weak transom
Moderators: CaptPatrick, mike ohlstein, Bruce
weak transom
I pulled my B28 last week and took a look at the bottom and such for the first time since I acquired it. Bottom seemed pretty clean, but I noticed that the transom appeared very weak to me. I've heard before that it is one of the weaker areas, but a gentle bump with the palm of my hand resulted in obviously deflection! Just kind of a hollow sound, not rock solid like the rest of the hull. I get the impression a decent mako thrashing off the stern could do some serious damage. I don't think its current integrity would even support a swim platform! Is this common, and I'm just overreacting? Any recommendations for improving the structural integrity back there? Here's a pic of the transom from inside. You can see the light through it in a few spots. Should that support my concerns? I have faith in the experience of this site and appreciate any feedback.
Thanks,
Matt
I realize the pic is poor quality but you get an idea of what I was talking about. I used a flash on the next pic, which makes it harder to see the lighter areas.
[/img]
Thanks,
Matt
I realize the pic is poor quality but you get an idea of what I was talking about. I used a flash on the next pic, which makes it harder to see the lighter areas.
[/img]
- scot
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I have no personal experience with the 28 transoms but I have noticed over the years that this seems to be a common with the 28's??
Based on reading many postings I believe that this is just the way they are....I've been wrong before, and may be again.
I guess your options are;
A. Live with it, or: B. Reinforce it, i.e. coring and more glass.
Call Bruce, he loves glass work.
Scot
Based on reading many postings I believe that this is just the way they are....I've been wrong before, and may be again.
I guess your options are;
A. Live with it, or: B. Reinforce it, i.e. coring and more glass.
Call Bruce, he loves glass work.
Scot
- Brewster Minton
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Mine is like that too. I would not be concerned if I were you. I said the same thing to my glass guy. His answer was an inboard boat does not need the thick transom like a outboard boat. Mine has platform, and when all points are secured, ie the braces, it is actually rather strong, but will still flex slightly. Never heard of one of these going down before for that reason.
I have a thin transom also. Next time you're poking around your engines on a sunny day take a look at the hull sides, they're translucent as well. The beauty of the Bertrams are that they knew where to put the glass.
When I put my swim platform on I glassed in four plywood backing plates. I was planning on tieing them into the stringers but I found that the 1ftx1ft pads added a considerable amount of stiffness. Once I bolted up the platform it was rock solid.
When I put my swim platform on I glassed in four plywood backing plates. I was planning on tieing them into the stringers but I found that the 1ftx1ft pads added a considerable amount of stiffness. Once I bolted up the platform it was rock solid.
Don't lend a hand to raise a flag aboard a ship of fools!
- In Memory of Vicroy
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On an inboard boat, even a lowly Hyena Boat, the transom has no stress, it's just a water dam to keep the waves out of the cockpit, so flimsy is OK. If you are going to hang a swim platform off it, beef it up, otherwise just forget it.
Now I will chime in too that your steering tie bar is something you need to address, and now. It looks like the original steel pipe one, and you should shoot it with CX a few times, then wait a week, then rub it down with a Scotch pad and get the rust off. Then either maintain it with regular CX use or replace it with stainless. Otherwise its gonna fail on you when you least can afford it.
UV
Now I will chime in too that your steering tie bar is something you need to address, and now. It looks like the original steel pipe one, and you should shoot it with CX a few times, then wait a week, then rub it down with a Scotch pad and get the rust off. Then either maintain it with regular CX use or replace it with stainless. Otherwise its gonna fail on you when you least can afford it.
UV
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Kevin, no, the Hyena Boat should remain "lowly". After all, this is a Bertram 31 site devoted to the Best Boat Ever Built. The B31 Faithful have been very graceful in welcoming the owners of lesser boats here, but there is a line we cannot cross. "Lowly" is just a word, but "Butt Ugly" better describes the Hyena Boats, so be thankful for small favors and just accept "lowly".
Yo Fren'
UV
Yo Fren'
UV
Although I understand the "hyena" reference, I am apparently too green to understand it's origin or basis. Perhaps someone could provide me with some insight on that one. That being said, thank you all for your input. It does put my mind at ease about the transom. In regards to the steering, I should have seen that one coming. I realize it's pretty sad. I'm doing the gas tank and steering this winter. I won't even post a pic of the port rudder shelf. It's not just embarassing, but scary. I plan on replacing both with the rudder shelf similar in style to that posted by Capt Pat on the building link. I plan on glassing it in between the outbd stringers and to the transom for a little added integrity back aft. This work needs to be done now, but I don't think oversized rudders are in the budget for this winter. Does anyone here foresee issues with replacing the steering components and rudder shelves with the old rudders and then updating the rudders at a later date?
Thanks again,
Matt
Thanks again,
Matt
- CaptPatrick
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Matt,
You're fine doing your remodeling and keeping the existing rudders. Mine are the same shaft dimensions and will fit your updates at any time down the road...
The hyena boat thing is an Uncle Vic Original and came from pokin' fun at Ernest. While UV truely doesn't like the look if the design, it's all in good Coonass fun. Ernest may even still have plans to paint a hyena on his transom.
Br,
Patrick
You're fine doing your remodeling and keeping the existing rudders. Mine are the same shaft dimensions and will fit your updates at any time down the road...
The hyena boat thing is an Uncle Vic Original and came from pokin' fun at Ernest. While UV truely doesn't like the look if the design, it's all in good Coonass fun. Ernest may even still have plans to paint a hyena on his transom.
Br,
Patrick
hehe. Thanks for the info Capt Patrick. It's good to know I can do one thing at a time. I do eventually plan on getting those rudders though. I recently had my first experience trying to run a straight course down the canal on one engine. It's not that difficult...it's impossible! What a circus! No doubt you'll be hearing from me down the road.
Thanks,
Matt
Thanks,
Matt
Yes the 28B's transom flexes. No reason for concern. When ever you hang something off the hull you should always use backing plates.
In response to my beloved UV. Bertram 31's look unique; almost everyone can spot a 31B. The 28B has a classic look more in keeping with traditional sportfishing boats. They do not look like a hyena dragg'in it's but IMO and my wife agrees. So that's the truth the whole truth and nothing but the truth. hehe
In response to my beloved UV. Bertram 31's look unique; almost everyone can spot a 31B. The 28B has a classic look more in keeping with traditional sportfishing boats. They do not look like a hyena dragg'in it's but IMO and my wife agrees. So that's the truth the whole truth and nothing but the truth. hehe
Matt-
I have a B31 with the rudders set-up like yours--the arms attach to the rudders under the shelf rather than on top of the shelf like most B31s (or most I've seen). I had to rebuild my rudder shelves before she could hit the water (they were completely rotted when I bought her 4+ years ago), and I bought Cap. Pat's rudders last year. The big rudders are just great.
If I were doing it over again, I'd do the steering, rudders, and shelf all at once, and change over to the the B31 on top of the shelf set-up. It just looks alot easier to get at everything for maintenance than the under the shelf set-up.
John F.
I have a B31 with the rudders set-up like yours--the arms attach to the rudders under the shelf rather than on top of the shelf like most B31s (or most I've seen). I had to rebuild my rudder shelves before she could hit the water (they were completely rotted when I bought her 4+ years ago), and I bought Cap. Pat's rudders last year. The big rudders are just great.
If I were doing it over again, I'd do the steering, rudders, and shelf all at once, and change over to the the B31 on top of the shelf set-up. It just looks alot easier to get at everything for maintenance than the under the shelf set-up.
John F.
- In Memory Walter K
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