Manifold Bolts

[Jim M.]

I'm about to remove risers and manifolds from 454's. I think I remember hearing that the best procedure is to use an impact wrench. Is this correct? Does it help remove difficult bolts? Trying to avoid breaking any.
Thank you, Jim M.

[randall]

they are low torque bolts and should be fairly easy to remove. a little CX or rust buster soak the day before wouldnt hurt. id sneak up on em as these are bolts you dont want to break.

im sure bruce will give you the right answer but in changing my manifolds i was surprised at how easy they came out...not how hard.

[Harry Babb]

The most trouble that I have ever had with exhaust manifold bolts is the hex on a few of the bolts rusting to the point that even a 6 point socket will not grip them.

On my old Mercruiser I actually took a torch and flame cut the heads off then slid the manifold off of the remaining bolt body. Once the manifold was removed the studs could be removed from the cylinder head with a pair of pliers or vise grips.

Major rust on the bolt heads was a direct result of leaking risers and hoses.

Jo Ann gave me a set of sockets last Christmas that are unique in that they have hardened wires that grip the bolt......supposed to actually grip damaged and rounded bolts and nuts.

I have not used the sockets for their intended purpose yet but I am sure the day is coming.

Check it out

[img][img]http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r289 ... socket.jpg[/img]

Harry[/img]

[randall]

mike and i were trying to undo the drain plug on my boat. its a square head and in (was) a tough place as you needed a socket and a long extension with one swivel. nothing worked.....finally i tried this round socket filled with wires that push up where the bolt is and grip the sides......worked like a charm...first try...no prob. i have yet to use it again.

[Harry Babb]

round socket filled with wires that push up where the bolt is and grip the sides......

I don't have one of those sockets yet.......as I remember seeing them, one socket fits an aray of bolt sizes.....is that correct??

Harry

[CaptPatrick]

Harry,

It's called a Gator Grip Socket... Available in two sizes, one for 3/8" drive and one for 1/2" drive.

[randall]

thank you patrick. that is exactly it. i bought it years ago because the austin healey is full of oddball sizes but was doubtful of its actual usefulness.....guess what....it works.

when i was taking the fan off on the healey i broke a bolt. 17 threads per inch in some oddball width. NO supplier here or in england had one exactly like it. choice A...have one machined...choice B...get close with an 18 thread per inch bolt and install well lubed and carefully. no brainer.

[Rawleigh]

Are they bolts or studs with nuts? If they are nuts on studs you can take a cold chisel and carefully crack the nuts off of them.

[PaulJ]

I bought a set of Craftsman Bolt-Out Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set. I have used them to remove intake and exhaust manifold bolts with ease. I highly recommend investment in this tool set.

Paul J.

[Rawleigh]

I have a set of those, but I have not had great luck with them yet.

[Bruce]

They are 3/8 bolts- 9/16 heads.

Don't use an impact wrench just use a wratchet with 6 point sockets not 12. Use good sockest not ones from Wally World.

You can use impact sockets which are heavy wall 6 point.

If the heads are rusted away enough that a 6 point sae skips, get some metric 6 point and pound them on.

I've never failed to get a bolt out with this method.

If the bolt feels frozen, loosen then tighten back and forth and many times it will free it up.

One thing to look for if rusty, the exhaust outlet flanges on the head when chipping the old gasket off can also chip part of the flange.

If that happens it will create an uneven surface and you will have an exhaust leak.

The cheap fix is thicker softer gaskets that will fill a light void when compressed. If too much flange is chipped off, build up with liquid steel or the such and then after hardening file down flush.

Use new bolts on the assembly with the threads never seized. Check bolts torque again after 10 hours of running when cool.

[Harry Babb]

If the bolt feels frozen, loosen then tighten back and forth and many times it will free it up.

That's an excellent point......another trick is to smack the head of the bolt with a hammer.....a sharp heavy blow a couple of times will sometimes jar the bolt enough to help it loosen.

The worst situation can happen on the manifold but is more prevalent on aluminum is when the corrosion/rust builds up around the bolt inside of the hole and seizes the bolt body.

Either way there are more pleasant things to work on besides exhaust....its like plumbing in an old house! ! !

Harry

[randall]

harry....when my 2 inch well pump died i put in a new 4 inch well with a new submersible pump . probably tripled the water pressure. flip the switch....and most of the 80 year old plumbing in the house exploded. took a few days just to rip it out...history of plumbing...steel, lead, copper, pvc, and im not kidding .....garden hose. sweated a lot of pipe that summer.

[Harry Babb]

The original part of my house is 93 years old.........I feel your pain.

On the drain side we had some sort of clay tile pipe and then Cast Iron vent pipe.....the joints were packed with......what looked like horse hair, and lead solder.

Then you consider what plumbers charge....it almost looks justified.....then I take off my winey pants get my glue and crawl under the house.......

Harry

[randall]

my house is a 130 year old tool shed on concrete blocks. nothing like laying prone with the top of your head hard against a floor joist and your chin in the dirt and a torch in your hand. its like workin on boat bottoms....been there done that...not doing it anymore.

[Jim M.]

Thank you ever one for the advice. Glad I asked!
Jim M.