My most recent issue was loose grounds in the ignition system. Plugs were fowling etc. Got that squared away and had a tune up done. The motor is running better then ever. Just a little to late to make the Greenport run. Got it back on Thursday night.
I also had a compression test done on the 454 with 2300 hours. All came back between 130 and 140 that is good news.
Before I start jumping up and down for joy what else should I be concerning myself with in regards to this motor? It certainly spent some time being run on E10 with the fiberglass tank. How can I be proactive to make sure I cut off any of the other potential E issues?
This old gasser
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PeterPalmieri
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- Location: Babylon, NY
This old gasser
1969 31 Bertram FBC "East Wind" hull #315939
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In Memory Walter K
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The fouled plugs may be some of it. If you start losing rpms at wot after a while, check them again. Since you put in a new tank, hopefully the fuel and vent lines were also changed to the newer ethanol-proof ones. If not, have them done. Not that this is a sure thing, but I might consider using these new ethanol related additives for a while until you feel the engines are running the way you want them. Don't know why, but I always had a gut feeling that you didn't need a rebuild on that engine. Congratulations and enjoy! Walter
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In Memory of Vicroy
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Likewise with Walter that's real good news...now.....just run the boat and learn as you go..don't try to anticipate all the crap that can (and will) go wrong....It took me 3 or 4 years to get comfortable with my B31 and fix a bunch of stupid little things the prior owners let slide.
Just go fishing. And shoot all that new CX you have all over everything.
UV
Just go fishing. And shoot all that new CX you have all over everything.
UV
If you haven't done so already, clean those motors top to bottom. A little WD-40, carb cleaner, paper towels, q-tips, etc., until they're immaculate. That way, you can see any gasket/seal failure right away. A properly oiled 454 at our hp numbers will run just about forever. Until you get a handle on your motors/E-10, etc., I'd pull a plug a take a look every couple of trips.
1968 B20 Moppie - Hull # 201-937
1969 B31 FBC - Hull # 315-881 (sold)
1977 B31 FBC - Hull # BERG1652M77J (sold)
1969 B31 FBC - Hull # 315-881 (sold)
1977 B31 FBC - Hull # BERG1652M77J (sold)
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PeterPalmieri
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- Location: Babylon, NY
New fuel lines went in with the tank. Still smokes when I push her towards WOT but I'm not loosing oil. Running as good as ever.
I've used two cans of CX on the bertram and one on the flats boat and trailer. I haven't made it into the electrical panel or the bridge yet.
I'll keep my fingers crossed.
I've used two cans of CX on the bertram and one on the flats boat and trailer. I haven't made it into the electrical panel or the bridge yet.
I'll keep my fingers crossed.
1969 31 Bertram FBC "East Wind" hull #315939
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PeterPalmieri
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I was dead in the water with the E-10 and the engines pretty much came back on their own.
I say pretty much as I needed Amsoil Foam cleaner to keep everything from locking up when I let the engine cool down and I found Techtron Fuel Additive worked best to keep it running. The Techtron is the stuff in the black bottles that cost about twice as much as the other additives. I tried it as someone here mentioned it was a very good potent additive that was the same formula that Texaco uses in there Premium fuel. But that was when I was running on the Fiberglass tank, before I knew the tank was the problem.
Once I changed the tank and allowed motors to run on clean fuel I stopped using the additives and cleaners after the first run. Rpms came back after a few runs and I have been back in business since.
I'm thinking if your running your running and the E-10 problems are behind you. Provided all the parts in the fuel system have been changed to deal with E-10.
Smoke and fouled plugs...are you carberated? Are plugs wet and smell like fuel? back plugs? May be a carb issue. On my 440's I would foul the rear plugs when trolling too long...Bring up to speed, she'd stumble, I'd get a backfire and it was good to go...at least that is what former owner told me...I hated that solution and went with NGK V-Fire Plugs. They don't foul out for me, ending that problem.
I say pretty much as I needed Amsoil Foam cleaner to keep everything from locking up when I let the engine cool down and I found Techtron Fuel Additive worked best to keep it running. The Techtron is the stuff in the black bottles that cost about twice as much as the other additives. I tried it as someone here mentioned it was a very good potent additive that was the same formula that Texaco uses in there Premium fuel. But that was when I was running on the Fiberglass tank, before I knew the tank was the problem.
Once I changed the tank and allowed motors to run on clean fuel I stopped using the additives and cleaners after the first run. Rpms came back after a few runs and I have been back in business since.
I'm thinking if your running your running and the E-10 problems are behind you. Provided all the parts in the fuel system have been changed to deal with E-10.
Smoke and fouled plugs...are you carberated? Are plugs wet and smell like fuel? back plugs? May be a carb issue. On my 440's I would foul the rear plugs when trolling too long...Bring up to speed, she'd stumble, I'd get a backfire and it was good to go...at least that is what former owner told me...I hated that solution and went with NGK V-Fire Plugs. They don't foul out for me, ending that problem.
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Tony Meola
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Peter
That is good news. Like we all said, don't panic yet.
What color is the smoke. If it is blue then you have some oil getting into the cylanders. If white, it is steam aka condensation.
If it is blue but you don't appear to be burning oil it could valve seals that are slowly dripping down.
It might also be residue from the fiberglass burning off.
Other thing is that if the oil was not changed enough you could have some oil return ports clogged. If the oil filler is in the valve cover, take the cape off and look into the cover. If it is clean you are good, if it looks like it has sludge then the oil was not changed enough. If that is case, next time you change the oil, before you change it, put some type of flush in it and get it good and hot and change the oil. Then run it for a couple of weeks and do it again.
Good luck and glad all is working out. I hope those props are working out for you.
That is good news. Like we all said, don't panic yet.
What color is the smoke. If it is blue then you have some oil getting into the cylanders. If white, it is steam aka condensation.
If it is blue but you don't appear to be burning oil it could valve seals that are slowly dripping down.
It might also be residue from the fiberglass burning off.
Other thing is that if the oil was not changed enough you could have some oil return ports clogged. If the oil filler is in the valve cover, take the cape off and look into the cover. If it is clean you are good, if it looks like it has sludge then the oil was not changed enough. If that is case, next time you change the oil, before you change it, put some type of flush in it and get it good and hot and change the oil. Then run it for a couple of weeks and do it again.
Good luck and glad all is working out. I hope those props are working out for you.
1975 FBC BERG1467-315
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