How do you keep the steering system original?

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redcat20
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Joined: Oct 18th, '06, 16:49

How do you keep the steering system original?

Post by redcat20 »

Steering cable in my 1970 24' Baron was binding alittle so took it out for replacement.
Marina says they don't make that version of the Morse cable any more - likely 40 years old.
Took the wheel and steering box out, as well as the cable. Really want to keep it as original as possible.
Don't suppose anyone knows where there's a low use 16' Morse cable around?
Guessing not, how have people married the old equipment, maybe just the steering wheel and shaft to new streering boxes and cables?
Could use some quick input, as the box, wheel and cable are out and this is the only issue in the way of the boat going into the water.
Experiences?
Redcat20
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Buju
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Post by Buju »

I'd say quit being sentimental about the old setup and ditch it, save your Bertram wheel and toss the helm unit and cable in the can. Get a new Teleflex NFB helm and 16'cable, it's inexpensive and you'll be done with it in one afternoon, with your orig. wheel on top - not detracting from the orig. look at all.

And if you're used to cable steering, the NFB will be a nice improvement over the old setup as well.
I don't know what the world may want,
But a good stiff drink it surely dont,
Think I'll go and fix myself...a tall one.
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Bruce
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Post by Bruce »

Some of the Morse cables when turned out of the head then can be pulled from the rudder rod end out. The part into the head is a spiral wire.(PICS OF THE ASSY WOULD HELP)

Once pulled out, it can be cleaned. Then straighten out the outer cable housing and use the appropriate caliber bronze brush from a rifle and tie some 1/8 nylon line to either end. Feed one end thru the cable housing and work it back and forth using CX to clean out the old grease.

Then flush with a water soluble cleaner then with fresh water. Blow out with air then put in the sun to dry.

Relube the inner cable with a non hardening type of grease(not lubriplate or white litium) grease and assemble.

Keeping it original is the same as redoing a car and keeping it original. Nothing wrong with that.
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Mikey
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Post by Mikey »

Red cat;
I wanted to keep the original wheel as well. It was a major pain in the butt, but only because I wasn't sure how it was assembled. I pulled all old stuff out and trashed all but the wheel. I bought Seastar (great choice, lot's of encouragement from the Faithful) and glad I did. The original wheel didn't work with the Seastar as it had a brass shaft protruding from the back. Getting that out was the worst part. It actually screws into the wheel and has a barrel pin to set it. Drilled out the pin (use hardened bits or your screwed) and put the brass shaft in a big vise and turned. Then, since the wheel's threads and the Seastar threads were quite different, Rawleigh found that an adapter available from McMaster-Carr was perfect. Fitted it and drilled and threaded a set screw and all is good.
Image
Mikey
3/18/1963 - -31-327 factory hardtop express, the only one left.
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits.
-Albert Einstein
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Bruce
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Post by Bruce »

Mikey,
Pats got one of those wheels at the shop. Its got one hell of a resonace to it.
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In Memory Walter K
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Post by In Memory Walter K »

That's what I have on the lower station on my Sportsfisherman. How did you shine it up like that?
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Mikey
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Post by Mikey »

Bruce,
Resonace??
Walt,
Big buffing wheel, time and patience.
Mikey
3/18/1963 - -31-327 factory hardtop express, the only one left.
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits.
-Albert Einstein
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