Hynautic Steering line and pressure valve replacement

[John F.]

I'm going to replace the copper lines and all the fittings in my '69 FBC steering, including the aluminum pressure relief valve thing. From reading here, it looks like the best way to go is the hynautic or seastar 3/8" steering tubing (nylon or whatever--not copper), with their fittings. Any advice? I read an old post by UV that made it sound pretty easy.

The aluminum pressure valve comes in a 500 psi version and a 900 psi version. Any idea on which I should get?

Thanks-

John F.

[In Memory of Vicroy]

John - I've done several installs of SeaStar using their 3/8" nylon tubing and off-the-shelf brass compression fittings with zero issues. Simple like tinker toys. I chafe guarded the tubing where it rubbed on stuff by slitting some rubber heater hose, putting it over the tubing, and securing with wire ties.

UV

[Carl]

I have the Hynautic System in my boat, works very well and re-did the whole nine yards when I installed the Tower and Auto-Pilot. Not all that difficult to install and set up, worst part was bleeding the system.

That said...I helped Sr convert his ol'Hatteras from the manual Push/Pull Cable to the Sea-Star unit. Less money and Much Easier, less parts to break and have issues with. From what I can tell it works very well too. If starting from scratch I'd most likely go that route.

[White Bear]

Changed out the Hynautic copper lines in my boat about eight years ago using the nylon replacement tubing and the connections you make up on site. An easy job and sort of fun once you get into it. Bleeding was just as easy and the system holds pressure from year to year without any air infusion necessary. When all was done I wondered why I had bothered since the copper was in good condition except for some surface corrosion which made it look less than neat. The nylon tubing should last forever!

[John F.]

Thanks. Changing the lines out sounds like it'll be OK. I need to--the lines and fittings are all frozen and can't be tightened. I hit one when I was doing the tank, and had to fix the leak that developed at the fitting with JB weld. It held for the season, but now its gotta' go. Any info. on the aluminum valve? 900 or 500 psi?

[Carl]

Sorry, I missed the "I'm just changing the lines" part and read into the question.

Plastic lines are not rated for the 900psi valve, use the 500psi...more then adequate.

It's a good time to change the Guage on the Reserve too...or at least take a good look at it as they are steel, mine rotted away after several years. Think they run a big $20 or so.

As far as advice...
-make sure everything is clean before your install.
-when you cut the lines, make sure your ends are clean, no stragglers, loose burs or dingleberries should be hanging on or in the ends.
-tighten the fittings correctly "before pressurizing"
-did I mention, make sure everything is clean.

[In Memory of Vicroy]

A very sharp knife works best for cutting the 3/8" nylon tubing. I tried a tubing cutter and the stuff deforms when you screw the wheel down. Don't use a saw, leaves too much debris. And use the copper compression rings, not plastic ones, and get some spares - they are good for one shot usually. A tubing wrench is worth the minor investment too.

UV