How to install a stern drain plug?

STeveZ · Post by **STeveZ** » Dec 1st, '10, 12:40

Since my drain plug is located under my battery shelf and my B28 typically gets blocked stern down I'm thinking this would make my life a lot easier. Do you just drill a hole and 5100 something like this in?

I'm thinking I've seen some that have a flange both inside and outside the stern?

Does it matter if you drill from the inside or outside? Any potential problem drilling fiberglass? Any tricks/pitfalls to be aware of?

Thanks in advance!

Rawleigh · Post by **Rawleigh** » Dec 1st, '10, 13:17

On my 31 I used 5200 and it is outside.

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Dec 1st, '10, 13:19

The garbard drain will be fitted from the outside and you want the hole to be as flush with the bottom centerline as possible.

Standard high speed drill bits. Srart from the inside with the bit size to fit the plug, but only drill partially through. Shift to a much smaller bit and drill through, centering on the larger dit's dimple. Finish drilling with the large bit from the outside, using the small hole as the guide point. You can also use a hole saw if you want, but use a fairly slow speed to keep from overheating the teeth.

Pre-drill the mounting holes with the appropriate size bit for the screws and dry fit the drain. If your're happy with the fit, remove the screws and apply 5200 to the drain flange and the inside of the hole you drilled. Screw it down and clean up the excess caulk.

In Memory Walter K · Post by **In Memory Walter K** » Dec 1st, '10, 14:25

Ground it?

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Dec 1st, '10, 15:17

Not necessary here, Walter. It gets painted and no water flows through it except on the hard and if someone launches without the plug screwed back in....

Charlie J · Post by **Charlie J** » Dec 1st, '10, 15:46

that answers that question, mines not grounded, started to wonder

Bruce · Post by **Bruce** » Dec 1st, '10, 16:28

If the electrosys is bad enough, it will eat away but by then you'll have much worse problems.

Rawleigh · Post by **Rawleigh** » Dec 1st, '10, 16:38

Also remember that the hull halves are glassed together and that the bottom is really thick right there. Go inside if possible and drill a pilot hole as close to the inside of the bilge as possible. It will probably have a down angle because you can't get the chuck too close to the bottom, but it will get you in the ballpark.

Raybo Marine NY · Post by **Raybo Marine NY** » Dec 1st, '10, 18:42

you will also want to remove the antifouling from the area to get a good proper seal

sand off a good enough area after drilling but before installing, then just touch it up a little bit

randall · Post by **randall** » Dec 1st, '10, 19:07

patrick...what is the finish on the running gear? i only saw
"buddy boy " in the water.

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Dec 1st, '10, 19:24

Randy,

All the painted running gear was acid washed, epoxy anti-corrosion primed and then two coats of original Trilux containing tin. Interlux has now replaced Trilux and Micron 33 with Trilux 33.

Thank You EPA... (not)

Don't know how well the new stuff works, but the original was damned near bullet proof.

Br,

Patrick

ianupton · Post by **ianupton** » Dec 1st, '10, 19:41

Every boat that I have had has been kept dry stacked. With that you have the luxury of running alot of hose water through the boat to rinse things down.

I have always been frustrated with little items clogging up the very small garboard transom drain. This has a 1" plug in it. The part is 3 1/8" in diameter.

I plan on putting this in my B20 project assuming there is space under the outdrive.

http://www.fisheriessupply.com/productg ... s=garboard

Ian.

randall · Post by **randall** » Dec 1st, '10, 19:54

thanks ....mine definitely need some work.

scot · Post by **scot** » Dec 1st, '10, 20:18

When you start to drill the big hole, first drill a pilot hole with a seperate std drill bit. Align the larger hole saw bit where you want it and start the process with the drill in reverse. This will keep the gelcoat from chipping around the hole. Especially important with a hole saw type bit.

Once you have established a decent groove for the hole saw bit...put it in forward and go to town, slowly. Leaves a nice smooth hole with no chipping or damage to the surrounding gelcoat.

Rawleigh · Post by **Rawleigh** » Dec 2nd, '10, 09:26

Good tip Scot!!

ed c. · Post by **ed c.** » Dec 2nd, '10, 18:25

I put my plug on the bottom before the bilge pump, inside the boat, tapped the plug and grounded same.

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Dec 2nd, '10, 19:02

When I put mine in I used the ones with the plug on the inside...something about having a plug on the outside of the boat made me nervous...at least now if it ever loosens and falls out...I know where it went and where it should be...not on the bottom of the ocean.

Did these boat come thru with drains??? Mine didn't have a Drain Plug when I got her. Got a call from the Marina when they hauled it telling me they could not find it...sure enough they were right.

In Memory Walter K · Post by **In Memory Walter K** » Dec 2nd, '10, 19:34

Mine's on the starboard side about where the lower station on a Sportsfisherman is. Walter

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Dec 2nd, '10, 21:34

Sim

Mine is slightly off center on the port side up in the cabin just before the forward bilge pump.

Marlin · Post by **Marlin** » Dec 2nd, '10, 21:44

my need for drain plugs are to be able to have accessability from the inside of the boat during a huricane, I installed 1 forward ,1 midship, 1 aft with handles, busy during a storm and may not find a wrench easily and dont tred water well { boat is also on a lift} last huricane sunk a lot of boats on boat lifts , another perspective

gplume · Post by **gplume** » Dec 5th, '10, 20:49

Well this post has motivated me to add a rear drain......

I cannot understand why the center drain on a lot of B 31's (?? in Raw water intake post I asked the question...not seeing this post.)

Walter suggested vaccuming out the water....I noramlly do this also, but often I get slight leakage through my cover down the T tower stanchions, so it is a temporary solution. If I dry things out, and the baot is level...about 3-4 weeks of a noramlly stromy winter and water is back up tot he drain plug. Only twice I got here tight enough so not a drop leaked in. The year i took the tower off...and one year i went animal with the tape around each stanchion and was able to make a water tight seal.

Any way...had enough....gonna put another hole in my boat......

coolair · Post by **coolair** » Dec 6th, '10, 00:25

well since yall brought up the center drain in the cabin. I gotta ask
The guy at boat yard told me alot of old boats had them as more or less a
"crash" valve as in if the boat was on fire pull the plug and partially sink it to keep it from burning up. i didn't really buy the story just wondering if yall ever heard this.

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Dec 6th, '10, 00:51

I think the boat yard guy was smoking funny stuff...

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Dec 6th, '10, 17:45

Be interesting to see the expression on the Insurance adjusters face when he hears that...

ya see I saw smoke and naturally I opened the deck hatches and pulled plug to let water in to put the fire out...then it started to sink...but at least the fire went out...well most of it anyway...as the flames rose higher then the water coming in...that was till the boat was under...then it completely went out, at least I think so. I did manage to save this plug... So when do I get my insurance check? Do I get more since it was a sinking fire??

In Memory Walter K · Post by **In Memory Walter K** » Dec 6th, '10, 18:09

If he doesn't know that burning fuel floats he shouldn't be allowed anywhere near a boat.

Charlie J · Post by **Charlie J** » Dec 6th, '10, 18:16

i have both midship and stern plugs, a little water in the bilge during the winter is no big deal, even if it freezes wheres it going to go. i dont even shrink wrap the boat anymore. its solid glass, it just a little more work cleaning her up in the spring, shrink wrapping for 4 months out of the year just is not worth it for what they charge, besides its a bertram

Marlin · Post by **Marlin** » Dec 9th, '10, 20:29

i think shrink wrap is the worst thing u could do to a boat, in the old days of canvas winter covers, the wind would blow, the canvas would luff, but there was air movement thru the boat, now they are hermetically sealed, the marinas love it, they charge u to shrink wrap the boat for 500$ and then a few years later they are willing to repair the mold, mildew, rot and give u a discount on the moisture saturated electronics for 20000$,

Brewster Minton · Post by **Brewster Minton** » Dec 9th, '10, 21:01

You can buy a nice rod for the same price as a shrink rap. Then catch some fish.

bertram31.com

How to install a stern drain plug?

How to install a stern drain plug?

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