I am including pictures of the existing rudders on my 1969 Bertram31 Moppie Cuddy. After introducing her on an earlier post "New Owners of a 1969 Bertram 31" some of you guys suggested I look into installing new rudders. Can anyone tell me from the pictures which rudders I presently have (the original B31, the modified B31 or the B28??).
I really don't want to replace these original bronze rudders but will make my decision once I get her in the water and test her out.
Thanks - Harry
Rudders
Moderators: CaptPatrick, mike ohlstein, Bruce
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- Posts: 25
- Joined: Oct 31st, '10, 12:19
- Location: Coldwater, Ontario, Canada
Rudders
1969 - Hull #312-899
I have a 69 FBC, and they look like the same rudders that were on mine. I think they're bigger than the 28 style, and smaller than the new 31 rudders. I put Capt. Patrick's rudders on my boat, and that was one of the best things I've done. I highly, highly recommend them, especially if you ever plan to slow troll on one motor, or if you lose a motor and need to come home on one. Really easy install, but your boat needs to be up high enough to let the rudders drop out, or if your on gravel (mine was), you can dig a hole. You'll also need to look at the top of the rudder and see whether the arms attach under or over the rudder shelf. There are pretty good pics./diagrams under the rudder parts section of the site. Neat boat by the way...
1968 B20 Moppie - Hull # 201-937
1969 B31 FBC - Hull # 315-881 (sold)
1977 B31 FBC - Hull # BERG1652M77J (sold)
1969 B31 FBC - Hull # 315-881 (sold)
1977 B31 FBC - Hull # BERG1652M77J (sold)
- Pete Fallon
- Senior Member
- Posts: 1318
- Joined: Jun 29th, '06, 23:10
- Location: Stuart Fl. and Salem, Ma.
Harry,
Looks like your rudders are the orginal 28 style. Like John said the larger rudders are definitly the way to go, they can be changed out latter.
The first thing I would do is to install a garboard drain plug in the transom or make sure that the boat is angled to the forward drain plug if there is one, the stress cracks in the transom look like water has frozen in the bilge and expanded, the 31 transoms are not very thick.
I also saw quite a few blisters in the bottom surface, does not look like the bottom was ever painted, I would take care of them as soon as possible if the boat is going to be left in the water for any lenght of time, even in fresh water osmotic blistering can ruin a botton real quick. If it's going to be on a lift I would fix them at my leasure.
Regarding the brown Formica that your wife dosn't like, it can be sanded and painted with a good high gloss 2 part paint. The projects begin! Good luck
Pete Fallon
Looks like your rudders are the orginal 28 style. Like John said the larger rudders are definitly the way to go, they can be changed out latter.
The first thing I would do is to install a garboard drain plug in the transom or make sure that the boat is angled to the forward drain plug if there is one, the stress cracks in the transom look like water has frozen in the bilge and expanded, the 31 transoms are not very thick.
I also saw quite a few blisters in the bottom surface, does not look like the bottom was ever painted, I would take care of them as soon as possible if the boat is going to be left in the water for any lenght of time, even in fresh water osmotic blistering can ruin a botton real quick. If it's going to be on a lift I would fix them at my leasure.
Regarding the brown Formica that your wife dosn't like, it can be sanded and painted with a good high gloss 2 part paint. The projects begin! Good luck
Pete Fallon
Yup,
You got blisters a plenty. If you media blast the bottom it will open all of those blisters up (this is a good thing and gets it all done at once), allow them to drain and the hull to dry, sand fill sand and barrier coat then its done forever.
Than transom doesn't look like anything but the two piece hull assembly, little shrinkage and cracking, not ice damage. If you look at the bow it will probably look the same, not structural just the same as every other one ever built.
You have a real advantage for blister repair having no bottom paint. I would still blast the bottom to make sure you find all of the blister, sand with 80 grit fill and sand again and barrier coat then put a final bottom paint color on her. Remember to keep the chines sharp not rounded over with the sander. This is your first job on the boat. Congrats and welcome to 40 year old boat ownership. Buy a grinder a sander and lots of dust masks.
Enjoy the fun, it'll be a cool boat when she's all done.
You got blisters a plenty. If you media blast the bottom it will open all of those blisters up (this is a good thing and gets it all done at once), allow them to drain and the hull to dry, sand fill sand and barrier coat then its done forever.
Than transom doesn't look like anything but the two piece hull assembly, little shrinkage and cracking, not ice damage. If you look at the bow it will probably look the same, not structural just the same as every other one ever built.
You have a real advantage for blister repair having no bottom paint. I would still blast the bottom to make sure you find all of the blister, sand with 80 grit fill and sand again and barrier coat then put a final bottom paint color on her. Remember to keep the chines sharp not rounded over with the sander. This is your first job on the boat. Congrats and welcome to 40 year old boat ownership. Buy a grinder a sander and lots of dust masks.
Enjoy the fun, it'll be a cool boat when she's all done.
KR
JP
1977 RLDT "CHIMERA"
JP
1977 RLDT "CHIMERA"
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- Posts: 25
- Joined: Oct 31st, '10, 12:19
- Location: Coldwater, Ontario, Canada
Thanks guys, it sounds like the new rudders will have to go on the TO DO LIST.
Already planned on a redo of the bottom and really appreciate your suggestions on how to do this. The two projects before she goes in the water in the spring are new gas tank and redo the bottom. I am sure I will probably add a few more but am hopeful to drive her for a season and then make decisions on the overhaul.
Harry
Already planned on a redo of the bottom and really appreciate your suggestions on how to do this. The two projects before she goes in the water in the spring are new gas tank and redo the bottom. I am sure I will probably add a few more but am hopeful to drive her for a season and then make decisions on the overhaul.
Harry
1969 - Hull #312-899
I listened 2 the exoerienced b31 people and purchased a pair of capt pats rudders, installed them with the locking collar secured above the new dripless stuffing boxes and secured again on top of the rudder shelf with the tiller arm { all attachmehts were secured by dimpleing the shaft so the set screw would keep the rudders from dropping down,} if I could do it over I would have the lathe man drill and tap the top of the rudder shaft when machining and install a top cap plate bolted into that thread, my rybovich is done like that, just added security at nominal cost I have hauled boats out that sunk when they lost a rudder, maybe gunshy
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