Teak & Mahogany Cabinetry

tunawish · Post by **tunawish** » Feb 9th, '11, 12:55

$5k of Burmese Teak used to build Outdoor Kitchen we finished before winter.
I wasn't to happy with grain of teak given cost but was the best from 2000 B/F I picked, It did even out the more it aged.. still better than the plantation teak I looked at but triple the cost, not sure it was worth it..
No where like the stock that was readily available 10 years ago... Customer still loved it.. Oil finish is Buju's mix with 10% linseed oil..

Chest was duplicated from a photograph designer showed client.. Made out of Crotch Mahogany we had to book match, stain and glaze..
It was redesigned to fit 70% "In the Wall"....
*note painting above turns into TV

http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/dd29 ... 20drawers/

Ray

mike ohlstein · Post by **mike ohlstein** » Feb 9th, '11, 14:12

Nice.

Any left over?

randall · Post by **randall** » Feb 9th, '11, 14:55

very nice!!....i hate it when folks outdoor stuff is nicer and bigger than my indoor counterpart. (no pun intended, i think)

tunawish · Post by **tunawish** » Feb 9th, '11, 15:51

Mike, what do you need.??

Randall.. One of three magnificent homes this client has ..
plus a 120' Perini Navi,

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Feb 9th, '11, 18:08

don`t say off topic this is very much the topic of those of us whom find it very differcult to find beautiful grain teak/mahogony for 31 bertram interior!

tunawish · Post by **tunawish** » Feb 9th, '11, 18:19

Bob,
Noted and Corrected...

IRGuy · Post by **IRGuy** » Feb 9th, '11, 19:50

About 18 months ago I had a local guy get me about 40 board feet of rough 5/4 teak at a price of about $21 per bf delivered to my house. I understand it is now about $25 to $30 per bf. I used some of it to build a teak sliding door and some to do the face framing and trim for the new cabinets I designed and built for the stbd side of the cabin. I use teak veneer on larger flat surfaces, which I get from a veneer mill for about $120 per 4'x8' sheet, paper backed.

I recently asked a local independant old time boat builder what he did with his leftover scrap teak.. he answered that "scrap teak was like scrap p*s*y.. there ain't no such thing!"

randall · Post by **randall** » Feb 9th, '11, 19:59

bob...lots of scrap left over mahogany here. feel free.

tunawish · Post by **tunawish** » Feb 9th, '11, 20:58

IRGuy wrote:About 18 months ago I had a local guy get me about 40 board feet of rough 5/4 teak at a price of about $21 per bf delivered to my house. I understand it is now about $25 to $30 per bf. I used some of it to build a teak sliding door and some to do the face framing and trim for the new cabinets I designed and built for the stbd side of the cabin. I use teak veneer on larger flat surfaces, which I get from a veneer mill for about $120 per 4'x8' sheet, paper backed.

I recently asked a local independant old time boat builder what he did with his leftover scrap teak.. he answered that "scrap teak was like scrap p*s*y.. there ain't no such thing!"

That's a pretty good price for Burmese Teak at that small a quantity!! Did they specify weather you received Plantation or Burmese.. ?? We have to ask or they'll sell you Plantation.. When I bought 250 b/f they"gave it to me " for $20 b/f and let me pick it... plantation was around $15 b/f.. butt ugly though..
We get 4x8 sheets of 1/2 " or 3/4" teak veneer laid up on marine ply for about $140 spec order

All my "scrap" teak is taped up in small bundles and in the rack..none of it gets thrown away.. someone / friend is always coming in and needs a small part made.... the mahogany I cut up and burn in the stove..

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Feb 9th, '11, 21:23

perhaps i might be the minority opinion but i would not consider plantation at any price . i am not building a fence this is the interior of the best boat ever built and if you cannot wait and do the "right" thing then don`t do it at all. this entails looking high and low for one piece of 3" wide by 11/2" thick by 6' long mahogony in tiger grain or quarter sawed as a pro. like buju would correct me.i have two others just trying to match for styles and rails of the door for the head.

IRGuy · Post by **IRGuy** » Feb 13th, '11, 23:08

Tunawish...

My guy told me it was Burmese, but who knows for sure. When I ran it through my thickness planer it came out great. Although I am rebuilding my boat, I am trying to do it with concerns for cost. I wouldn't mind using plantation grown as long as it was for interior work.. but I bought the batch primarily so I could build an enlarged sliding cabin door. What was leftover I used for trim and the face frame for the new cabinets.

One of the guys in the building where I am working on my boat just bought a bunch of 14" wide 4/4 teak to make covering boards for a 1960 Merritt he is working on. Beautiful stuff.. no blemishes.. perfect!

tunawish · Post by **tunawish** » Feb 14th, '11, 01:25

IRGuy wrote:Tunawish...

One of the guys in the building where I am working on my boat just bought a bunch of 14" wide 4/4 teak to make covering boards for a 1960 Merritt he is working on. Beautiful stuff.. no blemishes.. perfect!

If he's got 14" wide stock 90% it will be Burmese....Very rare if we see anything over 10"- 12" ... Mahogany I often have at 22" wide ...

Ray

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Feb 14th, '11, 10:26

i looked high and low to find 14" burmise teak . the 31 bertram requires 14" wide due to the curveture at mid ships . i had to use two 7" pcs side by side but instead of biscuits i spline the entire length. i wish i contacted you guys back then ,it would look a hell of lot better without splice!

tunawish · Post by **tunawish** » Feb 14th, '11, 12:25

Bob
Not uncommon to spline/glue up....much more stable .. just have to match grain.. We rarely use a piece that wide unless it's absolutely necessary and it hardly ever is..

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Feb 14th, '11, 13:34

i match the grain the best i could, at least the transum covering board is one piece. i am still a wood working rookie but i grew up with my father as a general contractor . i use the table saw with datto blade to make grove on both pieces then cut a teak spline the entire lengh and glued with w/p gorrilla . that entire board was set in reinforced 1/2" thick epoxy then screwed with ss screws and washers from the bottom of the gunnel into the covering board -----no bungs or any other outside screws .i now have 11/4" teak,1/2" expoxy , 1/4 " fiberglass (oem.) and 3/4" marine plywood under the gunnel-------there is 0 flex !!!

CamB25 · Post by **CamB25** » Feb 16th, '11, 12:46

It's like a race to see who cuts down the last Teak tree. Same thing happened with Honduran mahagony. I'm using Ipe for outdoor furnitrue/decks and spending a lot of time picking through african mahagony stacks (lots of "crap" being shipped over here) for projects.

I am considering Iroko for my B25 woodwork. I have stained and epoxy sealed a few test pieces. Very nice for a lot less $$.

Cam

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Feb 16th, '11, 13:05

i was wondering about a wood called lignum vitae . i had no complaint with ipe and use it in my entire interior as a border for doors ,cabinets, and most of all as a border (5/16") around the teak and holly floorboards .a million times better then the stock alluminum crap in looks and wear. the only downside is it is murder on tool bits especially router bits. if you go to a real lumber yard you can pick and choose grain as i did on salon table.try this place www.condonlumber.net .

Rawleigh · Post by **Rawleigh** » Feb 16th, '11, 13:30

Bob: Lignum vitae is EXTREMELY HARD and heavy. I think it is also oily. I was used around here in the old days to make marine railways out of. It was also used as bearing material for machinery

In Memory Walter K · Post by **In Memory Walter K** » Feb 16th, '11, 13:30

Bob-It's the National Tree of the Island of Jamaica. My memory of it when I worked on Air Jamaica was that they considered it a very hard wood. How hard in terms of carpentry, I don't know.

CamB25 · Post by **CamB25** » Feb 16th, '11, 13:39

That's a great application for Ipe. I haven't noticed excessive tool wear with the Ipe wood I've used, but Ipe is a generic name for many different wood types from that area of the world. You never know what tree it came from! I think lignum vitae (ironwood and other names) has similar mechancial properites to Ipe, but I've never worked with it. Very dense tropical woods. Depends on the application on the boat, but I don't see a real advantage to the super hard/dense woods for trim, etc. Too much of a weight penalty and it's next to impossible to get any penetration with seal/stain/varnish. And the splinters are like hyperdermic needles!

Check out the janka hardenss scale for relative comparisons. Lignum vitae wood is so hard I think it could be used for reduction gears.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janka_hardness_test

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Feb 16th, '11, 13:39

rawleigh/walterk that sounds like great characteristics for covering boards or any other location in the cockpit ,toerail that would be subject to abuse . i would imagine buju has some secret fomula to use to make the wood accept oil or vanish.

wmachovina · Post by **wmachovina** » Feb 17th, '11, 08:21

Used to live in Islamorada and there is a Lignum Vitae Key(now a state park) just on the bayside where the tree used to grow .I planted one in my yard and twenty years later its only12 feet tall. The wood used to be use as cutlass/shaft bearings for the old WW2 Liberty ships. Hard self lubricating stuff.Could be tough finding big pieces as slow as it grows.

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Feb 17th, '11, 08:38

my application for floorboard trim in the cabin was because the teak/ holly plywood can chip on 90 degree edge . the teak/holly is laminated to coosa board and the trim protects both on all edges. total weight is still half the original but that is not a factor because the power is enormous.here is one floorboard

PeterPalmieri · Post by **PeterPalmieri** » Feb 17th, '11, 08:44

That looks great bob and looked even better on the boat. I have the metal trim on the edge of my floor and it is a pain in the neck as the corner broke. It's a hassle every Time I check the bildge

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Feb 17th, '11, 10:40

i constantly remove floorboard to put water in fresh water tank.the auto pilot and smart heading sensor flux gate compass is located dead center of bilge below floorboard for maximum accurate reading. so i remove floorboard to keep check . don`t forget this is isolated from cockpit bilge with seperate power,seperate bilge pumps so this area is dry and spotless .

Buju · Post by **Buju** » Feb 17th, '11, 13:17

Bob - leave the "tree of life" alone, and stick with the ipÃ© devilwood.
Lignum Vitae is actually endangered & protected, and I beleive the trade of it is prohibited in the states, because it was harvested to near extinction. I know it's on the CITES listing, I think CITES appd II.
So, chances are, you'd be gettin something similar to Lignum Vitae like Verawood- (which isn't in the same genus) if ordered.
I've screwed around with a little of it. I wouldn't finish it with a clear film. It's got such a high oil content, coupled with incredible density and hardness, that the wood can be polished instead. Buffing pad works great- leaves a nice satin/semigloss sheen, and easy to redux anytime... but that dosen't matter caue you're gonna leave it alone, right Bob? :)

Bill - miss seeing SeaChelle on San Remo... Just finished up some work there, and no pretty B31 to look at on the way out. Bum deal.

Ray - really, really nice job on that mahogany piece, and the teak cabinetry too. But that mahogany grain.... incredible. Keep up the inspirational work my man...

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Feb 17th, '11, 13:38

buju on your word alone i will not touch it and for that matter i am very happy with working with teak, mahogony, ipe wood combination. thanks to you on the preparation of ipe before varnish ------very satisfied. my ipe salon table bulletproof! the grandchildren play here ,coloring books, cut out for crafts and rigging for the crew ,you name it!-----thank again buju

tunawish · Post by **tunawish** » Feb 20th, '11, 20:01

Buju, ...Thanks..
To bad there are only a few select clients willing to pay for pieces like that... That crotch veneer was stupid expensive..

If you ever want to do anything wild I found a great old timer that has some crazy flitches ....

bertram31.com

Teak & Mahogany Cabinetry

Teak & Mahogany Cabinetry

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