teak& holly cabin sole

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Jul 22nd, '09, 07:38

capt. patrick ,buju i cut out all the teak and holly floor boards .i will attach to 3/4" coosa board that has been coated on both sides with expoxy/cabosil then i will put a even layer of thicken expoxy and clamp coosa to 1/4" teak & holly plywood .do you think you would use any other type of adhesive?next question for the finish on the t&h sole do you dulute the first coat of expoxy ? i intend do go with a few coats of rapid coat clear then two finish coats of rubbed effect varnish. i will try to spray the rapid coat never did that before.

Raybo Marine NY · Post by **Raybo Marine NY** » Jul 22nd, '09, 08:20

Have you considered something like this?

http://www.lonsealspecialty.com/lonwdteakholly.html

I like natural, real wood, but you will be a slave to that teak and holly ply and want to slit your wrists if it gets damaged.

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Jul 22nd, '09, 08:38

nice product robbie as usual you always come up with a great UNKNOWN manufact. even people in the" know " never seen those ss scuppers you got me .however i purchase the coosa board and teak & holly plywood allready .they are cut out to match existing floorboards. the coosa board was covered on all sides with expoxy. today i will most likely make thicken expoxy (cabasil & high density filler) and laminate plywood to coosa unless you have a better idea.

Raybo Marine NY · Post by **Raybo Marine NY** » Jul 22nd, '09, 08:46

the last teak and holly sole we did was a bitch to do, lining up the lines in the wood so the floor appears as one piece consumes alot of time and material. Smaller soles like the 31 has are much simpler so I suppose worse case is years from now you put a whole new piece in.

The last sole I put in I did much like a house, that deck was NOWHERE near true, it used to have carpet and was very ugly. I used that foam like product they use for houses, and glued the ply down with liquid nails, put weights on the floor until it dried. My thought was the foam and the liquid nails would allow the floor to creak and moan with the boat. 3 years so far so good

on a nice straight true, new surface such as yours I think your idea will work well.

CaptPatrick · Post by **CaptPatrick** » Jul 22nd, '09, 08:51

You got it right for your bonding of the wood and Coosa. Don't use a lot of clamping pressure, epoxy likes a little thickness. Too much clamping pressure will squeeze out too much material.

The first coat of epoxy over the wood needs to be thinned. About 10% - 15%, depending on the viscosity of your mixed epoxy. Mix first and then thin with denatured alcohol to a viscosity similar to that of half & half cream. Put you next full unthinned epoxy layer down after the sealer coat has tacked up.

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Jul 22nd, '09, 08:59

as usual capt. patrick your there when we are in a pinch. robby i was thinking the same thing pl or liquid nail thats why i mention it . i have pl holding the azak battery boxes (before i went to bond and fill) together and still perfect . i will go with the expoxy due to the fact i prime with expoxy already.thank for the input.

gplume · Post by **gplume** » Jul 22nd, '09, 20:54

Bob-

Please take some pix along the way....this one is on next years "to do" list.

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Jul 26th, '09, 08:32

gif here are the floor boards after a coat of expoxy with special hardener.i use old floorboards as template but will be 1/2" smaller in lenth and width to accomodate a 1/4" border of epi . this will tale place of antiquated metal edging and the epi is as hard as a rock.i use a router with a guide to true up edges for epi border.

John F. · Post by **John F.** » Jul 26th, '09, 11:39

Bob-

I was going to edge with mahogany, and didn't. The floor/hatches have been fine. Just an idea.

John F.

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Jul 26th, '09, 13:23

looks great john, i choose to use epi because it is real hard and can take abuse of removing floorboard to add water but in reality mohogany it just as good . i see you eliminated cheap alluminum strip looks a million times better.look at any knew quality boat absolutly no alluminum trim in cabin.

ZeroCavity · Post by **ZeroCavity** » Jul 27th, '09, 14:52

Lonseal Teak and Holly as mentioned by Raybo Marine NY

bob lico · Post by **bob lico** » Jul 27th, '09, 16:24

zero cavity i should think the main differance is the lonseal is not prone to scratches as the t&h wood with varnish.beach sand from children will destroy vanish real quick something i have to face in the future.

ZeroCavity · Post by **ZeroCavity** » Jul 27th, '09, 21:32

Bob Lico, that is why I went with the loneseal. My kids go inside wet with sand, drop things etc. Bottom line is the real thing is great but loneseal looks good and NO MAINTENANCE.

IRGuy · Post by **IRGuy** » Jul 28th, '09, 10:39

Zero Cavity...

Can you please tell me what the details are on the hatch lifting concept you have? Also, is there some kind of border that surrounds the openings in the sole that the hatches drop into?

Thanks..

Frank B

ZeroCavity · Post by **ZeroCavity** » Jul 28th, '09, 11:00

Cabrera's floor kit.

http://www.cabrerayachts.com/bertram_31 ... e_slow.htm

IRGuy · Post by **IRGuy** » Jul 28th, '09, 14:25

Thank you! It looks great!

bertram31.com

teak& holly cabin sole

teak& holly cabin sole

Who is online