going on a field trip to Carolina Biological supply and watching them make the acrylic tube displays for the preserved specimens as Capt. Pa says. They use clear tubes with colored pieces of flat acrylic cut in squares as ends. They put the tube down on the flat piece and used a needle to put a drop of MEC at the joint. The capillary action pulled in into the joint and welded it together. I never could remember what the chemical was until Pat just told me. Where do you buy some? I have MEK, but not MEC.
Rawleigh
1966 FBC 31
1966 FBC 31
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