Engine Room paint job before/after PICS

amuh60 · Post by **amuh60** » Mar 10th, '10, 21:13

After a few days of downtime from work I was able to clean and paint the engine room.

Whaler1777 · Post by **Whaler1777** » Mar 10th, '10, 21:28

Lookin sharp!

JohnD · Post by **JohnD** » Mar 10th, '10, 22:18

Looks good, what's for dinner?

I painted mine white and 3yrs later, kind of regret it as it really shows the dirty spots. A good cleaning and touch up is definately on the spring to-do list.

br,
JohnD

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Mar 10th, '10, 22:36

Andy

Looks good. What did you use?

scot · Post by **scot** » Mar 10th, '10, 22:46

It looks great. Considering you did this with EVERYTHING in place you get an A+.

BTW, what type paint did you use? I'm trying to decide on a paint & color for engine bay.

Buju · Post by **Buju** » Mar 11th, '10, 05:43

Looks good Andy.

Scot, consider the Intlx. Bilgekote...

scot · Post by **scot** » Mar 11th, '10, 09:25

I tried the Bilgekote once and it was really thin and ran badly? Could have been a bad batch, I could not get any build up at all, 2 coats and you could still see through it? Maybe I was doing something wrong.
(would not be the first time).

I have been considering an industrial immersion rated epoxy.

Tommy · Post by **Tommy** » Mar 11th, '10, 10:51

Nothing like some good Bertram "before and after" photos to lift ones spitits...........

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Mar 11th, '10, 13:02

Tommy wrote:Nothing like some good Bertram "before and after" photos to lift ones spitits...........

'Cept that it's a HatterAss...

Nice job, Andy.

John F. · Post by **John F.** » Mar 11th, '10, 14:13

Ex-Banhsee never had it so good. Looks great.

Rawleigh · Post by **Rawleigh** » Mar 11th, '10, 14:17

I don't like Bilgekote. It peeled up in my bilge. I painted my engine compartment with POR15 Hardnose White 2 part paint and it looks great! It is like it a slick plastic coat that cleans up unbelievably well. It brush paints well, but it will kill braincells if you don't wear a respirator.

http://www.por15.com/WHITECOTE/productinfo/WCG/

amuh60 · Post by **amuh60** » Mar 11th, '10, 16:15

I used the Bilgekote. Main reason was for doing the job with everything in place and my experience level. I scrubbed and cleaned everything with soap and then scraped/sanded and got as much old paint off as possible. Then vacumed and wiped everything down with acetone. Based on time and clutter I could never get all the old 1 part enamel paint off. My understanding is you can not paint over enamel with epoxy paint(adhesion issue). For that reason I went back with 2 coats of bilgekote. It took 1 gallon and a paint brush. I can work hard and want quit but do not have any experience with using epoxy paint. I am going to paint the lazerette with Rustoleum 9100series epoxy and see how that comes out.

-ANDY

John F. · Post by **John F.** » Mar 11th, '10, 16:58

Andy-

I've had good luck with Bilgekote. Its lasted and hasn't peeled, although its only been a few years. I tried BilgeKote because I had used the Rustoleam 2-part stuff a couple of years before, and that peeled in a couple of areas. Easily could've been my fault with prep., but long and short is that I've had much better luck with BilgeKote.

John

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Mar 11th, '10, 17:28

My understanding is you can not paint over enamel with epoxy paint(adhesion issue).

Here's the break down on most paints, varnishes and epoxies:

Paints are solvent based, and yes, water is a solvent, just a mild one...

Paints with volatile solvents, (just about all solvents except water), may or may not be compatible over an old painted surface. If the old paint is a one part, (no catalyst or converter needed to cure), just about any new one part paint can be used over the old. That's about 98% true, so test out any new paint over the old before going whole hog.

What any old single part paint will not be compatible with is any new 2 part paint that requires either a catalyst or converter. The catalyst or converter is usually too hot and will destroy the old one part paint, with the exception of a water based old paint.

Epoxies, on the other hand are not solvent based and the hardener is amine. Amines don't react with cured solvent based paints and epoxy will readily adhere to all old paints as long as the painted surface is properly cleaned and scuffed up with sandpaper, (80 - 220 grit dry).

Adhesion, for any new paint or epoxy over old paint or epoxy is not so much the adhesion of the two, but how well the old paint or epoxy is adhering to the substraight.

So, it's OK to paint most one part paints over old one part paint. It's OK to apply epoxy over old paints of any variety. It's not OK to paint a two part catalyzed paint over a one part old paint. If a two part catalyzed paint is to be used successfully over an old one part paint, an epoxy barrier must be applied between the two paints.

Epoxies, when cured, usually produce an amine blush on the surface. Amine blush is the result of incomplete cross linking between the epoxy and the amine hardener. This can happen with inadequate mixing or excess hardener in the mixing ratio. Either way, before painting over a new epoxy surface, the amine blush must be removed completely.

Fortunately, amine is water soluble and the blush can be removed by scrubbing with soap and water, followed by a fresh water rinse and light scuffing after the surface is dry. Amine will act just like a mold release agent if not removed.

As far as varnish is concerned, clear coating with a linear polyurethane like Awlgrip is a fairly common practice, especially for teak transoms. The key to not destroying a beautiful varnish job is to apply two thin, but complete, coats of clear epoxy over the varnish. Then remove any amine blush and apply the PL clear.

In the end, 95% of adhesion problems can be traced back to inadequate or improper prep....

In Memory Walter K · Post by **In Memory Walter K** » Mar 11th, '10, 17:57

Forgive my ignorance-PL clear?

Mike Moran · Post by **Mike Moran** » Mar 11th, '10, 18:00

thank you Capt. Pat

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Mar 11th, '10, 19:22

LP clear -- clear coating with a linear polyurethane

Buju · Post by **Buju** » Mar 11th, '10, 21:48

Great rundown of it all Capt. Pat...
The only thing I would like to add is for folks to be careful with what is labeled "epoxy".
Many paint manufacturers are mistakenly labeling multi-component paints (2-part) as "epoxies"... the vast majority of these products are not epoxies at all, but rather aliphatic urethanes, acrylic mod. urethanes, or other urethanes...
Petit even has a 1 component polyurethane marketed as "Easypoxy"... very misleading to many.
No doubt the reasoning is to put EPOXY on the can to get the customers attention and seal the deal.

wmachovina · Post by **wmachovina** » Mar 11th, '10, 22:03

Just painted Seacheles engine comparment w a water based 3 part awlgrip. Dried much better than bilgecoat and seems pretty tough. Time will tell. not fumy(I lived while applying) and easy to work with

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Mar 11th, '10, 22:25

Good point Mark... You're right about Petit's name game. I've used both their Polypoxy, (2 part mix), and Easypoxy, (single part), and neither have much similarity to true epoxy... The Polypoxy white will yellow under UV conditions just like real epoxy though.

Bill, what Awlgrip product was it that you used?

bertram31.com

Engine Room paint job before/after PICS

Engine Room paint job before/after PICS

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