Bow chock

ZeroCavity · Post by **ZeroCavity** » Sep 19th, '11, 15:00

Peter Palmieri :

The anchor ball system is great BUT the storage space is limited on our boats ( ball + bucket ). When the kids or guests are with me they can use the foot pedals. When I am by myself I use the cordless remote control.

http://www.lewmar.com/products.asp?id=8 ... &channel=1

I'm OK with one cleat BUT 2 is better.

PeterPalmieri · Post by **PeterPalmieri** » Sep 19th, '11, 19:51

Good point Gerry. I don't mind making a mess of the deck while fishing but when we've got the family and friends out for a cruise having the anchor and line in the cockpit would be a drag. I also don't regularly anchor in big water. Love the remote very slick.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Sep 19th, '11, 21:04

Gerry

How far up do you raise the anchor when you lift with the power winch? I assume at some point you need to go up on the bow to lift the anchor into the boat.

PeterPalmieri · Post by **PeterPalmieri** » Sep 20th, '11, 10:41

Think I am going to go with the bow chock, two cleats and a larger oval hawes pipe centered behind the cleats. Also need to move the anchor holding bracket forward to it's original position.

As far as the two cleats go, should I use a metal backing plate or epoxied ply?

Skipper Dick · Post by **Skipper Dick** » Sep 20th, '11, 10:46

Use metal like 1/4 aluminum if possible. Those cleats will have a lot of tension appliled during a wind storm.

Dick

In Memory of Vicroy · Post by **In Memory of Vicroy** » Sep 20th, '11, 11:08

I wish I had two cleats, will change my one to two one of these days....and maybe two cleats with s Samson's post in the middle? And the strongest backing palte you can find....I like the aluminum. I made a backing plate for my fighting chair out of half inch aluminum and cut it to fit with a saber saw....trick to cutting it, use WD-40 as the coolant/lube and a lot of it...oil or CX won't do, need something light to flush out the cut particles.

And on the hawes pipe, make sure you gdt the kind with the spring loaded top vs. the loose top with the flimsy bead chain......how do I know?....

UV

TailhookTom · Post by **TailhookTom** » Sep 20th, '11, 12:20

My backing plate for my fighting chair was also made from 1/2" aluminum. Damn thing was 4 foot square too! We glassed it right to the bottom of the new deck when we made it, then drilled and tapped it for the mounting plate of the chair to bolt directly into it.

Rock solid, you could have picked the boat up by it!

UV -- how come you never told me about the little bead chain problem.....before I learned the hard way too?

Skipper Dick · Post by **Skipper Dick** » Sep 20th, '11, 12:30

I made this pulpit a couple of years ago out of fiberglass with a plywood core using a mold I made. It's larger than I would like, but it isn't as gaudy as some.

Dick
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PeterPalmieri · Post by **PeterPalmieri** » Sep 20th, '11, 12:36

Edited for you

mike ohlstein · Post by **mike ohlstein** » Sep 20th, '11, 13:26

Peter,

I have all of the Al you'll need for every backing plate on the boat.

Anything to get that damn POD out of my driveway......

TailhookTom · Post by **TailhookTom** » Sep 20th, '11, 14:04

Aluminum sinkers? Boy would they have to be big to find bottom!

PeterPalmieri · Post by **PeterPalmieri** » Sep 20th, '11, 14:05

Mike,

I am going to take you up on the offer just have measure where the cleats are going to go.

Skipper Dick · Post by **Skipper Dick** » Sep 20th, '11, 14:10

I used to make aluminum wad cutters for my .357 Magnum. They didn't carry far, but at close range (10 to 30 feet) they would destroy a 3 inch phone book and you didn't have to worry about the damn thing going through a wall.

Dick

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Sep 20th, '11, 15:39

peter what you describe in your post is my setup . i did not want to start WW. lll concerning early to later year f/g lay up so lets just say my 1973 fbc was a exception . capt patrick saw the underside of the v-berth without ceiling . the front deck is 11/4"thick from the factory (untouch green glass) with 1" marine plywood laminated with 1/4" glass on top and a few lay ups on the inside.
i have a 316ss oval chain and rope deck pipe by suncor.

PeterPalmieri · Post by **PeterPalmieri** » Sep 20th, '11, 16:01

Bob,

You've got some good ideas, I'm gonna steal this one too. I will likely turn the hawsepipe 90 degrees though. Anything you would have done differently?

mike ohlstein · Post by **mike ohlstein** » Sep 20th, '11, 16:50

I would have set the cleats back a bit. If you're going to custom make line to fit properly so that you just have to loop the cleat or post....... when you're that close to the chock it's a little harder to get chafe guard on the line. Six inches back, and you have no problem.

Bob?

JP Dalik · Post by **JP Dalik** » Sep 20th, '11, 16:54

Peter,

Consider moving the cleats back to where Bob has his deck pipe, you can move the deck pipe to port or stbd it won't be out of place either way. The further away from the edge of the boat your cleats are the safer it will be for the people putting on the ropes.

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Sep 20th, '11, 18:34

peter the opening of the deck pipe has to face opposite the water for obvious reasons . there is a strong SS spring built in that keeps the door tightly closed but when you open it you slide it to left and it stays open to get chain coupling thru then slid to right and it snaps close----user friendly!!!.
the cleat to bow distance was predicated from the original single cleat .i used the existing outer 5/16" holes to line up with two cleat system ,try to avoid a repair paint situation on a finish product . oh! the one cleat system sucks absolutely the worst !!!

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Sep 20th, '11, 20:58

Bob

How close are those cleats to the bow chock? From the picture you posted, the one on my 75 looks like it sits further back.

I think this spring I will add the second cleat also.

What is the best way to beef up the whole deck. Glass in 1/2 plywood that has been cut to the shape of the deck going from edge to edge and corner to corner or is there a better way?

Rawleigh · Post by **Rawleigh** » Sep 21st, '11, 07:55

I think I will go to two cleats as well. I was thinking about it during Hurricane Irene.

capy · Post by **capy** » Sep 21st, '11, 08:04

I have three

3 12" ss...........comes in handy when "rafting" up ..........HOWDY!!!!

JP Dalik · Post by **JP Dalik** » Sep 21st, '11, 08:31

clean and simple- cleats sit away from the edge, deck pipe out of the way and windless on center.

The G-hook is used to attach the anchor line and chain together, you can also use it to add another shot of anchor line if needed.

In Memory of Vicroy · Post by **In Memory of Vicroy** » Sep 21st, '11, 09:03

JP - I like that....what kind of windlas is that, and where is the switch?

UV

JP Dalik · Post by **JP Dalik** » Sep 21st, '11, 11:04

Thanks UV,

The windless was on the girl when we got her, had the parts rechromed, I've gotta stick my head in the locker to find out again.

The solenoid would be activated from the flybridge, this way its a 2 man operation and someone can keep an eye on the person up front. Can't tell you the last time we used it, the ball is faster in deep water and keeps everyone in the cockpit.

PeterPalmieri · Post by **PeterPalmieri** » Sep 21st, '11, 12:29

JP, I really like that location allows the cleats to move back and also allows the line to easily flow out of the deck pipe and around a cleat.

Has anyone considered splitting the locker so in use anchor line is on one side and additional line can be on the other without having to dig out underneath the anchor line?

Rawleigh · Post by **Rawleigh** » Sep 21st, '11, 12:42

Vic: I have a Lewmar just like that on mine, but with a single factory cleat. The waterproof push button for mine is on the deck by the starboard rail near the gunnel so that you can tail the line and wind at the same time.

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Sep 21st, '11, 12:42

very nice jp . i try to avoid the repaint and usually the part two of the imron,awlgrip,or endura is dryed out ,a bitch when you need a ounce! like i said the two cleat system was put on after a bad situation with the one cleat.
this is a cross section of the deck after cutting out for the installation of the rope@ chain pipe . i have work on a 1964,two 1967, 0ne 70,72 ,73 and a 79 in the yard none of them had this deck build up . yes two elephants could sit on the deck but most important this support runs from bow to windshield tab into v-berth bulkhead and underdeck stringers . the windshield composite is tie in to it making a one piece contruction . this is the most prone part of a powerboat to show structural faults due to constant pounding into the waves.

here is another look of the two cleat setup using existing 5/16" bolt holes

mike ohlstein · Post by **mike ohlstein** » Sep 21st, '11, 12:53

So Bob, what are those fancy braded line crimp things?

TailhookTom · Post by **TailhookTom** » Sep 21st, '11, 13:11

I don't know either, Mike. However, I must say that based on that fiberglass and plywood layup, there must have been a B31 parked on the bow of Bob's! That is some heavy layup!

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Sep 21st, '11, 13:21

i use them in my home slip totally protected from the elements.i use the factory made loops on my regular lines. mike did you ever look at the underside of your deck from v-berth ceiling ? i still have no idea why mine came from bertram this way . i have a 3/4" plywood backer glass in to the underside of the gunnel and have only seen a few with this add on , definite factory installed with green tinted glass lay up. the 67 fbc deck you could use as a spring board------------------what gives??

mike ohlstein · Post by **mike ohlstein** » Sep 21st, '11, 13:41

I'm going to cut a hole in the deck pretty soon, so I'll let you know.....

I have 3/4" ply under the gunwales too.

PeterPalmieri · Post by **PeterPalmieri** » Sep 21st, '11, 14:36

The liner is down in my v berth and there is no ply wood. Forward of the locker compartment is a bit of a mess I will have take pictures with a real camera w/flash and see what's there. To the sides of the bow hatch is a bit "springy".

I did notice when putting in the bridge seats factory glassed in ply on the rear end of the bridge deck. But it does not extend all the way forward it stops about 16" from the front of the bridge deck.

TailhookTom · Post by **TailhookTom** » Sep 21st, '11, 14:40

My 73 B31 had plywood also glassed in by the factory -- but not as thick as yours, Bob!

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Sep 21st, '11, 17:09

thanks tom at least we have a concrete evidence it was not some special order one on one , perhaps they did this change for the 1973 year only????? tom do you have 3/4" marine plywood laminated under the gunwale. mine starts at the mid ship cleat and goes all the way around to the opposite mid ship cleat. another question under the v-berth bertram laminated this deck to 4 stringers that run from bow to v-berth entry bulkhead then they laminated along side mahogony strips to hold up the oem. vinyl on plywood ceiling rather then just put the ceiling screws into the stringers, sort of redundant i would think.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Sep 21st, '11, 20:52

I know I have plywood up front. I am not sure how thick it is. Have to look this weekend. I do know that under the gunwale is 3/4. Is it possible that at some point Bertram felt that since they were using 3/4 for the deck, it was just as cheap to use it in other places rather than use 1/2?

TailhookTom · Post by **TailhookTom** » Sep 22nd, '11, 08:11

Bob:

Yes, my boat had 3/4" marine ply under the gunwhale -- there was no flex there, nor on my forward deck either. I never had to cut into the bow of the boat, so I don't know how thick the plywood was that was glassed in up there, but it was in the green resin and very visible when I replaced the headliner up there.

Tom

PeterPalmieri · Post by **PeterPalmieri** » Sep 29th, '11, 13:15

As it turns out there was plywood glassed in very poorly supporting the deck in the anchor locker and there is no plywood under the headliner accept where it supports the windshield. It was to hard to get a decent pic with lack of light. Wood doesn't seem wet but the glass holding it up is poorly done and a huge mess.

Should I replace what was done in the anchor locker and if so with what?

Just looked at Spencers work and am wondering if I need support under the headliner to the sides and behind the bow hatch?

PeterPalmieri · Post by **PeterPalmieri** » Oct 4th, '11, 07:53

So I'd like to replace the plywood backing in the anchor locker while I am putting back the bow chock, deck pipe and moving the cleats. Can I use coosa board for this? And if so how?

As I understand I can not use self taping screws into the coosa and everything needs a backing plate.

Is this a good idea and where can I pick up coosa board?

bertram31.com

Bow chock

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