Windshield canvas cover install question

Dug · Post by **Dug** » May 12th, '11, 09:44

I was fortunate enough to have been given a canvas cover for my windshield (lower, cabin) and would like to mount it up during the next few weeks. While looking for canvas snap styles available, I have a myriad of intriguing options...

For those with more experience, how thick is the aluminum window frame around the outside and at the joints between the side window and the forward sections?

I will have to drill 22 or so holes in this, and want to select the best type of screw. Should I get the 3/8" or 5/8" long screws in wood screw style? Or should I buy machine screw style and drill and tap.

Clearly I will use plastic washers and tef gel the crap out of these. But looking for advice.

I am planning to replace the aluminum windows at some point in the future, or I would probably not be contemplating drilling any holes in these frames at all. But at this point, it is less of a concern to me due to future plans.

Any feedback on this from the more experienced would be really, really helpful.

Thanks!

Dug

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » May 12th, '11, 10:00

The windshield frame extrusion is 3/16" - 1/4" around the perimeter. Use the male snaps that already have the 1/4" tapping screws, (you still have to pre-drill the holes). If you do use plastic washers, use 3/8" screw snaps.

Plastic washers aren't necessary if you coat the back of the snap with TefGel. Shoot the female snaps with CX a couple of time a year...

JP Dalik · Post by **JP Dalik** » May 12th, '11, 10:26

Dug-

There's no way you need 22 screws in that cover- maybe 16 at the most. That's 3 on each end one on the bottom in the middle of the curve and one on top and bottom of each vertical support and ending at the vertical seam in the center of the boat

First make sure it fits- most windsheilds are a little different.

The four corners can be drilled in the aluminum for the ends of the piece and use ice picks through the fabric to hold the ends of the cover in place- you can probable drill the aluminum as you start to go around the corners of the house in advance as well then pull stretch and curse until you get all the darts and wrinkles pulled out. Drill as few holes as possible, the shape of this thing once pinned down will hold it in place.

Do it on a warm day- if the cover is new it will be at its largest now and will will shrink with salt water and sunlight. They are a little tricky to get right and the ice picks really help if you need to adjust. If your scared of poking holes in the fabric you can try double sided tape, however the end result will be a looser fit.

TailhookTom · Post by **TailhookTom** » May 12th, '11, 10:42

Dug:

I saw the end of your post - "future plans" - does that mean glassing in the windshield?

Tom

PeterPalmieri · Post by **PeterPalmieri** » May 12th, '11, 10:54

Sorry for the potentially silly question but what is the point? I know they are fairly common.

Is this to keep sun out of the cabin while at the dock? Or instead of interior curtains while underway too?

Maybe another reason I am over looking?

Russ Pagels · Post by **Russ Pagels** » May 12th, '11, 11:33

Dug, on my old boat I used 12 I think.If the one you have doesn't fit they only cost about $200.
Peter,In the case of my boat they also stoped the green water from leaking in the windows..Russ

In Memory of Vicroy · Post by **In Memory of Vicroy** » May 12th, '11, 12:03

Pete - obviously you ain't been out in yours yet in a heavy rain or in real sloppy seas...the front and side windows LEAK, leak, leak and there is little you can do to totally stop it short of glassing in the front and putting solid tempered glass side windows (like I have). My boat has air conditioning so all this freah air crap ain't for me, cause where air goes, water do too. One of the first things I did to AJ was add some very thick automotive weatherstripping around the front deck hatch and instruct passengers to never open it unless its an emergency. My v-berths and cabine are dry as a bone and it makes a huge differnece in keeping mildew and the resulting odors at bay. I keep a fan and a Happy's Air-Dry going all the time on board to insure dryness.

Sure, the light and breeze are fine, but don't expect to keep the water out, just live with it.

UV

PeterPalmieri · Post by **PeterPalmieri** » May 12th, '11, 12:21

No I haven't taken any big waves over the bow to know. From rain and washing down the boat mine don't seem to leak to bad. But I could see green water being a different experience. Interesting that canvas does a decent job keeping it out.

John F. · Post by **John F.** » May 12th, '11, 12:35

The other advantage is that the cover keeps the UV (the sun--not Uncle Vic) from your plexi curved side windows so they'll last/look better.

Dug-When I redid my windows and wanted to use my cover, there was no way I'd screw into the aluminum frame again. I got snap extenders that were about 3" long and went into the foredeck and just under the brow. Worked great. I think I only had 12 snaps--6 top, 6 bottom. Just an idea.

My bad--just looked at a pic--12 bottom/6 top. I think you'd be fine with less.

Russ Pagels · Post by **Russ Pagels** » May 12th, '11, 13:13

Dug,I like Johns idea of snap extenders.Mine had a front cover when I bought it. No fuff gel was used and the frames corroded. I redid them with tuff gel but the damage was alredy done...Russ

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » May 12th, '11, 14:40

dug here is a very early picture of my boat taken when i first drop her in. i installed a winshield cover and kept it on for a number of years before i did the windshield job. like jp said put it on knew and forget about it cause you will never stretch the s.o.b. back to meet the snaps again . i would say it help the rain from coming in but i would not think it would help if it was under greenwater. i only had 12 snaps/

Kevin · Post by **Kevin** » May 12th, '11, 15:55

I have 7 snaps on aluminum frame. 3 on each side and a single snap in the center at the base. It survided Huricane Wilma and I estimated the boat took blows well over 75. They said we had gusts around 100 if I recall corectly. After about a year just wash with soapy water and re-apply water proofing product. Water will run right off it so I get no water inside the cabin. Worked for a bad green water hit as well while in bahamas. Under estimated the wake of a yacht coming off plane and buried it real bad. I thought I may have damaged pulpit but not a drop in cabin.

JGomber · Post by **JGomber** » May 13th, '11, 07:30

Dug,

It is obvious that JP has been there - done that where this project is concerned! Oh, the pain...pulling and stretching every spring.
That was before the snap extenders (expensive little devils!!)

As a side note, I'd suggest that you use the completed cover, with snaps properly located, for a template. Since most project timetables tend to stretch longer than that cover ever will, you might want to have an economy model made for a winter cover. My original windshield cover weathered a lot over the past ten years. It was relegated to a winter use cover when I replaced it with a new, better looking one a few years ago. The "new" one will look better longer and the winter cover does yoeman duty in the bad weather.

Just an idea tha worked for me.

Good luck

Mikey · Post by **Mikey** » May 13th, '11, 10:00

John F
Was thinking of doing what you did. Didn't want to screw into the frame. Do you have pictures? Love to see the installation. How did you template the cover.

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » May 13th, '11, 16:37

just a note of interest i have the side windows and frames as you see them here direct replacement will not fit with windshied job (ask me how i know this) just a fair contribution to the captain . paited in awlgrip oyster white same as oem bertram gel-cote.

John F. · Post by **John F.** » May 13th, '11, 17:54

Mikey-

Best I can do. If you look closely at the snaps at the top of the windshield under the brow, you can see the snap extenders. My B31 came with the black sunbrella covers, and I liked them and kept them. The fit a better than it looks in the pic. with them on. The canvas guy I use had 6 or 8 of the extenders made up, and just gave them to me.

John

Mikey · Post by **Mikey** » May 14th, '11, 09:21

John, Thanks. That helps.

What material have any of you used besides Sunbrella? Saw covers on another boat that were a fiberglas material (highly sun resistant) that allowed some sun through so the cabin wasn't claustrophobic.

John F. · Post by **John F.** » May 14th, '11, 11:12

Mikey-

The canvas guy showed me some material that you couldn't see through from the outside, but you could look right through from the inside. If I had gotten the covers redone, that's what I would've used. Whatever it is, I've seen it on a number of boats--it seems pretty common.

John

Mikey · Post by **Mikey** » May 14th, '11, 14:29

John, Thanks, what the hell is it?

John F. · Post by **John F.** » May 14th, '11, 14:46

Mikey - I'd tell you if I knew--ask a canvas guy. I see it alot on trawlers. Keeps the sun and eyes out, but lets the light in.

alano · Post by **alano** » May 14th, '11, 16:48

There's several different products - Phifertex (Texilene) is a vinyl coated polyester screen - it's about the cheapest, it's what you see on cruiser type boats. Ferrari (Stamoid) makes a product that differs in light transmission depending on the color - it's a vinyl coated polyester but is more random and is really nice although about 3 times the price. Sunbrella makes a shade product as well (sunbrella with holoes punched in it) - I just made 4 large panels for a pergola and it is a really nice product - about the same price as the stamoid. The phifertex is the only one that you can really see through well although I wouldn't suggest running the boat with any of them on. BR, Alan.

Preston Burrows · Post by **Preston Burrows** » May 15th, '11, 06:35

Textilene will help keep the sun out...........but not rain or sea water.......solid vinyl is best for the windows!

I use textilene as a sun blocker for the cockpit of my boat, helps tremendously at the dock slip or when on anchor in keeping the back deck cooler as well as for a bit of added privacy.
I zip it on to the aft sunbrella cover whenever I need to use it, notice the difference in shading with respect to the sun on the textilene cover versus the cockpit deck :

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » May 15th, '11, 08:17

i use stamoid on my windshield cover . basicly if you buy the product in white it is translucent and along with tinted glass on side windows allows you a private cabin with more then ample light.

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » May 15th, '11, 21:46

I beleive JJ who used to be on the board had his made in issenglass. Maybe JP knows how his held up.

Dug · Post by **Dug** » May 16th, '11, 09:59

Wow! Great answers!

This cover is stamoid and has all the female snaps attached already. So I will match the snaps. 22 was from memory, it may not be this many. There is another cover that came with it, and I cannot remember what that is for. Maybe that is what the rest are for. Regardless, I'm less worried about the specific count of screws, than the methodology.

JP, thanks for the great info on temp. I know the same situation applies for my enclosure.

My purpose for using this cover is a bit of water diversion, but more privacy, and heat reduction. Plus my cabin cushions were new 10 years ago, and just plain died last summer. UV light. Tom, yes, I would like to do my windshield like Bob and many others have. Bobs was a bit of an inspiration to me last summer. So this will do until I have the time, $$$ and inclination. And Pat, that was the plan. Tef gel the crap out of them!!!

Thanks everyone!!! Brilliant!!!!

Dug

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Windshield canvas cover install question

Windshield canvas cover install question

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