New Fuel (gas) tank
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New Fuel (gas) tank
We're getting ready to order tanks (Jimmy B. and myself--another Chesapeake Bay B31). FB tanks are coming in at just about 2X the cost of aluminum, and are pretty much out of consideration (and what I can spend now). I got basic quotes from 2 NJ builders that were recommended here.
Based on the tank Mack had put in "Mako," I told them I wanted 1/4" aluminum, 3 returns, 3 pick-ups, fill, vent, set up for sending unit, and epoxy coated. Both builders recommended an install on strips of 1/4" or 3/8" neoprene for air circulation around tank and some cushion. One builder puts tabs on the front and back of the tank to bolt it to the fore and aft bulkheads--I'm guessing you don't crank the bolts down so it still has a little flex/movement in it. Both will have lifting tabs.
I don't want to screw this up--lots of work and a fair amount of $ involved. Any suggestions? Am I doing something wrong/stupid?
My original tank looks perfect inside--kills me. I've thought about opening it up, reglassing, etc., but the downsides are it won't be CG approved, and if I screw that up...boom.
John F.
Based on the tank Mack had put in "Mako," I told them I wanted 1/4" aluminum, 3 returns, 3 pick-ups, fill, vent, set up for sending unit, and epoxy coated. Both builders recommended an install on strips of 1/4" or 3/8" neoprene for air circulation around tank and some cushion. One builder puts tabs on the front and back of the tank to bolt it to the fore and aft bulkheads--I'm guessing you don't crank the bolts down so it still has a little flex/movement in it. Both will have lifting tabs.
I don't want to screw this up--lots of work and a fair amount of $ involved. Any suggestions? Am I doing something wrong/stupid?
My original tank looks perfect inside--kills me. I've thought about opening it up, reglassing, etc., but the downsides are it won't be CG approved, and if I screw that up...boom.
John F.
Been there done that.
I went with a 3/16" Alum tank. Placed on Poly strips set about 18" apart,
they were first glued to base of tank. Neoprene I would think is too soft to lay tank on, but could be wrong (I am thinking neoprene like a wet suit)
I'm fairly certain they are consrtucting with baffles, to avoid slushing, I only mention becasue you didn't.
Yes it sucks to pull out a tank that looks perfect, one that should have lasted a lifetime and then replace with one with that has a life expectancy...
I went with a 3/16" Alum tank. Placed on Poly strips set about 18" apart,
they were first glued to base of tank. Neoprene I would think is too soft to lay tank on, but could be wrong (I am thinking neoprene like a wet suit)
I'm fairly certain they are consrtucting with baffles, to avoid slushing, I only mention becasue you didn't.
Yes it sucks to pull out a tank that looks perfect, one that should have lasted a lifetime and then replace with one with that has a life expectancy...
John, I'm facing the same problem with replacing the tank on my B31 in Deltaville VA. Can you give me some info on the ones you guys are getting. I am looking for the best replacement tank but don't think I can aford to pay the bucks for FB.
I found what I think is a good source for plastic and aluminum tanks at a place called Marine Connection (liquidators) in Ft. Pierce. I was there a couple of weeks ago and looked at what they had. It looked like they had over a hundred tanks to choose from but the catch is you have to use the closest matched size to what they have in stock. The price seemed reasonable at $3.00/gal for plastic and $4.00/gal aluminum. But I'm afraid the trade-off in going this route will be a loss of volume and I would prefer to maximize if I can. Any ideas from the faithfull would be a great help.
Glenn
I found what I think is a good source for plastic and aluminum tanks at a place called Marine Connection (liquidators) in Ft. Pierce. I was there a couple of weeks ago and looked at what they had. It looked like they had over a hundred tanks to choose from but the catch is you have to use the closest matched size to what they have in stock. The price seemed reasonable at $3.00/gal for plastic and $4.00/gal aluminum. But I'm afraid the trade-off in going this route will be a loss of volume and I would prefer to maximize if I can. Any ideas from the faithfull would be a great help.
Glenn
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Glenn
Be carefull with plastic tanks. I don't think they put baffles in them and over 100 gallons you will need baffles.
Check out Ronco plastics. http://www.ronco-plastics.net/
They build custom plastics tanks. Some are OEM. Give them a call. I am not sure if they build fuel tanks but they may be able to point you in the right direction.
Be carefull with plastic tanks. I don't think they put baffles in them and over 100 gallons you will need baffles.
Check out Ronco plastics. http://www.ronco-plastics.net/
They build custom plastics tanks. Some are OEM. Give them a call. I am not sure if they build fuel tanks but they may be able to point you in the right direction.
For what it's worth...I went with a custom sized aluminum tank from Patriot Marine in Forked River, NJ - www.patriotmarinefab.net . Paul is a nice guy and was real easy to work with. They were also very particular to meet my specs and the price was reasonable. I second the recommendation not to deal with S&P. Customer service was not their strong suit.
I used 1/2" closed cell neoprene strips, 5200 to the bottom of the tank (preventing any opportunity for water to sit b/w strip and tank). The closed cell neoprene does not have the galvanic corrosion concerns (like rubber), and the closed cell stuff is very supportive. It is not like the porous wetsuit material. Hope it helps.
I used 1/2" closed cell neoprene strips, 5200 to the bottom of the tank (preventing any opportunity for water to sit b/w strip and tank). The closed cell neoprene does not have the galvanic corrosion concerns (like rubber), and the closed cell stuff is very supportive. It is not like the porous wetsuit material. Hope it helps.
Keeping my hands full and my wallet empty.
Thanks for the replies.
Matt-- Patriot is one of the tank fabricators we're thinking about. I talked to Paul yesterday. Both fabricators (other its Atlantic) said to use neoprene. How did that work out?
Glenn- Jim and I are getting a little discount because we're getting two tanks--if you want to get a tank, I'm guessing we could all do a little better if we order three at once.
Sim- How did the poly work out?
The FB tank from R. Kidd is still more than 2X what I'll pay for an aluminum tank, and I just can't do that now. Wish I could.
If anybody that's been through this or is about to and wants to PM or call, feel free (work # is 202-512-8158).
Matt-- Patriot is one of the tank fabricators we're thinking about. I talked to Paul yesterday. Both fabricators (other its Atlantic) said to use neoprene. How did that work out?
Glenn- Jim and I are getting a little discount because we're getting two tanks--if you want to get a tank, I'm guessing we could all do a little better if we order three at once.
Sim- How did the poly work out?
The FB tank from R. Kidd is still more than 2X what I'll pay for an aluminum tank, and I just can't do that now. Wish I could.
If anybody that's been through this or is about to and wants to PM or call, feel free (work # is 202-512-8158).
John F.
Poly worked out fine, first I coated tank with Coal Tar ( worst part of project, epoxy coating by manufacturer is by far a better choice ) then used adhesive to bed the strips over that. I went that route after seeing some pictures from the tank installed in "Lightening Shack".
I choose Poly because
I knew there can be an issue with rubber and alum. may not have been an issue as I had the Coal Tar as as insulator. Neporene may hold moisture ( Coal Tar was again an insulator), may not be supportive enough ( someone mentioned closed cell which may be fine). Alum strips would not offer any give.
Poly eliminated those concerns, whether valid or not.
Thinking about it I did knock one strip off when installing, nothing really adheres well to poly but I glued it back on and proceeded with install. I knew this before I started but was not too concerned as all the adhesive had to do was hold the strips in place till the tank was seated.
As to install, I used nylon straps to wrap around the tank. This gave us a place to grab, hold tank, manuever tank when installing.
Poly worked out fine, first I coated tank with Coal Tar ( worst part of project, epoxy coating by manufacturer is by far a better choice ) then used adhesive to bed the strips over that. I went that route after seeing some pictures from the tank installed in "Lightening Shack".
I choose Poly because
I knew there can be an issue with rubber and alum. may not have been an issue as I had the Coal Tar as as insulator. Neporene may hold moisture ( Coal Tar was again an insulator), may not be supportive enough ( someone mentioned closed cell which may be fine). Alum strips would not offer any give.
Poly eliminated those concerns, whether valid or not.
Thinking about it I did knock one strip off when installing, nothing really adheres well to poly but I glued it back on and proceeded with install. I knew this before I started but was not too concerned as all the adhesive had to do was hold the strips in place till the tank was seated.
As to install, I used nylon straps to wrap around the tank. This gave us a place to grab, hold tank, manuever tank when installing.
John F,
The closed cell neoprene seemed to work fine. I'm only one season in, but it does not hold/absorb moisture like the porous wetsuit material. The closed cell looks like hard rubber, except it is does not have the galvanic corrosion concerns associated with rubber. We attached multiple 1/2" x 2" strips (running fore and aft) on the bottom with 5200 all around the perimeter of each strip. We used the 5200 around the perimeter of each strip (as opposed to a line of 5200 b/w strip and tank) to prevent any crevices b/w the strips and tank where moisture could get trapped. The fore and aft strips were each about 2' long each, not the length of the tank. We went for this approach with the 1/2" strips to allow for air flow around the tank. Additionally, I opted for the powder coated tank. It may not have been necessary, but you can drive yourself crazy reading all of the information and opinions online about tank installs. I tried to compile a few reasonable and economical approaches into one installation:
- no foam
- closed cell neoprene
- air flow around tank
- powder coating
These options made for the easiest install (the foam seemed like a hassle and has varied support from the info I found). The tank can be reasonably inspected and removed relatively easily down the road. I figure it should be fine for the next 10 yrs and I am comfortable with that. Like you, I cannot justify the cost of a FB tank to address the "forever" aspect of the tank. It's just a boat and I'm sure I'll find another reason to rip it apart before the tank fails.
The other piece of advice I would offer would be to opt for generator pickups and diesel returns to keep options open down the road for you or the next owner. Good luck!
Matt
1975 B28 FB
Toms River, NJ
The closed cell neoprene seemed to work fine. I'm only one season in, but it does not hold/absorb moisture like the porous wetsuit material. The closed cell looks like hard rubber, except it is does not have the galvanic corrosion concerns associated with rubber. We attached multiple 1/2" x 2" strips (running fore and aft) on the bottom with 5200 all around the perimeter of each strip. We used the 5200 around the perimeter of each strip (as opposed to a line of 5200 b/w strip and tank) to prevent any crevices b/w the strips and tank where moisture could get trapped. The fore and aft strips were each about 2' long each, not the length of the tank. We went for this approach with the 1/2" strips to allow for air flow around the tank. Additionally, I opted for the powder coated tank. It may not have been necessary, but you can drive yourself crazy reading all of the information and opinions online about tank installs. I tried to compile a few reasonable and economical approaches into one installation:
- no foam
- closed cell neoprene
- air flow around tank
- powder coating
These options made for the easiest install (the foam seemed like a hassle and has varied support from the info I found). The tank can be reasonably inspected and removed relatively easily down the road. I figure it should be fine for the next 10 yrs and I am comfortable with that. Like you, I cannot justify the cost of a FB tank to address the "forever" aspect of the tank. It's just a boat and I'm sure I'll find another reason to rip it apart before the tank fails.
The other piece of advice I would offer would be to opt for generator pickups and diesel returns to keep options open down the road for you or the next owner. Good luck!
Matt
1975 B28 FB
Toms River, NJ
Keeping my hands full and my wallet empty.
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