Quick fuel line question

scooter28 · Post by **scooter28** » Jun 29th, '10, 22:22

I'm trying to install new ball valves and keep them within the blue tape square. Since thats the opening to my hatch and if they go outside the tape they wont fit under the floor. Anyways my question is should i use the same rubber fuel line that im plumbing the rest of the system with or would you recommend using copper like i tried already to use until i realized the valves wouldnt work in the location i originally had them. My reason for the copper was i've got plenty of it around and thought it might cut down on the number of barb fitting/hose clamps that i have to worry about. My biggest worryis looping the line around the way i've got the red lines going is almost 2ft. and im worried having the shutoffs that far away from the pickup. Any ideas or suggestions would be great thanks!

Rawleigh · Post by **Rawleigh** » Jun 30th, '10, 08:46

Why can't they be mated directly to the manifold with close pipe nipples? You can always put a block under them if you are worried about support. Or better yet, use bronze washers to shim between the valve and the manifold so that the shoulder of the valve sandwiches the washers firmly against the manifold. That way it will be like one solid assembly.

Skipper Dick · Post by **Skipper Dick** » Jun 30th, '10, 10:46

This is my fuel set up.

Dick

scenarioL113 · Post by **scenarioL113** » Jun 30th, '10, 22:45

Your can and probably should hard pipe your fuel shut-offs right to the fuel manifold.

Skipper dick shows a pair of nice and small shut-offs but the ones you have can be installed just the same.

Consider putting a 90 degree brass pipe elbow right at the manifold directing the flow in the basic direction you have already set it up so far.

Install the shut-off directly to the elbow. The second shutoff can,with a brass nipple, can be connected directly to the area of the hole on the manifold in the picture you shared with us.

It is always better to hard pipe elbows and have limited use of barb fittings if at all possible.

Eliminating barbs all together is the best but if you are to use bars and clamps use brand new clamps and limit there use like I stated above.

Good luck and fell free to ask any questions if you are not sure.

Bob H. · Post by **Bob H.** » Jul 1st, '10, 19:01

Scooter,

I used the parker marine pushlock hose and fittings, very easy to use, cut to length, good assortment of elbows and adapters. Makes nice gradual bends.
For main valve I used a moeller three way valve, both feed and return lines run through one valve, allowing you to choose main or saddle tank as well as off position. Cut down on on number of valves by 2/3. Using this system I made the valve very accesible.

Mike Moran · Post by **Mike Moran** » Jul 1st, '10, 19:48

very neat great job

coolair · Post by **coolair** » Jul 1st, '10, 21:20

Bob you really have done a beaustiful job. please remind me, you faired and awlgriped your bilge?

Harry Babb · Post by **Harry Babb** » Jul 1st, '10, 21:21

Beautiful......your quite a plumber

hb

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Jul 2nd, '10, 06:33

racors in the hole great idea were did you get that from!! oh boy another rocket ship in the makings . great job no barbs in fuel system with uscg approved hose. your bertram can even pass a coast guard inpection for" passenger carry or hire." incidently the racor in the hole had the same performance value as the strake alignment for the entire hull with struct fairing .fuel temperature should never exceed 70 degrees F. at fuel injection pump.

Bob H. · Post by **Bob H.** » Jul 2nd, '10, 13:29

Harry, took two or three attempts to get it just right...Matt, Yes I am nuts , I mean yes I did fair and awlgrip the bilge...Bob Lico Im adding all those extra knots youve gained me on this project...going to be a fun ride..You keep talking and I keep listening...rocket props next??BH

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Jul 2nd, '10, 19:44

oh boy NOT the rocket props . 30 knot cruise at 18-19 gph .i will give complete details to you and harry at greenport.

JP Dalik · Post by **JP Dalik** » Jul 2nd, '10, 21:36

Fished the Toms yesterday ran out at 16 kts. Came home at 18 kts. Boy I'm happy I got all this extra horsepower!?!

Best for the day was 25 kts at 2200 and 16 gph. Just need to get a tweaked set of wheels and the speed will come. When all the boats are done the speeds with the same wheels regardless of fuel set ups in approved installations will be within 2.5 kts.

My biggest consumer is the genset at .6 gallons per hour.

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Jul 2nd, '10, 22:37

JP if not the speed actually the same speed at a lower rpm. really looking to do 24 knots at a shade over 2000rpm. excellent fuel encom.i was not to far from you and then the wind was kicking up on the way home . ran back at 28kns with a less then happy face .i wired a 11' hammerhead shark with a inexperiane crew. never knew hammerhead jump out of the water!!!! we also release a 6' mako because the owner could not tailrope nor his partner lame attemp with harpoon. 6 sharks release i used fresh bluefish ,filet with backbone removed and sew up . hook and stinger hook
did the job.

scot · Post by **scot** » Jul 3rd, '10, 06:44

Really nice work Bob. The faired, awlgrip work is eye candy, but the best part is easy cleaning! That area will be very easy to clean and stay sharp for years.

I glassed and painted my last boat's bilge. Dirt gets down in the glass pattern and is a bear to scrub out and keep clean, stains as well. With the smooth finish you just wipe it right off. The ease of cleaning will make you glad you made the extra effort.

ianupton · Post by **ianupton** » Jul 17th, '10, 18:03

Follow-up question regarding the push lock fittings.

I thought fuel fittings needed to be clamped? This is far cleaner of an install.

Where did you buy the hose and fittings?

Part numbers?

Thanks!

Ian.

bertram31.com

Quick fuel line question

Quick fuel line question

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