Rudder Shelf????
Moderators: CaptPatrick, mike ohlstein, Bruce
Rudder Shelf????
Just wondering if the warping is an issue? Is the shelf providing support? Any thoughts..
Thanks,
Andy
Thanks,
Andy
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- CaptPatrick
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Andy,
It's on it's last leg at best... You may get another 50 hours out of it, but you're running on fumes. Whole thing needs to be ripped out and redone properly. Take it easy and keep an eye on it. Try to make hard turns only at slow speed & steer with your throttles as much as possible.
Might want to clamp a couple of pieces of heavy angle iron, top and bottom, with welding clamps...
Good luck!
Br,
Patrick
It's on it's last leg at best... You may get another 50 hours out of it, but you're running on fumes. Whole thing needs to be ripped out and redone properly. Take it easy and keep an eye on it. Try to make hard turns only at slow speed & steer with your throttles as much as possible.
Might want to clamp a couple of pieces of heavy angle iron, top and bottom, with welding clamps...
Good luck!
Br,
Patrick
- In Memory Walter K
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andy it is just like taking small arms fire from the locals you are going to have to take evasive measures now! that clamp on the ball joint is also looking for a accident to happen . losing your steering at cruise is like the rotor getting shot up. serious problem needs to be looked at now.
capt.bob lico
bero13010473
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Well, Andy, that image dosen't look as horrible as the first one.... I think you'll be fine for your trip, but it certainly needs updating and and attention once you're at home port. Put it high on the "to do" list.
The warpage/cracking is simply what unprotected plywood does after it's lived in loaded and wet environment...
Keep in mind that the rudder shelf is subject to high latteral loading, not compressive loading. The high vertical ends, stacked on top of the outboard stringers and just lapped by the horizontal shelf makes for a pretty wobbly configuration. There at least needs to be some serious webbing under those corners.
Is this a B31? Certainly isn't OEM rudder ports and dead rise mounting...
The warpage/cracking is simply what unprotected plywood does after it's lived in loaded and wet environment...
Keep in mind that the rudder shelf is subject to high latteral loading, not compressive loading. The high vertical ends, stacked on top of the outboard stringers and just lapped by the horizontal shelf makes for a pretty wobbly configuration. There at least needs to be some serious webbing under those corners.
Is this a B31? Certainly isn't OEM rudder ports and dead rise mounting...
No soft spots! The starboard side shows just a little but not that bad. Bob- that does not sound good so I guess I need to postpone my trip to get this fixed. This is one of the few chances with work that I will be able to cut loose and get the boat to Jacksonville. Then after that I could make the hop to stuart then ft myers in a weekend and then clearwater, fl to alabama in another weekend. This is one of my few three day weekends to make it down to jacksonville. Well I guess I should quit crying in my beer.
starboard side
starboard side
andy does the steering have alot of "play" in the steering wheel ? i just want to make sure the former owner did not do a rube goldberg job on the steering arm by putting a hoseclamp over the ball sockett to prevent the ball from popping out do to wear in the joint. the hoseclamp may also be the way the former owner held the rudder indicator in place for (auto pilot) referance. if this is so the problem can be fix when you get back.
capt.bob lico
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Andy,
When you get around to it, here's a configuration that would give maximum strength without reinventing too much. The shelf itself should, if possible extend all the way from port to starboard. All main elements, (vertical and horizontal), double thickness laminated, with a layer of glass in between. 1 1/2" minimum thickness.
If done in plywood, everything should be epoxy glass encased. If done in Coosa Board, outer face surfaces should have a layer of 3/16" glass and can be done with polyester or vinylester. Edges can be just faired for Coosa Board. Glass tab all joints, regardless of material. Four angle supports on each side, (port and starboard), to counter and spread your lateral loading. Lowering the shelf, if possible, will also strengthen the structure.
When you get around to it, here's a configuration that would give maximum strength without reinventing too much. The shelf itself should, if possible extend all the way from port to starboard. All main elements, (vertical and horizontal), double thickness laminated, with a layer of glass in between. 1 1/2" minimum thickness.
If done in plywood, everything should be epoxy glass encased. If done in Coosa Board, outer face surfaces should have a layer of 3/16" glass and can be done with polyester or vinylester. Edges can be just faired for Coosa Board. Glass tab all joints, regardless of material. Four angle supports on each side, (port and starboard), to counter and spread your lateral loading. Lowering the shelf, if possible, will also strengthen the structure.
- Pete Fallon
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Andy,
I suggest you replace the packing on both rudder ports before you even make the run to Jacksonville, they have been leaking so some time, you can redo the rudder shelves when you get it back. What's the story with the white caulking compound at the transom/hull side area in one of the pictures?.
I suggest you replace the packing on both rudder ports before you even make the run to Jacksonville, they have been leaking so some time, you can redo the rudder shelves when you get it back. What's the story with the white caulking compound at the transom/hull side area in one of the pictures?.
- Pete Fallon
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Andy,
I would repack both rudder ports before you make the trip back to Jacksonville, they look like they have been leaking for a long time, you can redo the shelves when you get it home. What's up with the white caulking compound at the transom hullside joint in one of the pictures?. There appears to be a lot of corrosion on the copper pipe with the cable ties and I saw a rusted area on the engine/tranny area in the turbo picture in your other post. Did you have the boat closely surveyed?
I would repack both rudder ports before you make the trip back to Jacksonville, they look like they have been leaking for a long time, you can redo the shelves when you get it home. What's up with the white caulking compound at the transom hullside joint in one of the pictures?. There appears to be a lot of corrosion on the copper pipe with the cable ties and I saw a rusted area on the engine/tranny area in the turbo picture in your other post. Did you have the boat closely surveyed?
Pete- The boat is 40 years old and not perfect but has had a lot of upgrades to include all mechanical systems in the past 7-8 years some newer. I am going to have to get the cleaning supplies out and put some elbow grease into the bilge/engine compartments. The deck was replaced and may be where the caulking has come from. The rudders were not leaking any water for the 4 hours I was on the boat. I am going to take it real easy heading south utilizing the inside and close to the beach throughout the trip with continuous monitoring of systems. Yes the boat has been surveyed and insured. Raleigh- there is definitely room to work and put that reinforcement on the shelf.
Thanks again for all the advice and help. If you see a 36 hatteras named Miss Caroline headed south down the east coast over the weekend give me a call on 16.
Thanks again for all the advice and help. If you see a 36 hatteras named Miss Caroline headed south down the east coast over the weekend give me a call on 16.
Andy,
Rawleigh and I are across the river from you in Lancaster. Both of us have faced this issue. Maybe we can be of help. Give me a call. 438-5543.
Rawleigh and I are across the river from you in Lancaster. Both of us have faced this issue. Maybe we can be of help. Give me a call. 438-5543.
Mikey
3/18/1963 - -31-327 factory hardtop express, the only one left.
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits.
-Albert Einstein
3/18/1963 - -31-327 factory hardtop express, the only one left.
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits.
-Albert Einstein
Mikey- I really appreciate the offer. I am having a guy look at it in The morning to see if we need to reinforce for trip. It has been like this for some time and definitely needs to be fixed. I am getting a good indication that it will make the trip but will definitely keep a close eye on it. Probably will reinforce with board and bolts. I spent last friday night at the Tides Inn thanks to a military discount and then went and sea trialed the boat out of a creek in North Mathews. Yall have a beautiful area up there and the people are great. If I run into trouble and get stuck for longer I might be in touch.
Thanks again,
ANDY
Thanks again,
ANDY
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Andy,
Wish I had known. I live a mile from The Inn and was cocktail cruizin the creek Friday. Could have come by and offered my advise and a clear. Not necessarily in that order.
Next time.
Wish I had known. I live a mile from The Inn and was cocktail cruizin the creek Friday. Could have come by and offered my advise and a clear. Not necessarily in that order.
Next time.
Mikey
3/18/1963 - -31-327 factory hardtop express, the only one left.
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits.
-Albert Einstein
3/18/1963 - -31-327 factory hardtop express, the only one left.
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits.
-Albert Einstein
Yes sir, I hate I missed that oppurtunity. The boat was pulled out today at Deltaville Marina and bottom cleaned now back in the water. They are cleaning the eng/xsm coolers and servicing the oil, filters and changing belts. Also, I have someone looking at the rudder shelf. If all checks ok she is headed to Va Beach where I will be driving into from Alabama on Thursday night to start the run south on Friday Morning. Once again that area is beautiful and the people are nice like us southern folks! LOL
Thanks,
ANDY
Thanks,
ANDY
Mikey: I should be in the slings tonight and back in first thing tomorrow. The guy who worked with me had 20 hours on it as of last night. I had three more days on it before he came to work. Probably at least 48 man hours total. I got all underwater metal ground clean, primed with one coat of etching primer and two coats of tier coat primer, two coats of Pettit Ultima SR60 on the bottom and running gear, and got the hull below the gunnel buffed. I'm over working on it and want to go for a boat ride!! unfortunately i need to go to the gas dock Friday afternoon for a that nonethanol gas.
Rawleigh
1966 FBC 31
1966 FBC 31
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