spenting the next 3 months reinventing the wheel

[Carl]

RG Rollins Co. 253.588.9978. Ask for Harry.
They are on the West Coast, so call mid afternoon.


Bob,
I think the best way is to do what Rocky said, call'em and let them walk you threw it. You don't want to insert unit back into your Pod only to remove at a later date.

If you prefer you can send helm to me and I'll call and go over it with them.

You also have the option of sending to them directly.

Or we can arrange for me to come out to you, get them on the horn and we can go over together.

You got options, lets get it done right.



Interesting set of instructions you got there Bob...No wonder people are having issues.

I'm kind of used to it working with my father, he tends to leave out the details...just starts and stops in the middle and leaves out the rest.

[John F.]

Amazing work guys. There a professional manual writers out there, and alot that aren't so good.

[bob lico]

sim, rocky the helm was install the day after i ground the cam , how do you think i definitly knew i had wot.i tested all positions forward and reverse and everything seems to be ok in the shifting department (transmission lever goes to forward and reverse) but the question of timing got my attention because starboard gear rod is .140 the port is at least double but both shift the same and both pull wot.

[Carl]

Bob, I think we are guessing here...I know I am.

But...I think what RG is saying, When in Neutral, the two gear racks should stick out evenly from the bottom of the control. The protrusion of these racks should be .135 .

If you have something different we need to go to the next step.




Let me ask something different...both controls shift and you get WOT, I got that...but are they shifting at your lowest idle? You need to check this in both forward and reverse. I'd bet dollars to doughnuts that is what the rack calibration does.

Let me know, if not maybe some pictures and I'll give RG a call to verify the steps to calibrate before you take anything apart.

[bob lico]

carl i will need two people to find out if port side is shifting at lowest idle.one at helm the other at gears/throttle lever.tommorow looks good.

[JP Dalik]

Is the rack adjustable so that you can attain full throttle but not full reverse? This would leave an adjustment that benefits different length throttle linkages while keeping in mind boats can't achieve full rpms in reverse due to hull drag and prop design. Except Bobs of course!!! LOL

[bob lico]

jp due to the one design .the helm can be starboard or upside be port. that being said cam is equal in desigh therefore in theory only boat can go wot engine wise in forward or reverse. that does not mean you would go more than 10knots in reverse without sinking the boat but the helm does not no that!don`t forget zf irm 220 is same ratio forward or reverse.i hope i finally explain this problem.

[Rocky]

I'm thinking one "tooth" on the gear makes a large difference in calibration we just need to be certain the procedure. I had an emergency room visit today with our newborn so I could not make that call, will do so tomorrow to Harry unless you think that's too many "hands in the pot".

[Carl]

Rocky...everything okay with the baby? ER's not a fun place to be.

Thinking the same here...a tooth off.

[Rocky]

Yes and thanks Carl, she's O.K., just a crying spell we could not understand why coupled with an overly protective mother! Digestive tracs are not developed yet we were told so they let some gas go and then let us go.
So I called RG and spoke with Bret, again as you said VERY willing to help and he agrees to send the unit to them would be the best. He also said when he saw original pictures of Bobs control the cable housing was on the wrong side of the black Z-shaped bracket- very important for total throw of unit. Also the FIRST two holes of this bracket the cable housing must be in, and if not you can loose up to an inch of travel. Having the calibration off one or so teeth will not effect total throw. Again, very willing to help, no chargr to set up unit just shipping and yes they do insist it deliver 2 1/2" throw when properly set up.

[Carl]

I ditto that, send it to RG and let them verify the whole nine yards. Then just install and be done with it.

Pretty good people to deal with at RG, I do not find that as often and find myself taken back a little.

[bob lico]

rocky i basicly used that z bracket as a 1/8" shim i sorry if i threw you guys off course ,i could have just used a piece of alluminum to shim the gear cable to perfect allighment with gear lever.
i am interested in your findings as to timing bar. one notch is about .135 and the starboard is at that setting the port is showing two teeth or notches they both seem to shift the same. what are my options?

[Rocky]

Hi Bob, Bret was insistent on the cable housing end be in the correct position on that Z-bracket. He said that would hinder the total throw much more than being a tooth or two off on the gear, though I did not have enough time at work to fully get into what exactly calibration does, he does not believe that to create a throw problem as much as that cable housing end must be on the first two holes of bracket closest to cam. I just can't help to think there is something they would see if they had that control in there hot little hands! He's just that insistent the unit will produce the 2 1/2", enough to tell me mail it to him and it will when he's done with it. That way, from the control to the pump will be a nice clean uninterupted install like it should. I'm beggin ya, please! :)

[bob lico]

rocky i am 100% pleased right now . the helms are installed completed all the wiring that had to move is back and i have 25/8" throw ; perfect from the cable pushing against the idle stop to maximum wot . i am not going to remove and pay ups for them to take apart and examine and my luck the ups will drop it a couple of times -forget it i am finish!!! lets move on. as you know i reinvented the wheel about 4 times on the boat we can discuss those features if you like. maybe a knew post on steering totally uncoventional to a 31 bertram.

[Carl]

Bob, as I see it, your options are:

You can remove control from Pod again, tinker around with it and one way or another we will eventually get the control working as it should. Maybe we'll get it right on this 2nd try, or maybe after a few more trial and errors.

Or

You can remove the Controls, pack them up nicely, insure to cover and ship via UPS to RG Rollins. RG will go over the unit and make sure it works correctly to specifications or they will fix, modify or whatever needs to be done to assure it is working perfectly then have it returned to you. All you pay is shipping. When you get it back just slip back into Pod and be done with it.

Bob, why reinvent the wheel when the Wheel-maker makes perfectly good wheels? If you where after something better, I'd agree with you... but you just want the unit to work as it should, 2-1/2" of throw for WOT, shift at the proper place, the lowest idle...nothing more. Save your time and energy for something else and send both controls to them.

If they do find something wrong, maybe it will be the fix for everyone.

I'll still be available to help if you decide not to go that route...but really sending it back is the best solution in my opinion.


I feel multiple persuasive e-mails in your future if you don't get moving on this...the season is coming up soon and I want my ride on a perfectly shifting boat...one that hits WOT and docks without jarring...so you don't spill my drink.

Carl

[Rocky]

Exaaaaaactly Carl, and would most likely benefit others at least from the standpoint of knowing the control is as designed.