Raw fiberglas edge trim?

[IRGuy]

I am presently sanding "Phoenix" in preparation to painting her, and have decided I want to remove the original aluminum "J" shaped molding around the raw fiberglas edges (around the edges of the windshield overhang and window recesses for example) that is pop-riveted in place. There are a few breaks and missing pieces in the present molding, so I am not interested in salvaging it.

Do any of you have any suggestions for replacing it? I have found several plastic extrusion manufacturers who make edge trim in various "U" shaped profiles, which I believe I could glue in place, that would look better than metal edging which needs screws or pop-rivets, but I am concerned about how durable this might be on the exterior of a boat. This material is used as edging for automobile doors, for instance, and can be had with a chrome looking finish, or in black, which could be painted.

Stainless or aluminum are also options, but I think the absence of visible fastenings would look best.

Any and all comments would be appreciated.

[Carl]

Fiberglassing it, is my first thought.

[Thums Up]

You can get fiberglass strips from Mcmaster-carr, I would glue them to thinken your edge and then fill and sand to make a nice rounded edge and paint it!

[IRGuy]

Thanks guys.. actually while sanding today I took a break and looked closely at the edges in question.. I think they might be able to be sanded and painted if I carefully try to get some thin epoxy liquid to wick up into the small cracks that are present in a few places. I will have to fill the holes left by the pop rivets with thickened epoxy anyway.

If I try the epoxy and sanding technique and it doesn't look good after painting I can always add some type of off-the-shelf molding later I suppose.

[Carl]

Although I think your on the track I would take...I'd wait for someone to chime in...I'm not thinking epoxy over cracks is the best method for a lasting job.

[CaptPatrick]

Chime.......

The house top overlays the interior combing and is puttied in place & glassed via a flange hidden in the cabin overhead. While the entire joint is quite secure and strong, the resulting gap and seam is unattractive. Bertram used the shallow aluminum molding, (pop riveted in place), to hide the seam.

With the molding removed, cut a 1/4" deep "V" into the joint of the two parts. Clean out all dust and debris and prime with un-thickened epoxy. Allow it to cure to the point of being tacky and then trowel in thickened epoxy to fill the joint. Use a high density filler, (milled fiberglass or similar), with a enough Cabosil, (fumated silica), to keep it from drooping. Mix to the consistency to stiff peanut butter. A putty knife is the preferred trowel.

After curing, block the joint down with 80 grit paper and round over the sharp edges.

The key is making the grove big enough & clean enough to accept a larger amount of epoxy than would be possible with just the crack. The key to working the thickened epoxy is the epoxy priming...