Battery hold downs

ianupton · Post by **ianupton** » Jun 21st, '10, 17:42

I saw this on another site...

Thought would be pretty cool especially if they custom cut "BERTRAM" in like the jeep example.

http://www.artecwelding.com/

I'm inquiring about these with Bertram laser cut.

Ian.

In Memory of Vicroy · Post by **In Memory of Vicroy** » Jun 21st, '10, 18:01

Should pick up at least two knots......

yo Fren'

UV

ianupton · Post by **ianupton** » Jun 21st, '10, 18:50

Never considered that these would make me go faster!!!

I'm just done with the plastic boxes... short of a completely custom box like Capt Patrick has made, what do you guys recommend?

Ian.

scot · Post by **scot** » Jun 21st, '10, 19:35

Ian,

Have you used any of the "good" HD marine batt boxes, like a Todd or Moeller box? I just picked up 2 Todd boxes for 8D batts and they are pretty heavy duty units. They are expensive, like $90 bucks a box. I found 2 at a local boater's resale, paid $50 bucks for the pair.

BTW, thanks UV I spilled my ice tea.

Buju · Post by **Buju** » Jun 21st, '10, 20:07

CNC cut from 10ga. cold rolled steel...

Won't take too long before you got a big ol customized pile of oxidized iron.
Maybe just talk to your local machine shop, and have em make you one out of 6061 or the likes... Or really go nuts with stainless.

Mikey · Post by **Mikey** » Jun 22nd, '10, 08:17

Don't believe sealed batteries require a box, they're smaller and lighter too.
No box - less weight = two knots.

JeremyD · Post by **JeremyD** » Jun 22nd, '10, 09:18

I figured the CF was worth a few extra knots (actually I made this for the car, same principles apply)

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Jun 22nd, '10, 09:37

Mikey wrote:Don't believe sealed batteries require a box.

One very important aspect of a box, or at least a full top enclosure, is to keep the terminals from being exposed. Drop a wrench or other metal tool/item onto the positive terminal and you may get my drift...

Rawleigh · Post by **Rawleigh** » Jun 22nd, '10, 09:59

I used the existing fiberglass box between the engines for my smaller sealed batteries. I made battery hold downs from aluminum angle with the ends cut and bent 90 degrees to form a tab and bolted it to the sides of the box. Simple and cheap.

scooter28 · Post by **scooter28** » Jun 22nd, '10, 15:40

Get me an image and i'd be glad to make some with the bertram logo outta 6061 for ya.

Bruce · Post by **Bruce** » Jun 22nd, '10, 18:16

Plastic boxes are easy and cheap unless your making your battery terminals the connection point for your wires. If all you have is the ground and pos cable comming out, it can't be much easier than that.

If the battery posts are the landing point for your wiring, then a couple of buss bars will change that and keep the wires from corroding at the same time.

Like Pat said, the exposed posts are what needs to be covered.

Mikey · Post by **Mikey** » Jun 22nd, '10, 19:22

Good point Patrick. Have terminal covers as a result of a courtesy inspection by the authorities. Also have nothing connected directly to the batteries except the terminals. All other connections are made remotely as pointed out by brother Bruce.
Keep'em safe! I tickles the insurance bookies.

Ken Hudson · Post by **Ken Hudson** » Jun 22nd, '10, 19:32

A lot of people may think that they have 'sealed batteries' because the caps fit well into the casing. If you can pry the caps out of a 'sealed' battery you will often find that the elctrolyte level is low. Battery Tenders do a good job (esp. in storage) but any lead/acid battery that I have ever seen requires maintenance.

A great product for all connections, esp. battery, alt., starter is a colloidal copper product made by Thomas & Betts...there are several. Copper Shield is one.

bertram31.com

Battery hold downs

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