B31 rub rail

[gcreas1]

Anyone out there have experience replacing the original rub rail on a B31? I have seen some units available on line, look like PVC replacements for the original aluminum unit. Have looked up in the bow and the fasteners are not screws but bolts with nuts on the interior. Can imagine if same entire length of craft it would be a very difficult task to take off the old rub rail.
Would appreciate any information on this project.

Thanks all

[Charlie J]

yes the only place that has bolts is in the bow section, the rest is screwed in, take a grinder and grind off the screw heads, when i did mine i just had to get a section stated and just pulled the rail off, amazingly i was able to get the nuts off of the bolts in the bow after all these years

[CaptPatrick]

PVC Guard Rail Installation

[bob lico]

if you are one of the anal one`s like me the entire replacement rub rail is bolt,washer and ny-lock nuts 144 in all . some places are hard to access. you going to keep her then go for it!!!!

[Pete Fallon]

gcreas1

Like Bob and Charlie said only about 5-6 nuts and thru bolts on the bow section.Drop the V berth head liner and peal down the vinyl or rug on the hull sides. Spray the 5-6 nuts with CX, the rest of the sides are screws they will pry off easily, depending how old your boat is the screws are usually not holding by much. There might be a few thru bolts at the transom corners. The hardest part is getting to the inside of the hanging lockers and under the galley and head sinks.
My bow rail was loose but in very good condition, I took the entire bow section off on piece all the way around to the ends of the hanging lockers, knocked the old screws out from the inside of the rub rail, epoxied the outward turning flange joint, and thru bolted with 2-1/2"( 1/4-20) flat head phillips stainless steel with surface washers on the inside and caulked with boat life. Also used tefgel between bolts and aluminum rail, used a countersink to open up old holes for the new flat head thru-bolts. Repainted the aluminum with automotive flat black trim paint made by Carheart, paint lasts for 4-5 years in the Florida sun, when it starts to look bad, just repaint it again.
I did this when I was redoing the liner and overhead in the V berth, I still want to do the rest of the boat, this summer. I pity the next guy if he wants to put a vinyl rail on, he better have a good cut-off wheel.

Like Bob says there are 144 thru bolts some are 2-1/4" and some are 2-1/2" and a few will be 2-3/4". If your rail is in good shape you can grind out the scratches if there not too deep. There is a lot of meat on the old rails, it's a time consuming labor intensive job be for under $300.00 in materials it's alot cheaper than a new vinyl rail. Mine is 50 years old and still looks good after the rehab.
Don't forget to caulk above and below the rail joint once it's on, it keeps the black streaks form running down the hull sides.
Pete

[TailhookTom]

When we put the new rubrail on Tailhook, my friend screwed in all the bolts from the outside, while I held the wrench on the nylock nuts on the inside, I have fond memories (and scars) for doing the areas in the galley, particularly up under the sink -- good times!

[gcreas1]

Thanks to all for the information, the more I read, the better my current rub rail looks. It might be on my to do list for a while.

[PeterPalmieri]

Gcreas1,

I am in agreement. I wasn't considering changing out my rub rail and as I read through this thread I am pretty convinced this will never be on my list.

[Capt. Mac Creech]

I think the new rubrail really ads to the looks of the boat. I was not going to replace mine when I had Jaded Lady painted last year. Decided to at last minute and glad I did. It's worth the effort.
Mac